163 Lake Geneva Newport of the West Vol 1 1870-1920
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163 Lake Geneva Newport of the West Vol 1 1870-1920
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Lake Geneva, Newport of the West, 1870-1920, Volume 1. Overall history of the Lake Geneva Area and its people. Note: This is a copy of the book that is on the shelves at the Community Library. We are concerned both by the potential loss of the book for any of a variety of reasons and by the fact that it has a
substantial amount of data that is not easily searched. By the process of the digital archive, we protect the book and allow for Optical Character Recognition (OCR). Thank you to A. Kenjar for her consistent efforts to photocopy for the project.
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1920
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163 Lake Geneva Newport of the West Vol 1 1870-1920.pdf
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Linda Valentine Snippets
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Valentine
SNIPPETS of SALEM
163 - Lake Geneva,
Newport of the West
1870-1920
Volume 1
Contents: Overall history of the Lake Geneva Area and its people.
Note: This is a copy of the book that is on the shelves at the
Community Library. We are concerned both by the potential loss of
the book for any of a variety of reasons and by the fact that it has a
substantial amount of data that is not easily searched. By the process
of the digital archive, we protect the book and allow for Optical
Character Recognition (OCR).
Thank you to A. Kenjar for her consistent efforts to photocopy for the
project.
The citiations used to denote information found it the book should
reference the book itself, not this booklet.
o- 224 pages
Researchers should also refer to the Digital archives at the SALEM COMMUNITY LIBRARY for
more images in this collection or digital images of items photocopied in this booklet or related to
the topic ..
Compiled 9/2009 by L S Valentine Copyright©Valentine2009
3
8
10
15
18
Map Ze La1Jn
Fair Field
Linden Lodge
Rehoboth
Snug HaPbOl'
23 Butternuts
27 Btaektoft
31 Northuwodside
35 Gay Lynne
39 Green Gables
43 Bl>iaro>ood
45 WaZdeck
47 Wychwod
51 Villa Hortensia
54 Wadswrth HaU
57 Flowerside Inn
60 House-in-the-Woods
64 FoUy
69 Bonnie BPae
73 AZta Vista
79 North Shore FaPm
82 GZen Fer>n
85 J erseyhwost
90 GZen Mal'y
90 EZ Nidi>
91 CZoverbank
92 Ara Glen
95 Pazoker EstatB
98 Tyra>JZey
102 La1Jn GZen
105 AZpine ViUa
106 HeaZy Estate
110 Tre Hmh
113 DronZey
116 ViZ~a PaZatine
120 Oaks
124 Westgate
127 Echoes
130 ViUa ThekZa
133 Btaek Point
136 Linn Ba11en
136 Hi U VieJJ
139
141
143
146
149
158
161
165
168
171
Lefens Estate
AUview
AZoha Lodge
GZen Arden
190
195
199
202
206
210
210
Harrose Ha'Ll
Lake Gana1a
Loramoor
Fair Labm
Galewod
Sumachs
Negawni
SWinghurst
174 Gypsy Lodge
177 Idaho Building
181 CeyZon Court
Point Comfort
KnoU
Shadi>w HiU
Fair Oaks
Moorings
Younglands
.
----
115,:9
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DEDICATION
To: Bill, Billy, Scott and Tom
Copyright,1976
Lake Geneva Historical Society, Inc.
who forgave us when they were
out of clean socks
P!'lf~CI
With the publishing of this book, we hope to record for present and
future generations, the "Newport of the West" era of Lake Geneva, and to
provide an historically accurate, yet enjoyable book.
Although research was gathered on the entire lakeshore and the three
communities that surround it, Williams Bay,Lake Geneva and Fontana, this
first volume deals only with some of the major estates built between
1870 and 1920. Thus many names that are missing here will be featured in
Volume II; including such familiar ones as Oak Lodge, Robinswood, Angel's
Flight, Altruria, Ninneweb, House on a Hill, Pine Gate and others.
The vast majority of the material collected is from previously published newspapers and magazine articles, annals, public records and other
books, all listed in the bibliography. Of particular help, too, have been
the owners, past and present, of these estates, who willingly gave of
their time and knowledge.
In addition, unpublished family diaries and
letters, old photo albums and scrapbooks have yielded a vast amount of
resource material, and we are grateful to many who shared these with us.
We are grateful too, to a small group of supporters, including our
families, whose aid and encouragement are greatly valued.
Father Paul
Reczek, whose assistance in the pre-publishing procedures (typing, makeup and layout) was invaluable; Florence Patton, who is a living source
of history and support; Helen Kluge of "Webster House," and the staff
of the Lake Geneva Public Library, particularly Helen Brandt, whose
effort in tracking down and alerting us to possible leads was most appreciated.
While both the printed word and treasured family memories and anecdotes
are valuable sources, diligent research often, unfortunately, proved one
or the other incorrect. Thus, where necessary, we have tried to clarify
the incident; but we realize that despite all our efforts, errors will
still exist.
Although we understand that the old must give way to the new, pleasure
and joy should be taken in those remaining structures that have served
so well through the years and remain a vital part of our architectural
heritage and flavor.
Proceeds from the book are pledged to the Lake Geneva Historical
Society, Inc., a non-profit organization, to help in its endeavors toward the establishment of a museum and of educational programs.
The
Society's particular emhasis is on the lakeshore and surrounding communit·'lP~~'l who have a special and unique heritage, separate and apart from
the "':!'st of the county.
Contents
VIII.
v
Preface
the West End
Prologue
I.
II.
III.
IV.
v.
VI.
VII.
Montague tract
'round Kinney's
Point
Warren claim
the Narrows
Woodland Bay
Buckingham and
Meatyard tracts
Williams Bay
Maple Lawn S. Sturges, Porter
Fair Field B. Sturges
Linden Lodge Leiter
Rehoboth Carpenter
Snue Harbor G. Sturges, Borden
3
8
10
15
18
Butternuts Fairbank
Blacktoft Lester, McCrea
Northwoodside Strong
Gay Lynne (Roselyn Lodge, HillcroftJ
Gay, Johnson, Lytton, Boisot
Green Gables Billings, W. Mitchell,
Wrigley
Waldeck (Bendemere) Lackner,
Clowry, Glennon
23
27
31
IX.
130
133
139
x.
Lightbody's
Point
AUview Grommes
141
XI.
South Park
AZoha Lodge Drake
GZen Arden Wilmarth
Loramoor (Downer HaZZJ Moore, Countiss
143
146
149
XII.
Boyd tract
Fair Lawn Wacker
GaZewood (Casa del Bueno) Hately
Sumachs Boyles, Cox
158
161
165
XIII.
Buttons Bay
Negawni (Arrowglade, HoUy Bush)
Van lnwagen, Byllesby
SWinghurst Swing
Gypsy Lodge (SunnycroftJ Dow, Jones
Idaho Building Wallace, Lawler
45
47
wychwood Hutchinson
51
Villa Hortensia (Edgewood) Swift
Wadsworth Hall (StenningJ N. Harris, Shaw 54
57
Flowerside Inn Chapin
60
House in the Woods A. Bartlett
Folly Allerton
Bonnie Brae Withrow, Ryerson
Alta Vista Potter, Countiss, Pelouze
64
69
73
North Shore Farm Chapman
Glen Fern Sears
Jerseyhurst Crane
Ara Glen Cooke
79
82
85
92
Parker Estate Parker, Triner
Tyrawley Smyth, Pardridge, Llewellyn
Lawn Glen Meatyard, Beidler
95
98
102
Healy Estate Healy
Tre Brah Harbert
Dronley Chalmers
106
llO
113
ll6
120
124
127
near Black Point Villa Thekla (HighZands, Lindens)
Kochs, Fleming, Madlener
BZack Point Seipp
Lefens Estate Lefens
35
39
Villa Palatina (Forest Glen)
Weiss, Uihlein
Oaks Ayer
Westgate Allen
Echoes (Plesant Hill) Braun, Cox
XIV,
near Manning's
Point
CeyZon Court (Singhalese Villa)
Chandler, J. Mitchell
Harrose Hall Selfridge
Point Comfort Walker, Stillwell
KnolZ Wheeler
Shadow Hill Rumsey, Isham
Fair Oaks Norton, Keep, Doering
Moorings (Younglands, Stone Manor)
Dunlap, Young
168
171
174
177
181
190
195
199
202
206
210
Important Dates
215
Bibliography
217
Photograph Credits
221
:$..
Prologue
No white man had ever seen this "lake of sparkling water" when many
other Wisconsin villages were already established.
Early explorers
traveled the paths of least resistance
the waterways·
through the
heavily forested territory.
Early settlers followed the same routes
through the Great Lakes and down the rivers.
Our lake had no navigable
river.
Inland settlements developed as roads and railroads were cut
through the timber to logging centers and mineral regions. Our lake had
no commercial resources, hence no heavily traveled roads and no raiJ ..
roads.
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Our story begins about 1870; but only 40 years before, this area was
still the land of the Potowatomi Indians.
Their hunting camps were located on the water's edge and their Chief Big Foot led his people around
the lake by means of the foot trail which their ancestors had blazed.
White men were not welcome here. Even when the lands of the Midwest became government property by treaty, Big Foot and his tribe remained.
The tribe took no part in the Black Hawk War, drew no attention to itself and were therefore "overlooked" for a time.
): ,......[
But under the terms agreed upon at the Great Council of 1833 in
Chicago, the Indians were forced to cede the lands surrounding Lake
Geneva and to vacate within three years.
By late 1835 government surveyors had completed their work and men
from the East, anxious to cultivate and tame new lands, settled in the
area. For the most part they were farmers who appreciated the rich soil
of the lake region. Many purchased large tracts that ran from the shores
of the lake, up the high hills and back across acres of flat tillable
land.
The lands nearest to shore were of little value to these farmers
for too often stately trees and steep embankments prevented easy cultivation of the soil.
Following the Civil War, however, another group of settlers entered
the county and they did appreciate the hilly, wooded and barely accessible land near the water.
These were men who were helping to develop
Chicago as a market place for the midwestern farmers; men who were providing the financial and trade institutions so vital to a successful
agrarian economy; and men and women who were building a cultural center
with museums, schools and universities and with social programs that
would benefit all.
Such was the caliber of one of the earliest lakeshore residents,
Shelton Sturges.
And when he stood surveying the lake for a possible
site the summer of 1870, this is what he would have seen:
mile after
mile of dense woods broken only by a small cluster of homes marking
Williams Bay, and the village of Geneva (as it was then named) with a
population of barely over 1,000 and two small hotels to accomodate travelers on the stage line between Beloit and Kenosha.
In essence, the
lake shore must have presented a picture of peace and blessed quiet. Obviously this is what Shelton Sturges sought as he purchased the Montague
farm and laid plans
follow.
for his mansion
the first of many
11 tawn
that were to
So Shelton Sturges built his large mansion, and in the summer of 1871
he moved in with his wife and five children.
Quite possibly brother
Albert came up from Chicago too ... with his wife and three children.
Home begun 18 70
Property subdivided 1947
Private residence, 1976
Shelton Sturges (1871-1890)
H. H. Porter and heirs (1890-1947)
With typical 10-year-old logic Shelton Sturges, Jr. announced to himself, (for the remainder of the household was far too busy to serve as an
audience), "Out of sight; out of mind!" and slipped away to the security
of his new-found hiding place in the large maple tree near the shore.
His brothers, William and Harold, seemed to be using the impending
housewarming preparations as a perfect excuse for exerting their seniority by sending him on numerous errands, not a few of which had proved to
be fictitious.
"I'll show 'em!
Next time they want something done,
they' 11 have to do it themselves."
The children of Solomon Sturges photographed in the 1860's. Lucy and
Albert would own property here and Shelton, George and Buckingham would
build large summer homes on their estates.
Brother Buckingham took over the old Montague farmhouse with his wife
and three youngsters. What with servants, coachmen, nurses,
groundskeepers and the like, there was no more room at Mapie Lawn.
Brother
George rented a house in the village ... with his wife and four little
ones.
Their friends the Julian Rumsey family came along too, finding
space in the village at Mrs. Tamlin' s.
The natives had hardly become accustomed to all these new faces this
summer of 1871 before they were caught up in the excitement of the arrival of the first direct train from Chicago on July 26. Then suddenly
everyone was busy playing "host" to hundreds of visitors ... too busy to
notice that their lake wasn't really theirs anymore.
The weather was
hot and dry in Chicago ... more and more people came here to escape the
scorching city as news of the train spread. Another hotel opened in the
village; every spare room in every home was taken.
This then was the picture of the lake as that first season closed in
September of 1871; mile after mile of wilderness, two clusters of still
isolated houses, one summer mansion, and one tiny village which had just
witnessed its first seasonal boom.
2
Maple Lau:m in 1885, residence of Shelton Sturges.
In the sunroom Shelley's usually sympathetic older sisters were dil igently bent on their latest assignment, oblivious of his departure.
"Oh do let's finish this guest list before we're too exhausted to enjoy the party," Rowena warned as Helen appeared to lose interest. "Mama
and Cook are both about to have a fit worrying about ample food for all
these guests.
Let's see now, Uncle Buckingham and Aunt Susan, Uncle
George and Aunt Mary, Uncle Albert and Aunt Eliza, Uncle Ebenezer and
Aunt Lucy - heavens, we could have a houseful with just our own family
not even counting the Cousins!
The Julian Rumseys are coming; Martha
and Amelia are going to wear their new gowns, they say, and Juliette
3
says George will be home from college this afternoon - he's so handsome.
The Larabees have accepted, and General Ducat
his son is a perfect
Adonis- and the Charles L. Wilsons sent their acceptance .... "
"Don't forget Reverend and Mrs. C. A. Williams, although I don't suppose Mama asked those darling older boys at the school, worse luck,"
pouted Helen, who was beginningtoshare her sister's focus where certain
anticipated guests were concerned.
"Well, with the James Simmons'
he's the lawyer
and Dr. B.
Reynolds and his wife, Dr. Mary, Judge and Mrs. C. M. Baker, Rev. W.
Patton and General and Mrs. J. W. Boyd that makes at least 40.
Papa
sure to have asked a dozen more without remembering to tell Mama.
always does."
0.
W.
is
He
True to Rowena's prediction, Shelton Sturges had indeed been lavish
with his invitations and his good wife Frances, as always, was well prepared.
The housewarming was a great success that warm July evening of
1871.
Friends and family all agreed that MapLe Lawn, with its wide
verandas surrounding three sides of the house and its five-storied turret,. elegantly trimmed, was a most delightful summer home.
Solomon Sturges' sons had inherited their father's love of family,
devotion to country and intense interest in a variety of enterprises.
Solomon and his brother-in-law, Ebenezer Buckingham, first built a successful mercantile business in Ohio and the two families remained tied
there and later in Chicago where Solomon built the first grain elevator
and established the respected banking firm of Solomon Sturges and Sons.
After his death, the firm was re-organized by Albert and Buckingham as
Solomon Sturges' Sons. And so, for a time,Shelton, George and Frank were
part of the firm. The latter firm closed its doors in 1866 when all the
brothers "retired." But Shelton, only 38, and George, 10 years his junior, joined in the founding of the Northwestern National Bank.
George
was the banking wizard.
Shelton took a less active part, being mainly
interested in the mercantile trade.
Meanwhile, the grain elevator interests had grown. In 1871, asSturges-Buckingham and Company,they alone
stored 25 per cent of all the grain passing through the Chicago storage
market.
The Buckingham branch of the family, in addition to numerous
acts of charity, remains remembered today for daughter Kate's gift of
Buckingham fountain, still one of Chicago's most beautiful attractions.
However, affluence was not the attribute which endeared the Sturges'
to the populace of Geneva. This first family was anything but withdrawn
and aloof and, like many of the families we will meet in this book,
shared their lives and horne with guests and townspeople.
Shelton, who had risen to the rank of Major in the 24th Ohio Volunteers, became an active member in the village G.A.R. post. When he
built his large reservoir on the hill near Map~e &awn, with
its immense windmill to pump water from the lake, he had not only his own fire
protection in mind. )he use of the facility was offered to any party in
town who wished to run pipe to it.
Even the local news editor appreciated the gesture, commenting "We believe this to be a tolerable
4
substitute for the lack of a fire engine ... it might reduce insurance
rates." A large fountain shooting water 30 to 40 feet high was added in
1874. During the next few years a "summer-house" was built out over the
lake in order to catch all the cooling summer breezes and a number of
additions were made to Starboard Cottage,
the old Montague farmhouse.
Gatherings at Map~e Lawn were frequent.
In July of 1874, village
friends and acquaintances congregated on the grounds to witness the
ascent of a large balloon.
It was a festive occasion and the cause of
great delight despite the fact that history left no clue as to the fate
of the balloon last seen headed toward Milwaukee.
Through the years concerts were held on Saturday evenings for the
benefit of the Geneva Episcopal Church - sometimes for a specific cause
such as the pipe organ fund, but more often than not, simply as a general donation to the Church.
On such occasions all the family members
took part for these were amateur in nature.
The young ladies sang selections of church music and the young men and their cousins were
present to see that all attending were made comfortable. Guests arrived
from the town pier aboard the Sturges' elegant steam yacht, the Arr01,,,
When Shelton died in 1888, the local editor noted his great popularity
with all the Lake Geneva people, adding that he was "genial, liberal and
generous."
The entire town took part in his funeral and subsequent
burial in the Oak Hill cernetarr here.
The lovely estate, MapLe Lawn, its Starboard Cottage and the remaining acreage (of the original 90 acres, portions had already been
sold to Levi Leiter and George Sturges), were sold in 1890 to another
Chicagoan, Henry H. Porter, who had rented it several seasons.
Henry
had entered the railroad service as a station agent of the Chicago and
Eastern Railroad and eventually retired as Chairman of the Board, having
served as director of many other railroads, including the Chicago and
Northwestern.
His main concern throughout his career was the consolidation of railroads for he felt that a few major lines would be more
,beneficial to everyone than numerous short lines.
A man of action, he was quick to change things that didn't suit him.
An icehouse and several small cottages dotted the shore between his
villa and what is now Library Park, but within four months after he acquired the estate, he bought the land on which they stood and down they
carne!
Within the next three years Henry attacked the square tower of
Map~e Lawn making it round.
Many new buildings (probably the coachman's and caretaker's homes and additional greenhouses) were built on
the estate during this time.
Also built was a second large structure,
set slightly back and to the west, known as the Annex.
Undoubtedly
the growing number of guests of the younger generation made this necessary.
Ignoring a city ordinance stating that all new sidewalks on Main
street henceforth must be constructed of cement, he proceeded to lay his
of brick and it's still there today and certainly far more charming than
any of concrete.
5
That he and the children dearly loved the lake and the area is obvious. The Porter name is sprinkled liberally throughout the history of
the Lake Geneva Yacht Club during this period.
Both father and son,
Henry H. II (the latter being referred to as "Sr." after Mr. Porter died
in 1910) served terms as Commodore, and both won the prized Sheridan
Trophy.
But the men did not limit themselves to the leisure sport of sailing.
A new attraction drew their attention
golf!
Both men were instrumental in the forming of the Lake Geneva Country Club and George Isham
was elected the secretary of the new club.
The H. H.Porter Trophy established by the family is still awarded each summer.
George Porter meanwhile pursued activities of his own. He was one of
the early sponsors of the annual Mid-summer Fair which was initiated in
1904 and held on the grounds of Linden Lodge.
The fair provided support for Holiday Home, a camp established to provide an outdoor
experience for less fortunate city children.
George, as well as the
rest of his family, actively supported the Flower Shows that followed
through the years.
In 1947 the Porter-Isham heirs sold the estate to subdividers. Maple
Lc:o.un, though difficult to recognize after subsequent remodeling, still
stands.
The 11Annex 1 ' remains relatively unchanged, however Starbor:zrd
Cottage has been separated into two homes.
Of the out-buildings which
were converted to residences, the saddlehorse barn, yacht captain's residence and gatehouse remain.
MapLe Laum about 1900, residence of H. H. Porter.
It was here at
Starboa:J"d Cottage
that Katherine and George Isham
spent part of their honeymoon and many happy vacations before moving
into the main house.
Henry Porter IT and his bride, the former Mary
Isham Prentice, also chose the cottage for their honeymoon visit and it
was they who made many of the handsome additions to it through the years.
Even before his marriage, young Henry entertained during the winter
months for we read of an ice boating party enjoyed by Chicago friends in
January of 1889.
The young people included couples such as his sister
and her husband, George Isham;
the Gleason Thompsons;
Harriet Isham
Carpenter and her husband George (brother of Hubbard whom we shall meet
later) and the John Newells;
the C. H. Richardsons;
the Terwells;
Professor Stratton and his own brother George Porter.
The young ladies
included some of Chicago's fairest:
the Rumsey girls, Louise Prashen,
Margarie Day, Alba David, Alice Stone and some of Chicago's fine young
sons, Robert Cary, Victor Elting, Robert Wrenn, Frank Hawlie and two
out-of-towners, H. Elting of St. Louis and M. Druvale of New Jersey.
Brother-in-law George Isham joined young Henry in his enthusiasm for
the sport of competitive sailing and both of them traveled about the
Midwest to challenge other sailors of the Inland Lakes group.
This was
in a day of unmarked state roads (if roads existed at all) and of trailers, definitely of the home-made variety.
6
Public docks at Lake Geneva in the 1880 1 s.
., . J!"~~~~~~;~
Ui
J~~~r
..
Home bui 1t 1883
Partially burned 1940
Property subdivided 1951
Private residence 1976
_,
Buckingham Sturges and heirs (1883-1951)
The Buckingham Sturges family, while occupying brother Shelton's
Starboard Cottage for several summers, bought the property immediately
across Main Street.
In 1883 Buckingham built his new 15-room mansion
Fair Field and the original 20-acre site had been increased to a total
of 65 acres before Buckingham died only six years later.
His widow and
three children, none of whom ever married, continued to live there until
shortly before the last one died in 1955.
Here again, we note a genuine mutual affection between the family and
the local townspeople, who remember being invited to use the hillside
for winter sledding.
Many today still speak of enjoying long summer
afternoon
as children on the cool veranda of Fair Field; when Benton,
Kate and Lily Sturges told facinating talesofthe old days- always accompanied by pitchers of lemonade.
Theirs was a quiet, leisurely life,
which they delighted in sharing. Their home remained unchanged both inside and out during these many years and an unidentified visitor told in
a published letter to the editor of the local paper of his 1935 call.
Fair Field in 1883, residence of Buckingham Sturges.
speciman of rosewood as I had ever seen and in a remarkable state of
preservation.
I tried the tone and the action and could hardly believe
that so old an instrument could be so fine."
Asked about the age,
Miss Sturges replied that she didn't know when it was made but that she
did know it was purchased by her uncle in St. Louis in 1865.
And when
the visitor commented that the strings looked "new" she offered, "Oh
yes, when we moved up here in 1882,we sent it on East to the factory for
new strings - yes, yes, they are all new."
Time for Miss Sturges was a
relative thing indeed.
The original three-story structure was done in an American adaptation
of Queen Anne architecture, with the first floor constructed of field
stone and the second and third floors of wood.
A generous porch encircled half of the house and a modified tower reached skyward
four
stories.
A broad central hall ran the length of the building with rooms opening from either side.
The walls of the library and music room were
lined with treasured books and each bedroom had bookcases filled with
valuable first editions, many of them children's literature.
Benton, who was a championship golfer, had his many trophies on display in the main library, along with handsome family portraits. Some of
the mantels in the home were of elaborately carved mahagony, while
others were of oak.
Miss Lily died in 1938 and was spared the heartache of seeing all
that was near and dear to them go up in flames as Fair Field burned in
April two years later.
While Benton, age 73, and Kate, age 71, watched
from the lawn that noon, neighbors and school children formed a line to
pass what relics they could reach as the top of the three-story home was
engulfed in roaring flames fanned by the high wind.
Saved were a few
ancestral portraits believed to have been painted by Audubon,1200 books,
a few pieces of furniture and a Carrara marble bust of grandfather
Solomon Sturges. Lost forever were countless rarities: a personal letter from President Lincoln to Buckingham, the larger portion of the vast
library and, we assume, that beautiful rosewood piano.
Kate was overheard to comment, as the firemen desperately battled to control the fire.
"Perhaps we can have a bungalow from that south portion." And they did!
To the stone-walled first story were added a new attic and a new roof,
and the brother and sister moved back in. Before she died at the age of
86, Miss Kate generously gave those 1200 books to the local library.
With her passing, the story of the Buckingham Sturges family ends.
The remains of Fair Fietd may still be seen on the highest prominence
of the Sturwood subdivision.
what I thought to be the 'Elegant
He described being "set back to
to describe a beautiful 8-foot
Eighties' upon entering," and goes on
"for the finish was as pretty a
grand piano which impressed him most
9
8
Lindlan LOJdlge
Home begun 1879
Property subdivided 1923
Razed 1939
Levi Z. Leiter and heirs (1880-1923)
The flagman grabbed his railroad crossing post with haste for he had
almost forgotten the special due from Chicago this bright May morning of
1880. Within minutes the big, black Chicago and Northwestern locomotive
was coasting into the station, its connecting rods clanking and her
train of varnished mahogany passenger cars jolting to a stop. There was
a great deal of scurring back and forth between waiting carriages and
the train. A retinue of servants emerged from one of the cars, each bent
on completing a specific task. Two took positions on either side of the
steps of the elaborate car, stiffly awaiting the descent of the family.
wide depression which followed the Panic of 1873.
Quite naturally the
wealthy in Chicago chose to first replace their businesses and their
permanent homes destroyed in the Great Fire.
For many, dreams of elaborate estates here must wait.
But the crowds continued to come to our
lake nevertheless .... the rich and near-rich needed places to stay and so
the 70's were mainly a period of hotel building, "camp" establishment,
and the start of the resort-parks.
By 1880 prosperity had returned and
the great estate-building boom struck abruptly.
In the ensuing decade
30 new estates were added, one of the first of these was Linden Lodge.
Levi Z. Leiter
Linden Lodge in 1885, residence of Levi
Z~
Le'iter.
First to literally bounce down the steeply pitched steps and gracefully accept assistance from the conductor was 8-year-old Nancy Leiter,
followed closely by young Joe, 12, and Mary Victoria, 11.
While the
baggage cars were being unloaded, Mr. and Mrs. Levi Leiter, the nursemaid carrying the baby Marguerite (later nicknamed "Daisy"), and the
children's tutor alighted in rapid succession and settled into the handsome phaeton for the trip out to Linden Lodge.
The road was an old
familiar one to the family, for they had spent the past 3 summers here;
but now at long last they would move onto their very own estate.
Very little building took place
10
on the lakeshore
during the nation-
Levi Zeigler Leiter had arrived in Chicago in the mid-SO's and worked
his way up the ladder of success in the dry goods business.
So had
Marshall Field.
Perhaps it was inevitable that these two bright young
men should become a team, eventually buying out Potter Palmer's merchandising interests:
Field, the retail genius; Leiter, the financial
wizard. Field, Leiter and Company was phenomenally successful from the
start, despite the destruction of its spectacular new store during the
Great Fire. It was the first to "recover," opening temporarily in the
car barns of the Chicago City Railway Company, hastily purchased while
the ashes of State Street were still warm. And perhaps, it was equally
inevitable that the team should dissolve in 1881, for the two partners
differed greatly in business philosophy. However conservative Leiter may
have been in business matters, he was quite the opposite in his private
and social life.
Linden Lodge was amply supplied with servants
and
prominent houseguests were entertained frequently.
Photographs failed to do justice to the exterior of the cream-colored
brick mansion, but the local reporter was quite obviously impressed when
he wrote in Aug., 1879: "L. Z. Leiter .... is building a sununer residence
here to cost $100,000.
It will be in every detail the grandest home in
the state. The portico toward the lakeside is nearly finished, and from
11
area as well, acquiring hundreds of acres of farmland. "Retired" at the
ripe old age of 47, he enjoyed his dogs, sheep, and trout ponds at the
Fontana end of the lake.
But soon foreign travel proved more alluring
than summers at Geneva; life in the nation's capitol more tantalizing
than in Chicago.
Linden Lodge, which he continued to own and maintain, was all but abandoned by the family for years at a time as the
Leiters made the Newport - Europe - Washington, D.C. circuit furnishing
reams of gossip copy for Eastern newspapers.
Leiter barns and the 6-story windmill
stroyed in 1884.
before
its giant arms
were de-
i t one gets an idea of the magnificence of the place when done. The
pillars are done up in five shades of blue and gold leaf and the effect
can scarcely be imagined." Architecturally the home would best be classified as eclectic, but the interior contained 37 spacious main rooms,
not counting the host of baths with their gargantuan footed tubs, a
trademark of the house. In all there were 19 fireplaces.
Other stylesetting features included a great open stairway extending all the way to
the third floor and surrounded by railinged balconies; a ballroom on the
first floor instead of the more traditional third floor location; and
numerous subterranean passages, wine cellars and even "dungeons" (according to popular rumor).
On the spacious 37-acre grounds were fully equipped astronomical observatory, a dog cemetary and an authentic Dutch windmill fully 6 stories
tall with 40-foot arms.
Travelers along the Geneva-Williams Bay road
were said to be considerably relieved, when those arms were destroyed in
a windstorm in 1884, as they had frightened the horses causing more than
one serious accident. However, the windmill had been no idle decoration
and was used to grind feed, pump water into a large reservoir and even
saw wood!
So sturdily was it constructed that dynamite was required to
raze the structure in 1910. For a short time the problem of trespassers
was solved when Leiter purchased an $1800 Jersey bull, allowing it freerein of the grounds.
It was soon apparent that the animal was having
difficulty distinguishing between invited and uninvited guests,
let
alone the owner himself, and for safety's sake the beast was retired to
a well-fenced pasture.
Leiter, by 1880 the owner of large blocks of Chicago real estate
whose values were ever climbing, increased his holdings in the Geneva
12
Linden I,odge in 1903.
The Leiters' only son was given a million dollars upon his 1891 graduation from Harvard with the suggestion that he "see the world."
But
Joseph, pampered and over-indulged, perhaps, was soon bored by the mundane life of managing his father's holdings in the Mid-west and took to
more exciting sport such as an almost-successful attempt to corner the
wheat market in 1898.
No brash 29-year-old boy, however, was going to
outwit one P. D. Armour!
The latter threw millions of dollars into the
transport of enormous shipments of wheat through the ice-bound Great
Lakes to flood the market, coming out the winner with a $2.5 million
personal profit.
Papa Levi Leiter dashed back to Chicago immediately,
being forced to sell his prized property on the south east corner of State
and Madison to make up Joseph's multi-million dollar loss, (Carson,Pirie
Scott and Company
eagerly purchased the site and architect, Louis
Sullivan's masterpiece completed two years later still graces that
corner today.)
The Leiters' three daughters, following custom quite approved by
wealthy society in the 1890's, all married English royalty.
Nancy became the wife of Major Campbell, first cousin of the Duke of Argyll.
"Daisy", Leiter's favorite, became Lady Marguerite Hyde, wife of the 9th
Earl of Suffolk.
Mary Victoria outranked them all as wife of Lord
Curzon, who was appointed Viceroy of India just four years after their
wedding. And Joseph, after playing the role nf extremely eligible bach13
elor for many years (to the great delight of speculating news
later married Juliette Williams of East coast society.
lehcbcth
reporter~,
The Leiter heirs sold the estate to a subdivider in 1923 and, after
a brief service as an association guest house, tht. stately mansion was
razed in 1939. The area is today known as Lake Geneva Manor.
Home completed 1906
Razed 1954
Private estate 1967
Hubbard Carpenter (1906-1954)
Rosalie Sturges Carpenter smiled with pleasure as she stepped back to
survey the dining room.
The tables were set with sparkling crystal and
gleaming china and the soft candle glow was reflected in the highly polished silver. Boughs of holly and other Christmas greens had been used
lavishly in the centerpieces and about the room.
Humming softly, "Deck
the Halls," Rosalie set about lighting the tall candles in the wall
sconces.
The sudden sound of applause caused her to turn toward the dining
room entrance and there, dressed in matching red velvet outfits, were
seven~year-old Mary~Delafield Carpenter (called Polly by the family) and
five-year-old George Sturges Carpenter, on their very best behavior at
the prospect of being included at this adult party, the first in their
new home.
"Oh Mama, everything looks so special, I just LOVE Christmas,"
Polly ran to her mother, throwing her arms about her.
and
"Me too, me too," George echoed and close on his sister's heels threw
himself on his mother and sister.
Laughing, Rosalie knelt and gave each a generous hug as she announce~
"Now we must find your father, for the guests will soon be arriving."
First Mid-summer Fair, 1904, on Leiter grounds.
The honored guests at this gala holiday gathering were "every man who
had anything to do in the erection or finishing of the building" and all
were invited to bring their families. Some 85 sat down to dinner and
afterward each was presented with a gift, a memento of the occasion.
Even the host's father, George B. Carpenter, normally accustomed to attending little entertainments such as Mrs. Potter Palmer's reception for
President and Mrs. Grover Cleveland, came out from the city especially
for the occasion.
But the highlight of the evening was the viewing of
the "illuminated" Christmas tree in the spacious hall and leading the
chorus of delighted "ohs and ahs" were, of course, Polly and George.
Through the years, Rehoboth was to be the scene of many a festive
gathering but certainly none was more graciously given or more enthusiastically received than the first party held in the new house that
December of 1906.
The mansion was styled after a Devonshire farmhouse, constructed of
limestone and half-timber walls with the customary
"dog-trot," an oftmentioned feature of the home.
In traditional Devonshire farmhomes the
"dog-trot" is an open passageway in the center of the house through
which the animals pass on their way to and from the barnyard.
However
the Carpenter's version had glazing (glass) and screens at either end
and a tiled floor. The passageway thus became a wide entrance hall with
15
the main rooms aligned on either side.
led to the second floor.
At one end a great open sta1rway
Rehoboth nearing completion. 1906.
Approaching the home from the woods one viewed the lake right through
the "open" passageway.
It could and did prove confusing to an unfamiliar driver, particularly at night when the house was lighted.
Such was
the case one evening, when, after the wedding of Polly, a small fire
broke out in a pile of gift wrappings. Answering the alarm, the driver
of the fire truck was headed straight through the "dog-trot" but was
waved off at the last minute by a highly excited servant, who later com·
mented that the fire truck almost caused as much damage as the fire!
The blaze proved to be easily controlled and everyone, especially the
chagrined driver was relieved.
Residence of Mr. Hubbard Carpenter in 1910.
Hubbard Carpenter and his brothers had inherited their father's successful marine supply and manufacturing business (tents,sails, awnings),
and, under their management, the company continued to expand. Because of
his wife's love of the area, Carpenter had purchased a parcel of land
from the Snug Harbor estate of Rosalie's parents,
George and Mary
Sturges, after their deaths. Although the Carpenters were active in the
social and cultural life of Chicago, they directed most of their time
and concern to Lake Geneva.
Both took an active interest in the community and under Rosalie's sponsorship a number of local girls were able
to attend nursing school in Chicago.
The favorite room of the couple was a small study facing the lake, the
walls of which were lined with bookshelv~s filled with their favorite
novels and resource books.
Scattered about the study were microscopes
and other equipment pertinent to one of their pet projects involving the
study of the cicada or the seventeen-year locust which caught their attention when it surfaced in 1905.
(It continues to surface on its
regular schedule to this day.)
Rehoboth would remain the sununer home of the Carpenter family throughout the couple's lifetime. In 1954 the estate was sold to J. Rockefeller
Prentice and the house razed.
16
17
Snug Harbor
Home begun 1881
Burned 1957
Church Camp 1976
George Sturges and, ·heirs (1882-1919)
John Borden 1919-1923)
"I hearby propose and agree to convey to the City of Lake Geneva my
property situated at Block 32 of said city ... but said lands shall be
forever for the uses of a Public Park and Public Library."
(Signed) Mary Delafield Sturges
June 6, 1894
And so it was that the Lake Geneva Public Library came into being in
its much admired location.
The modern brick building, however, had a
dearly beloved predecessor (originally built in 1859) which had served as
the George Sturges summer home for a decade and which was included with
the property gift. And herein lies our story.
First residence of George Sturges.
for use as a public library in 1894.
The house
And then it happened!
Fanned by a stiff breeze from the southwest,
the small fire in that infamous barn in parched Chicago grew within minutes to immense proportions on the night of October 8, 1871.
Before
morning the Sturgeses, along with thousands of other terrified citizens,
were in the street .... their home, at what was then the corner of Huron
and Pine, already in flame. With what little they could carry they made
their way back to Geneva, back to that tiny house on Main Street so
recently deserted. By the following Spring, George bought the house and
surrounding S-lot property, and this became their permanent home during
the time that Chicago recovered and rebuilt.
The Sturges brothers'
Northwestern National Bank was also in the fire area and was replaced
first; then a new family home erected.
Is it any wonder that the heads
of these first families formed such deep attachments for Geneva and its
people?
Here their wives and children were safe and comfortable; here
the air was free of the smell of burned ruins and the noise of a great
city being raised from the ashes.
Here too they themselves could feel
stability when they found time to get away from their exhaustive responsibilities during those first two years of reconstruction.
The tidy
little house on Main street continued to welcome the growing family each
ensuing summer until June of 1882 when Snug Harbor was completed. By
then there were 8 children. Surely the adjective "snug" better depicted
the old home than the new, for Snug Harbor was 3 stories high and contained many generously proportioned rooms.
was donated to the city
Who could have foretold the event that was to change the lives of so
many at the close of that first season when the tourists, Sturgeses and
Rumseys, returning to Chicago, left the tiny village suddenly quiet and
deserted? The farmers here discussed the weather and the need for rain;
18
the townfolk, with time once more to stroll leisurely along the wooden
sidewalks or to sit on their porches, fanning themselves, no doubt greeted each other with some comment about the continued heat.
The entire
Midwest was dry as a tinder box.
Snug Harbor in 1884.
19
Architecturally the Sturges mansion has been labled French Chateau,
and there were indeed definite chateau or castle-like qualities in its
design and construction. Rock walls of the lower levels were thick as a
fort and a tower almost 5 stories tall dominated the lake side of the
home.
The tower base provided an interesting circular alcove addition
to the main living room and master bedroom above.
But the joy of all
joys to homemakers, then and now, was the provision for vast storage
areas throughout the house, and most particularly in every bedroom.
An
ornate step ladder, decorated to match the room, was provided for reaching the top-most shelves of the closets, making use of every available
inch allowed under the 15-foot ceilings. The original beds and dressers
were extra-large to fit proportionately with the spacious rooms.
Dressing tables were built in around the wash basins and each basin was
decorated to harmonize with the room's decor.
Mary Delafield Sturges
and one daughter.
Three other daughters married and moved away. Two
daughters remained life-long summer residents.
Ethel became the bride
of William F. Dummer, and it is the buildings of their 46-acre estate,
~he Orchards, completed in 1899, which are seen today atop Dummer Hill
JU~t west ~f the city limits.
It is still intact and faithfully mainta1ned by 1ts present owner.
Rosalie Sturges, whom we've already met,
became Mrs. Hubbard Carpenter.
And George, Jr. married Lelia Parker,
daughter of another lakeshore resident, in 1906, and for a few years
they summered here before moving to California.
Veranda at Snug Ha:r'bor in 1890.
The 20 "main rooms" of the home were all over-sized and many had individual fireplace~ some faced with hand-painted scenic tiles portraying
historic events, others painstakingly hand-carved to further emphasize
the beauty of the fine woods used throughout the structure. The central
hall was graced with an elaborate balustrade, the drawing room walls
decorated with murals, the comfortable library lined from floor to ceiling with handsomely bound books. Additional highlights of the main floor
were the elaborately carved oak panels in the music room and the glazed
breakfast room.
It was a home loved and enjoyed by all the family. In
fact Mr. Sturges discovered it was impossible to keep his children away
from Lake Geneva when warm weather appeared and thus the house was opened as early as April on many occasions.
He will1ngly purchased in
advance the 500 train tickets used by himself and entourage each year.
Located on what had been the westernmost section of Shelton Sturges's
original 90 acres, the estate remained in the family until 1919.
Area
natives proudly pointed it out to visitors who by the 1880's jammed the
excursion boats on the lake.
Their deep regard for the family stemmed
from the many gifts made by the Sturgeses to the community which had
welcomed them to its heart that day after the fire.
As long as there
were Sturgeses on the lakeshore, a steady stream of kindnesses poured
forth:
the fine pipe organ and vestry room addition to the local
Episcopal church, the preservation of the trees in the public square
(now called Elm Park), the presentation in 1894 of their first home together with its land for use as a public library and park.
Williams
Bay's first library and community center was originally the bowling allycrecreation building on the Snug Harbor grounds, a gift of the
surviving children. In order to move the structure to its new site some
5 miles distant, it was cut; the first section was moved across the ice
during the winter of 1907-8, but the second was delivered overland due
to an unexpected thaw.
Mary Delafield Sturges died in 1901 preceded by her husband, two sons
20
21
Buttemwts
Home begun 1874, burned 1875
Second home begun 1875
Razed 1955
Property subdivided 1955
N. K. Fairbank and heirs (1875-1955)
Adjoining the Sturges property to the west is a small peninsula known
to old timers as "Kinney's Point."
It was here in 1874 that N.K.
Fairbank and his wife, Helen Livingston Graham, chose to build their
summer estate, the Butternuts. It was built not just once, but twice,
for Fate intervened after the first season in the new home.
Snug Harbor about 1910.
John Borden, who leased Sung Harbor from 1910 until he purchased it
in 1919, was no stranger to the lake, nor was his sister, Mary. As mere
babies they had come with their parents, William and Mary Borden, to
spend the summer of 1887 at Shadow Hill on the east shore. The family
enjoyed it so much that they returned year after year.
When Shadow
Hill was sold, they leased Bonnie Brae and later the Knoll. For a short
time, William Borden must have contemplated building an estate of his
own, for he purchased the 40-acre plot known as Manning's Point, but
for some long-forgotten reason he never did. Young Mary took up that
strange new game called golf when only a teen-ager, tagging along to the
newly-built country club with her father. (Later she would be married to
Edward Spears, a British army officer and diplomat, and make her home in
England where she became a well-known author). Perhaps young John Borden
gained his sea legs, and love of adventure, as a result of.sailing about
Lake Geneva,exploring the yet undeveloped coves, which dotted the shore.
In 1908 he gained both a law degree and a wife, Ellen Waller.
By the
time he served as a naval officer in World War I he was already
a
The Borden family fortune was derived
widely-known Arctic explorer.
from silver bonanzas in Colorado with "fellow-miners" Marshall Field and
Levi Leiter, and in extensive Chicago real estate investments.
I~ October of 1875 the dread cry of FIRE! rang through the village.
Along with volunteer firemen, who answered the call for help from the
Butternuts, were many of the workmen who had spent the past year laboring to complete the house.
Servants joined forces with family and
villagers and soon an assembly line was at work passing pieces of furniture out of the burning structure. So successful were the attempts to
save everything valuable that even the heavily-carved mantel pieces,
doors and windows and the ornate balustrade and newel post were rescued
before the flames, which raged for three hours, engulfed the house and
reduced the 18-room mansion to smouldering ashes.
N. K. Fairbank was not a man to accept disappointment without counter
action.
From a penniless beginning he had risen to the very top as
Chicago's leading manufacturer of lard and oil refinery products and had
Snug Harbor was again sold in 1923, but Mrs. Borden and her two
daughters continued to summer at the lake for many years, leasing, oddly
enough, Shadow Hill. Ellen, the eldest, later married Adlai Stevenson,
twice the Democratic candidate for U. S. president; Elizabeth became
Mrs. Robert S. Pirie. Still later their mother would be married to John
Alden Carpenter, the famed Chicago composer and brother of Hubbard.
Since 1947 the estate has been known as the Covenant Harbor Bible
Camp and the mansion was used year-round to house large church groups
until it burned to its stone foundation in January. 1957.
22
Butternuts about 1885, residence of N. K. Fairbank.
23
devoted full time to the Relief and Aid Society during two and one-half
years following the Great Chicago Fire, helping thousands of homeless
and jobless rebuild their lives. Butternuts, named for the large grove
of butternut trees that surrounded the home, would rise again exactly as
it had been and work would commence the following Monday morning!
And so, armed with the original plans, 30 village workmen reported for
duty,prompting the local newspaper editor to comment, despite a nationwide depression, "No hard times felt here!" By late November
2,500
pounds of nails had already been hammered home, with more to follow.
Four generations of Fairbanks were to enjoy summers on this lovely 20acre estate with its 2-story foreman's cottage, ice house, coach barn,
greenhouse, small service buildings, tennis court and 5-hole golf course
(forerunner of the Lake Geneva Country Club).
The house was considered a perfect example of the "Eastlake" style of
mid-Victorian architecture. Except for a three-story turret and an addition to the third floor to accommodate a growing family, few changes
were made during the 80 years that the Fairbank family enjoyed the home.
Whenever new pieces of furniture were added, an effort was made to purchase articles of the same style and wood as those brought to the house
in the 70's and 80's. High ceilings and generously proportioned rooms,
off the great main hall, created a feeling of coolness and light.
Entrance hall about 1955 s shortly before the home was dismantled. Many
of the original furnishings salvaged from the 1875 fire still remained
at that time.
The Fairbank steam yacht, Cisco, was a familiar sight to townspeople
and lakeshore residents. While not the speediest nor the trimmest of
the steam yachts, she nonetheless faithfully served the family for over
30 years.
The Whisper, one of many Fairbank sailboats, was 8 times a winner of
the Sheridan Trophy,and the family were active members of the Lake Geneva
Yacht Club, where both father and eldest son served as Commodore.
N. K. was also an original stockholder in the Lake Geneva Country Club
formed in 1896.
Products produced by the N. K. Fairbank Company (Fairy Complexion
soap, Santa Claus bar soap and the famous Gold Dust Twins line) have
generally been credited to Fairbank himself; however, this was not the
case. About 1883, he sold his interests in the firm to the first cottonseed oil trust, agreeing to become its figurehead president in exchange
for the continued use of his name.
The substantial $5 million fortune
amassed by the time of his death some twenty years later came mainly
from railroad, mining and lumbering interests.
Yet money-making alone
would never have satisfied this human dynamo.
His offer to personally
donate $50,000 i f other interested men would collectively give $80,000
was the foundation for the establishment of the Chicago Club in 1869 and
N. K. served as President for 13 years. He was a generous contributor
to the Central Music Hall and when Rev. Swing was forcibly "retired"
from the pulpitofthe 4th Presbyterian Church, Fairbank was instrumental
in the formation of Central Church so that Swing might continue to serve
his enthusiastic followers.
On our lakeshore he is best remembered for
his intense interest in fish culture, his hatcheries and his voluntary
restocking of the lake's fish population, long before this became
a
State responsibility.
His Guernsey herds were prize-winners. With the
help of a large corps of faithful servants in the manor house, life ran
smoothly for the Fairbanks, their 7 children and their many nationally
and internationally famous guests (among them Carrie Jacobs Bond, composer of "I Love You Truly," and John T. McCutcheon, the noted cartoonist
whose "Injun Summer" is still reprinted annually by the Chicago Tribune.
Nathaniel Kellogg Fairbank (1829-1903)
25
24
Blacktoft
Kellogg, the eldest son, followed as master of Butternuts retaining
old family traditions.
Educated as an attorney, he led the fight for
better Chicago municipal government.
While on our lakeshore he and his
sister Heledshusband, Benjamin Carpente~were avid sailing enthusiasts.
Kellogg married Janet Ayer, who became a well-known novelist of the 20's
and 30's. Their daughter Janet made her singing debut with John Charles
Thomas, and often appeared at Carnegie Hall before her untimely death.
Home bui 1t 1881
Private estate 1976
But perhaps most revealing of the true nature of this talented family
is the reverence in which they held the chapel at Butternuts.
Though
the chapel was used often by the family and by employees for their weddings and christening, the family requested that no photographs be taken
of the room, even when the mansion was scheduled to be razed.
The year was 1885.
The sun shone brightly and the fresh air of that
June morning brought promise of approaching summer.
Two of the lake's
larger yachts,
Samuel Allerton's Time and John Lester's Reinette,
were straining at their moorings at the Lake Geneva city piers, as their
highly polished steam engines slowly turned over during "warm-up."
John T. Lester (1881-1891)
W. S. McCrae (1892-1921)
The Fairbank heirs maintained the estate until 1955 when it was sold
to local subdividers who razed the home. Part of the property is now
Geneva Bay Estates and part is Forest Rest subdivision.
Blacktoft about 1882, residence of John T. Lester.
The Allertons and the Lesters were seated in ~he large comfortable
chairs on their respective boats, but in varying degrees of relaxation. Both John Lester and Samuel Allerton were apparently listening
intently to their captains, as orders were issued back and forth between
the boiler rooms below and the decks above.
There were even a few
whispered conferences.
Obviously something was in the air, but the two
wives, not only good friends but sisters, were smiling and waving back
and forth.
wick~r
First clubhouse at Lake Geneva Country Club, built 1896, burned 1915.
26
Small crowds began to gather on the piers for, with the numerous consultations between the men on the boats, it soon became apparent that a
RACE was on! The course was set from the municipal pier to the Allerton
e'state the FoUy, and it was definitely to be a no-holds-barred race,
fo'r'Samuel considered it a point of honor to establish and maintain a
27
reputation of speed for his Time.
Never mind that now and then, too
frequently, perhaps, to suit Samuel, the Time was indeed beaten in one
of these impromptu races. And such was the case this bright spring day.
While questions had been raised about the seaworthiness of the Reinette,
previous to launching, she handily won the race by 80 rods ( a quarter
mile) and was referred to for a time thereafter as the "Greyhound of the
Lake," a title that undoubtedly galled Samuel.
mentioned in the papers for deals in the market.
In October of 1882 he
was involved in engineering "the big November corner" on corn. It was
further noted that he was a member afthe firm handling the highest trade
volume in the West.
But even if that report were an exaggeration,
John T. Lester was certainly a highly successful trader and upon his
death at age 47 he left an estate valued at well over half a million
dollars in cash and securities and more in real estate.
However, after a bit of lively exchange on piston size and steam
pressure and a few jovial asides, the couples headed from the Folly to
Blacktoft, the summer home that the Lesters had built in 1881.
They
probably had a bit of refreshment and no doubt discussed the possibility
of a rematch.
In 1892, two years after the death of John, Reinette married Wiley S.
McCrea (who had two children of his own, Henrietta and Snell) and both
families continued to enjoy the Lake Geneva summer home.
Blacktoft would probably have been considered modest in comparison
to Snug Harbor or Linden Lodge but it had one feature that has been
highlighted by many of its owners. Adjoining the generously proportioned
main entrance is a large alcove that has been used ~display collections
of the Lesters and other owners through the years.
BLacktoft 's buffet
room, a nineteenthcentury version of
the 11 den ."
In the late 1890's Reinette became quite interested in the Woman's
Suffrage Movement.
She served as President of the North Shore Woman's
League and with a group of other supporters took to the "campaign trail"
in September of 1910. Their purpose was to eXplain the reasons why women
wished to vote.
Lake Geneva was treated to a visit by the ladies before they embarked on their fall tour, and among the summer residents in
attendance were:
the S. B. Chapins; Mrs. Wilmarth and her daughter,
Mrs. Thompson; Margaret and Ethel Hately; Miss Kate Sturges and the
Mmes. H. C. Lytton, John Williams, tracy Drake, S. W. Allerton, C. L.
Hutchinson and R. Leland.
Mrs. McCrea also sponsored and supported a
series of study sessions on the issue in Chicago that fall.
Entrance hall alcove
where owners displayed
their various collections.
Black toft in the mid-90's, residence of W. S" McCrae.
The three Lester children by a former marriage, Helen (Mrs. W. W.
Booth), May (Mrs. Philip D. Armour, Jr., later Mrs. P. A. Valentine),
and Charles S. Lester were part of the young people's activities during
the summer months of the early 1880's.
The Allertons and the Lesters
often joined forces for a Fourth of July fireworks display and the resulting "spectacular" was enjoyed by guests and townspeople. In the fall
of 1886 young Charlie and Joe Leiter trooped off to Harvard and no
doubt spent a part of that summer planning their assault on that citadel
of learning.
Reinette was also intensely concerned with developing interest and
appreciation in the study of wild bird habits and their protection
and
of gardening and wild flowers. She spent the last two years of her life
trying to encourage the children and citizens of Lake Geneva to form
clubs to "preserve the wild flowers and the songbirds." Mrs. McCrea
offered her support and assistance in tangible ways. Charts and books
were sent to the school to help to interest the youngsters in preservation and love of all wildlife.
However, interests such as firework displays, children's activities
and boat races were not of prime importance to John Lester who was a
prominent and successful member of the Board of Trade. He was frequently
Reinette Lester McCrea spoke fondly of the profusion of the bluefringed gentian and the cardinal flowers she saw when she first came to
the area and she wanted to provide an atmosphere in which these flowers
28
29
could once again grow, untouched and appreciated.
As might be imagined from this energetic woman's activities, she had
a sharp eye for detail and the reality of a situation, and sometimes the
humor of it as well. It was evidenced in remarks she made in connection
with the formation of what was to become the Lake Geneva Garden Club.
Mrs. McCrea noted that the club would not be a rival of
the already
established Gardeners' and Foreman's Association, but should be managed in
connection with it.
"If it only gets the women out under the sky, it
will have accomplished a great need."
According to Mrs. McCrea,
Mrs. Leland and Mrs. Hubbard Carpenter were "almost the only women to
appear with a rake and a hoe and personally delve in their gardens for
the good of their plants."
Wiley S. McCrea shared her love of the outdoors and purchased offlakeshore farmland on which he set up a wildlife refuge for ducks and
other birds.
He was personally involved in the development of this refuge and she took great pride in his success in this venture. He
did
have an abiding interest of another sort since he was a charter member
of the Lake Geneva Country Club and a regular competitor on the links.
Reinette died in 1916,and in her will she left $5,000 for the erection
and maintenance of a fountain in the city of Lake Geneva "that man and
beast may have a cooling drink."
That fountain can be viewed today in
Flat Iron Park where the newly-refurbished figures of the Three Graces
stand atop the marble base.
She further directed in her will that the
following names be inscribed on the fountain in memory of her friends:
Emma B. Dunlap, Agnes C. Allerton, Mary D. Sturges, Helen L. Fairbank,
Mary H. Strong, Mary T. Leiter, Martha T. Rumsey, Dora T. Bartlett,
Ottilie M. Wacker and Mary L. Leland.
lcrth•ccdside
Home built 1876
Private estate 1976
Henry Strong and heirs (1876-·1921)
Safe, for the moment, from his Grandfather Strong's sharp eye 12-year
old Ned Sheldon fell into the rattan chair and plopped his feet on the
porch railing.
Thwarted by his Grandfather's most recent dictum, Ned had been refused permission to take the small sailboat out by himself and not wishing to share the experience with hholder brother, Ted, he had been left
to walk the shore, looking for some allies and perhaps some sympathy.
Musing on the injustice of it all, Ned's eye rested upon the Strong
steam yacht, the Alme, gently rocking to and fro at the main pier.
The longer he looked, the more convinced he became that the Atme
would prove to be the perfect refuge from the bustling adult world and
more particularly from his grandfather.
Gently he dropped his feet to
the porch floor and. looking carefully about, decided on a course of
action. Firsthewould find his cousin Elsa Denison and, his sister Mary,
both willing cohorts in any of his undertakings, and then together they
would map out a plan to use the Alme as a hideway.
Ned looked carefully toward the main house, Northwoodside.
It never hurt to check
on Grandfather's whereabouts, for it was agreed among the grandchildren
and their close comrades, that very possibly Grandfather Strong had more
than one pair of eyes with which to keep track of them and their adventures.
While General Henry Strong did not possess more than the usually
alotted one pair of eyes, he did possess specific qualities which commanded the respect of all who came in contact with him. Born in Scotland
where his father was U. S. Consul General, he later attended the University of Michigan before transferring to the University of Rochester in
1852.
Two years later he married Mary Halsted and after studying medicine and practicing for a time, he turned to the study and practice of
law.
Blacktoft~ originally design~d by architect W. L. B. Jenney who would
later create the beautiful Horticulture Building of the Columbian Expo~
si tion, is still maintained as a private residence and estate today.
One of Strong's early clients was the Chicago, Burlington ~nd Quincy
Railroad and not long after his contact with them, he entered the railroad construction business on his own.
It was during the building of
the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad lines West that he received
the title "General", earned while protecting the railroad's building
operations from Indian attacks. The title stuck.
General Strong was soon selected to serve as President of the
Atchison,, Topeka and Santa Fe and remained interested in railroads and
their development the rest of his life.
In later years he also dealt
very successfully in real estate and at one time or another the Strongs
maintained homes in Washington, D. C., Mont Cito, California, and
But after 1876 the Lake Geneva home was considered the perma-
30
31
nent legal address.
With such a full and varied background he was prepared to meet the
world on many fronts.
He was a frequent contributor to the North
Ameriaan Review, a highly respected literary magazine, and he represented
the State of Illinois at a number of official functions. The General was
also able to relax, and as a charter member of the Lake Geneva Country
Club, he was an active member and often played 54 holes of golf a day even'at the age of 81! The General Strong Trophy was established by him
during his lifetime for "those 49 and over" and is still presented annually by the club.
Northwoodside, the lovely Swiss chalet with its steeply pitched roofs
and picturesque setting, was the center of family activities during the
summer months.
In the late 90's Janet and Gordon, the two younger
Strong children, filled the horne with their friends, and then later with
their families.
The Strong's oldest daughter Else returned from Denver
each summer with her family and soon Northwoodside was bursting at the
seams.
So, soon after the marriage of Mary Strong to Theodore Sheldon,
a young Chicago Lawyer, the General built a cottage for them on the
lakeshore near the main house.
It was here that the three Sheldon
It was another avenue of expression, however, that provided the
greatest relaxation for this man of myriad talents.
He was a highly
accomplished organist and the General gave informal Saturday afternoon
recitals. Townspeople, children, guests and family were all welcome to
attend these concerts and were transported to and from the city pier aboard his yacht, the Alme.
The concerts were held in a separate
cottage built with special accoustic properties to house his great pipe
organ.
The organ instrument was one of the largest pipe organs in the
state. A bedroom for the General's own use adjoined the large room containing the organ so that he could play at any hour of the night
without disturbing family or visiting guests.
General Strong's will reflected his consideration of others and his
high regard for the education of the young.
He directed that "six percent of the net income of the estate ..• shall constitute an education
fund." It was to be divided among western and southern state universities
and schools and not more than $600 a year was to go to any one student,
a fair sum in those day~.
At least two of the beneficiaries must be
residents of Walworth County, the will further stated.
Sheldon cottage at Nort'h.zuoodside about 1885.
children, along with their cousins, spent happy summer hours.
Although
Mrs. Strong died in 1904 and the General in 1911, the family maintained
the property until 1921.
No'l"thbJoodeids about 1885, residence of General Henry Strong.
Ned Sheldon's ultimate career as a playwright began in 1908, a year
after his graduation from Harvard, with the Broadway success "Salvation
Nell" starring the noted actress Mrs. Fiske.
However, when he was only
34 he was permanently bed-ridden with a progressive crippling form of
arthritis and was 1mable to continue writing.
In 1920 he completed the
last play of which he would be sole author, "The Lonely Heart."
Especially notable of his many triumphs during this brief span were ''The
Jest", written for his good friends John and Ethel Barrymore, and "The
Romance."
The latter opened all over the world in 1916, ran 1049 performances in London, was revived again and again in the U.S. and starred
Greta Garbo in one of its two screen adaptations.
It was last revived
as the musical ''My Romance" in 1948 with a score by Sigmund Romberg.
33
Ga1L1DDI
Ned's mother sold Northwoodwhere he would remain
until he died 25 years later, never leaving his bed again.
When all hope of his recovery was lost,
side (1921) and moved him and herself to New York
Two childhood friends from Lake Geneva days re-entered his life about
this time and despite his own affliction he was able to help them.
The
first, Henrietta McCrae Metcalf (daughter of W. S. McCrae of Blacktoft)
was faced with a sobering family crisis, which she was able to weather
with his counsel.
Several years later Margaret Ayer Barnes (sister of
Mrs. Kellogg Fairbank of Butternuts) was undergoing a series of spinal
operations, the result _of an auto accident, and Ned encouraged her to
begin the writing career which culminated in her Pulitzer Prize-winning
novel Years of Groce in 1931. By then Ned himself was completely blind
and the slightest movement brought excruciating pain.
Home begun 1882
Private estate 1976
John Johnston Jr. (1883-1902)
Henry C. Lytton (1902-1915)
Emile K. Boisot (1915-1920)
Among his closest friends were Somerset Maugham, Constance Collier,
Alexander Woollcott, Edith Wharton, Mrs. Pat Campbell and the Charles
MacArthurs (Helen Hayes).
The bond with the latter couple was a result
of mutual artistic appreciation as well as family ties, for Ned's sister
Mary had married Alfred MacArthur, a brother of Charles.
The families
were close through the years.
No:rtJw;oodside was the 0. N. Tevander family estate until the mid-60's
and has since been incorporated into the Wrigley complex.
Both of the
original homes still remain.
Gay Lynne in 1884, residence of John Johnston, Jr.
Like Topsy who just "grew and grew and grew", the home pictured began
asasmall hunting lodge for the budding young architect, Henry Lord Gay,
and eventually attained the status of a major estate.
R. T. Crane's first Passaic (with its clerestory ceiling ) and George
Walker's ever present Ethel Ma:ry, nicknamed the "Green Rabbit/' flanking an unidentified yacht at the Country Club before 1900,
Mr. Gay set up his office in Chicago in 1867 -- just in time for the
re-building boom following the Great Fire. He was awarded 2nd honorable
mention in the worldwide competition to select a design for King Victor
Emmanuel's tomb in Rome in 1882, for which he and some 292 other archtects spent 2 years studying, drawing plans and constructing models. By
the late 80's his full time in Chicago was devoted to teaching and overseeing the affairs of the Builder's &Trader's Exchange, by then numbering over 500 members, which he had organized.
The few architectural
assignments he accepted at this time seemed to be almost exclusively at
Lake Geneva; chief among these were the Folly, Maple Lawn, Negawni,
Villa Palatine, Ceylon Court, and Stone Manor.
Meanwhile, unable to
find the time to enjoy his own hunting lodge here, he sold the property
to his sister and brother-in-law, John Johnston, Jr., in 1881 and supervised the construction of their Gay Lynne upon his return from Europe.
This presumably utilized the lodge as its core.
35
John Johnston was a graduate of Yale and Albany Law schools but had
retired from legal work to manage his father's considerable Chicago real
estate business when the latter became ill soon after Gay Lynne was completed. One of the couple's two sons, Henry Lord, died in early childhood and in his memory (and also that of his grandfather Charles Henry
Gay) the Johnstons gave the pair of German-made stained glass windows,
still evident today, on either side of the sanctuary of the Episcopal
church in Lake Geneva. Their other son, also a John, spent his formative
years on the lake and entered the Colorado School of Mines in the late
90's.
tossed them into the State Street traffic below.
People took notice,
all right. His two oldest sons, George and Walter, joined the firm upon
reaching manhood.
In 1929 Mr. Lytton retired, but after the death of
the last of his sons four years later, he was back running the store.
He died in 1949 just three months shy of his 103rd birthday.
His zest
for life was apparent from the comment he made upon meeting an old employee, "Jake, this is too good a world to leave."
During the Lytton tenure the main house was further enlarged and
given an elaborate Italian waterfront treatment. Graceful, sweeping
Mr. Johnston, anticipating a boom in land values near Williams Bay
with the extension of Chicago and Northwestern Railroad spur, began buying large tracts of property in the late 1880's, among them the 160-acre
Buckingham, 121-acre Meatyard property and home, an 87-acre Forest Glen
parcel and 175 acres surrounding the YMCA camp.
In 1893 he donated 53
acres to the University of Chicago as the site for the Yerkes Observatory. A few years later ill health prevented him from spending time at
the lake and the home was rented and finally sold in 1902 to Henry C.
Lytton,the debonair Chicago merchant who had founded his very successful
store, known originally as the Hub, only 15 years earlier.
A new name
Roselyn Lodge replaced the old name of Gay Lynne.
If there had been a "best dressed" rating in those days, both Mr. and
Mrs. Lytton would have carried away all the honors. Even in 1946 at the
age of 100 Mr. Lytton looked and dressed like a younger man and reported
to his office as usual.
Henry C. Lytton 1 s Italian waterfront treatment of 1902
Henry C. Lytton (1846-1849).
Fresh from an Indianapolis triumph, in which he h~d changed a failing
dry goods firm into a debt-free $350,000 business in only 3 years, Henry
C. Lytton arrived in Chicago and founded the Hub in 1887.
To advertise
the opening and at the same time make his name known, he took armfuls of
brand new overcoats from their racks, climbed to the store roof and
~
0
stairways led from atop the boathouse down to the piers and his new
steam launch, the Roselyn. Further additions included a huge greenhouse,
a model horse barn, a dairy barn and poultry house. Mrs. Roselyn Lytton
took a fancy to pigeon-raising, while Mr. Lytton specialized in white
Wyandottes, providing unbeatable competition for J. H. Moore, F. L.
Chapman, and the Black Point Poultry Farm in 1908. With all the changes
and an emphasis on the farm activities, the estate was re-named Roselyn
Lodge. That their efforts were rewarded has been duly noted, for in the
1908 Poultry show their white Wyandottes took numerous first, second and
third place awards.
Following Mrs. Lytton's death and the tragic hunting accident in
which their youngest son, Henry Beaumont Lytton, was killed, the estate
was sold in 1915 to Emile K. Boisot who headed the bond and foreign ex37
John Johnston was a graduate of Yale and Albany Law schools but had
retired from legal work to manage his father's considerable Chicago real
estate business when the latter became ill soon after Gay Lynne was completed. One of the couple's two sons, Henry Lord, died in early childhood and in his memory (and also that of his grandfather Charles Henry
Gay) the Johnstons gave the pair of German-made stained glass windows,
still evident today, on either side of the sanctuary of the Episcopal
church in Lake Geneva. Their other son, also a John, spent his formative
years on the lake and entered the Colorado School of Mines in the late
90's.
tossed them into the State Street traffic below.
People took notice,
all right. His two oldest sons, George and Walter, joined the firm upon
reaching manhood.
In 1929 Mr. Lytton retired, but after the death of
the last of his sons four years later, he was back running the store.
He died in 1949 just three months shy of his 103rd birthday.
His zest
for life was apparent from the comment he made upon meeting an old employee, "Jake, this is too good a world to leave."
During the Lytton tenure the main house was further enlarged and
given an elaborate Italian waterfront treatment. Graceful, sweeping
Mr. Johnston, ant1c1pating a boom in land values near Williams Bay
with the extension of Chicago and Northwestern Railroad spur, began buying large tracts of property in the late 1880's, among them the 160-acre
Buckingham, 121-acre Meatyard property and home, an 87-acre Forest Glen
parcel and 175 acres surrounding the YMCA camp.
In 1893 he donated 53
acres to the University of Chicago as the site for the Yerkes Observatory. A few years later ill health prevented him from spending time at
the lake and the home was rented and finally sold in 1902 to Henry C.
Lytton,the debonair Chicago merchant who had founded his very successful
store, known originally as the Hub, only 15 years earlier.
A new name
Rose~yn Lodge replaced the old name of Gay Lynne.
If there had been a "best dressed" rating in those days, both Mr. and
Mrs. Lytton would have carried away all the honors. Even in 1946 at the
age of 100 Mr. Lytton looked and dressed like a younger man and reported
to his office as usual.
Henry C. Lytton's Italian waterfront treatment of 1902.
Henry C. Lytton (1846-1849).
Fresh from an Indianapolis triumph, in which he h&d changed a failing
dry goods firm into a debt-free $350,000 business in only 3 years, Henry
C. Lytton arrived in Chicago and founded the Hub in 1887.
To advertise
the opening and at the same time make his name known, he took armfuls of
brand new overcoats from their racks, climbed to the store roof and
~
stairways led from atop the boathouse down to the piers and his new
steam launch, the Rose~yn. Further additions included a huge greenhouse,
a model horse barn, a dairy barn and poultry house. Mrs. Roselyn Lytton
took a fancy to pigeon-raising, while Mr. Lytton specialized in white
Wyandottes, providing unbeatable competition for J. H. Moore, F. L.
Chapman, and the Black Point Poultry Farm in 1908. With all the changes
and an emphasis on the farm activities, the estate was re-named Rose~yn
Lodge. That their efforts were rewarded has been duly noted, for in the
1908 Poultry show their white Wyandottes took numerous first, second and
third place awards.
Following Mrs. Lytton's death and the tragic hunting accident in
which their youngest son, Henry Beaumont Lytton, was killed, the estate
was sold in 1915 to Emile K. Boisot who headed the bond and foreign ex37
Green Gables
Home built 1892
Razed 1955
Private estate 1976
C. K. G. Billings (1892-1906)
W. H. Mitchell (1906-1911)
William Wrigley Jr. and heirs (1911-present)
Perhaps no other major piece of property, changed hands as frequently
as Green GabZes, before 1911, when it was purchased by Witliam Wrigley,
Jr. whose family still owns and maintains the property.
Residence of Arthur Leath about 1926.
While all of the owners were both illustrious and industrious, credit
for establishing Green GabZes, as a major estate, must in all honesty
fall to C. K. G. Billings.
Earlier owners General A. C. Ducat and
Edmund Burke had been content with modest cottages erected at random locations; and J. M. Horton made an effort to consolidate these humble
change departments of Chicago's First National Bank. In 1920 Mrs. Boisot
sold the property, now re-named HiZZaPO[t, home and yacht to Arthur
Leath, the Elgin, Illinois, furniture chain owner.
Hillcroft was purchased by Philip K. Wrigley in 1927 and the home
remained their summer lakeshore residence until 1965 when the new Green
Gabl-es was completed.
The property and home are still a part of the
Wrigley complex.
Cottages of E. Burke about 1885.
These would later be consolidated as
Blythe Bonnie by J. M. Horton in 1890.
structures into his
year ownership.
Queen Anne-style
BZythe Bonnie
during
his three
But with the arrival of Mr. Billings late in 1892, carpenters' hammers
beat a steady tatoo until little if any trace of the previous structure
was discernable.
Although the resulting exterior was indeed "conglomerate" {the variety of rooflines gave it away), the interior was
considered extremely handsome for its day. Added to the well-landscaped
grounds in February, 1894; was the Norwegian building from the World's
Columbian Exposition, an authentic replica of an earlier Norse church
39
38
built entirely of hand-hewn, native woods put together with wooden pegs.
Three years later over a hundred workmen were again gathered on the
grounds to change the course of a small stream in order that the main
house might receive yet another addition.
Cornelius Kinsland Garrison Billings(C. K. G. to his host of friends)
became president of the People's Gas Light &Coke Company in 1887 at the
sagacious age of 25, an event coinciding conveniently with his father's
retirement from the same position.
Inheriting a $20 million fortune
upon the latter's death 10 years later, C. K. G. soon gained national
repute as Chicago's "Millionaire Sportsman", with his fondness for
automobiles, yachts and parties being exceeded only by his insatiable
fondness for trotters.
By 19ll his horses (especially "Lou Dillon" and
"Uhlan") had broken 41 World's Amateur records in harness racing, earning
Billings the title of "American Horse King" abroad, as in most cases, he
handled the reins himself.
Mrs. Billings was the daughter of Andrew McLeish of Carson, Pirie,
Scott and Co., and sister of the noted author Archibald McLeish.
Her
marriage to C. K. G. in 1885 was a notable high society affair in
Chicago. At Green GabLes the couple entertained lavishly, making full
use of the new clubhouse and bowling alley buildings,added to the estate
in 1898, the private tennis court, their speedy iceboat, and their steam
yacht GrayLing (which never quite attained the speed Billings expected
of it). The town citizens were treated to the sight of his many luxurious foreign automobiles (one French model cost $11,000!) spinning
through their streets and of his masterful handling of the six magnificent horses pulling his tally-ho.
Estate of C. K. G. Billings soon after he became its owner in 1892.
Norwegian Building has recently been erected on the right.
The
Early in 1906 the estate was purchased lock, stock and barrel by
William H. Mitchell, "the Nestor among Chicago bankers and probably the
oldest banker in active service in the world," as news accounts stated
when he died at the age of 93 four years later. His son, John J. Mitchell
owned Ceylon Court across the lake.
Green Gables as it appeared when Mr. Billings sold the estate in 1906.
The Norwegian Building from the World 1 s Fair of 1893 which was a lakeshore landmark almost 40 years.
Now located at Little Norway village
near Mt. Horeb, Wisconsin.
40
41
And then, after having spent several summers in rented Glenwood
Springs cottages at the west end of our lake in the late 1890's,
William Wrigley, Jr. recurned here with his family, purchasing Green
Gables in 1911.
much of the breeder's success, and many a time Wrigley refused offers of
purchase.
Mr. Wrigley had arrived in Chicago in 1891 after a highly successful
but unchallenging career with his father's soap company in Philadelphia.
He immediately organized William Wrigley Jr. &C~ to sell soap and later
added baking powder to its line. Wrigley was a great believer in the
U$e of premiums to help push his products and among the early ones were
umbrellas and cookbooks.
But in 1892 he bargained with the Zeno
Manufacturing Company for use of its gum (again as a premium) and so
successful was the gum that it became more popular than the product it
was supposed to help sell. Wrigley wisely decided to devote his energies
and investment dollars,to the manufacture of gum. By 1911 he had bought
out the Zeno company and the rest of the story is merchandising history.
But the development of the William Wrigley Company was not accomplished by mere chance. Wrigley had some defllUte ideas on the philosophy
of salesmanship and one of his cardinal beliefs dealt with promotion.
"Advertising is pretty much like running a furnace.
You've got to keep
Once you stop stoking, the fire goes out.
It's
on shoveling coal.
strange some people's imaginations can't compass that."
Advertise he did, and his company became the largest manufacturing
concern of its kind in the world and ranked as one of America's leading
advertisers during his lifetime.
Wrigley's business philosophy ran deeper than mere concern for profits.
He felt that a successful company was committed to provide a fair
wage for its employees (and in particular to be supportive through periods of recession.)
As an example, in November of 1916 Wrigley voluntarily raised the wages of all employees, both foreign and domestic,
by 10 per cent.
During the war years the company rarely laid off workers in spite of the fact that sugar shortages forced a cutback in producation.
Wrigley pursued his hobbies with the same drive and enthusiasm that
he used in business. By 1919 he was sole owner of Santa Catalina Island
and he was deeply interested and involved in its proper development. At
about the same time he acquired controlling interest in the Chicago Cubs
and, with his usual persistence, set about preparing for a league championship.
The pennants of 1929, 1930, and 1931 were cause for great
rejoicing.
Green Gables shortly before it was razed in 1955.
Green Gables, the main home with its numerous additions, provided
plenty of room for the hospitality for which the Wrigleys were
well
known. Both their children, Philip and Blanche, and later grandchildren
and great-grandchildren enjoyed the spacious home as a base for summer
activities with friends.
A spectacular architectural feature of the mansion was the handsome
open staircase that wound four stories to the top of the tower.
From
this vantage point views of the lake and surrounding countryside could
be appreciated.
The broad stairs leading to the second floor landing were vented, and
The
music from the concealed organ filtered through the openings.
magnificent Aeolian-Skinner organ is still preserved today, but in
another location. It delighted guests for many years.
In 1955 Green Gahles was razed by the family and ten years later the
Philip K. Wrigleys built a handsome brick home, basically of Georgian
design, on the site of the original, Their former summer home Hilloroft
remains a part of the estate"
Within months of the purchase of Green Gables Wrigley had undertaken a considerable building and remodeling project. A new boat house,
a large poultry house and a gateway and house at the entrance were added
using the new architectural lines of the main house.
Other buildings
not in harmony were torn down and extensive landscaping was completed.
The Wrigley farms on the estate were noted for their outstanding
herd of Poland China hogs, and sale after sale testified to the farm's
great reputation.
The prize boar, the "Clansman," was responsible for
42
In 1881 John Williams purchased a 13-acre tract between the Burke and
Gen. Ducat properties, but it was not until the summer of 1886 that the
Williams family moved into their new villa Briarwood. Although John Sr.
died only two years later, the family remained here until after his widow's death in 1912. John Jr. was active in the golf and yacht clubs, as
43
Waldeck
Home built 1892
Private estate 1976
F. R. Lackner (1892-1900)
R. C. Clowry (1900-1906)
E. T. Glennon (1906-1941)
Judge Glennon and his engineer were standing on the deck of his steam
yacht Bendemere discussing what if any work was needed to make her seaworthy.
"Well, appears that all we need do is repaint the name plates.
insists on that much at any rate," the Judge observed.
The engineer looked at his employer out of the corner
waiting expectantly for further instructions or comments.
The Judge
obliged by stating,
mere!''
Julia
of his eye,
"And the name will remain the
Bende-
This latter remark was in reference to recent and past discussion by
friends, and even by Julia Glennon herself, that perhaps the boat should
have its own name rather than to share that of the estate.
The Judge
decreed otherwise.
Briarwood in 1885, residence of John Williams.
The home was razed in
1914 when the property became part of the Green GabZ.es estate.
were his brother and sisters, but as the offspring finished college less
time was spent here and more spent abroad. In 1914 William Wrigley, Jr.
purchased the estate and BriaPWood was razed that same year.
The villa
had stood immediately west of the present Wrigley boathouse.
And so within a week
afternoon tea parties.
Waldeck and its new owner
the boat was ready
R. C. Clowry,
for its occasional Sunday
president of Western Union, in
1902.
44
~;;:c
45
The Glennons had purchased the property known as WaLdeak from Colonel
R. C. Clowry about 1907.
The Colonel was President of Western Union
Telegraph Company, a business he had been involved in all his life. He
and his wife, Caroline Estabrook had spent a number of summers at Kaye's
Park beginning in the early 90's.
For Caroline it was in a sense returning home for she had been born in the village of Geneva. Her father,
lawyer Experience Estabrook, arrived here in 1839 from New Hampshire.
Locally he served as district attorney and school commissioner.
When
Wisconsin became a state in 1848 he represented this area at the 2nd
Constitutional Convention and as Attorney General.
In 1855 he was appointed Attorney General of the Nebraska Territory by President Pierce
and with his wife and children moved to Omaha.
Caroline and her husband were native Chicagoans.
Caroline was an
early member of the Woman's Club of Chicago and a musical composer pf
note.
One of her compositions sold over 1 million copies.
Caroline
died in 1897 but two years later, her husband and her brother rented the
John Johnston place (later HiZZaroft) for the summer.
The following
year Clowry purchased WaZdeak from Francis R. Lackner who had built the
home in 1892.
The Glennons then, were the third owners of the home and surprisingly
through the years few additions had been necessary.
The Judge and his
wife had no children, but they often entertained relatives and friends,
especially his brother-in-law, Judge C. H. Donnelly of Woodstock who
owned a home on the south shore of the lake.
Before his appointment as
an Illinois circuit court judge, Mr. Glennon had once been part owner
As an attorney he served as
and editor of the Woodstock SentineL.
Assistant Vice-President of the New York Central Railroad lines.
11)'chDod
C. L. Hutchinson (1903-1936)
Home begun 1902
Private estate 1976
The couple appeared to be a bit pensive as they stood talking amid
the splendor of the witch hazel, the last of the wild flowers to bloom
in fall. Charles L. Hutchinson and his wife Frances Kinsley Hutchinson
were reminiscing about the purchase of their estate wyahwood and recalling that they had selected the name because of the abundance of witch
hazel on the 70-acre expanse.
Frances turned to her husband saying "Oh, but there is so much here!
I wish we could share the joy we've had in preserving the natural state
of the property.
With so much of the adjoining shore and farm lands
being cleared and .... "
"Ah, my dear," her husband Charles
just that, you know."
gently broke in,
Puzzled, Frances waited a moment knowing full well
must have something special in mind.
"you could do
that her husband
Charles looked about him for a minute as he weighed his next words.
"You could write about it. Not just for us but for everyone. You could
write a book."
"A BOOK! I could write a book? Why Charles, really," Frances chided
her husband, "that would be too much."
"H'm ... but you've presented a paper at the Fortnightly and have contributed in so many ways to the development and direction we are taking
with wyahwood. You most certainly could write and share this experience
with others."
Following the Judge's death in 1930, Mrs. Glennon used Bendemere as a
permanent residence.
It was sold by her estate in 1950.
Today it is
still maintained as a private single-family estate ooder the new name of
Lai<Bwood.
Charles L. Hutchinson (1854-1924)
46
47
The Hutchinsons had purchased their property from General A. C. Ducat
in 1901, and because the General had left the land in it's native state
it was an ideal parcel for the Hutchinsons to have for their special
purposes.
Under the direction of Professor Charles Sprague Sargent of
the Arnold Arboretum and the guiding hand of William P. Langland, the
Hutchinsons' long-time gardener, the property was developed as a wild
flower and wild life sanctuary.
grounds committee, he left the impression of his taste and knowledge of
architectureinthe stately Gothic buildings that make up the University.
He was one of the founders of the Art Institute and served as president
of that institution for many years.
Charles Hutchinson was well respected in the business world for he
was president of the Corn Exchange Bank from its founding in 1879 and
served as a director of numerous other companies through the years.
His interest in the Lake Geneva area was evident by the numerous activities he undertook to sponsor and support.
It was he who conceived
the idea of building Horticultural Hall and he was able to persuade
others to support this idea. Further he was instrumental in the forming
of the Gardeners' and Foreman's Association and in developing the idea
that led to the forming of the Lake Geneva Garden Club. Sports too held
his interest and he was one of the founders of the Lake Geneva Country
Club.
Wyehwood about 1905, residence of C. L. Hutchinson.
Everything was subordinate to this plan for a sanctuary.
In the
building of their beautiful horne, the Hutchinsons disturbed as few trees
as possible. The house, with its three gables in front and tower at the
rear, was built of paneled stucco and most of the rooms had high beamed
ceilings and many had large fireplaces. From the outside, with its vine
covered walls, the horne appeared in total harmony with the woods surrounding it.
A large roofless veranda extended across the entire front
of the house and the gentle slope to the lakefront was alive with wild
flowers and shrubs. The only open spot about the house was in the "back
From one corner a pergola, covered with
lawn" on the woodland side.
grapevines and honeysuckle, shaded a brick walk leadingtothe garage and
servants' quarters.
It was not only their love of wild flowers and wild life that this
unusual couple shared.
They had met while teaching at a mission Sunday
school, and although they had no children of their own, throughout their
lives they maintained an interest in young people.
Mr. Hutchinson served for many years as
Universalist Sunday School and as a trustee
sity of Chicago from its formation. In the
great influence upon its development and as
superintendent of St. Paul's
and treasurerof the Univerlatter position he exercised
chairman of the building and
Back lawn of Wychwood about 1915.
Mrs. Hutchinson was not idle while her husband was busy with his activities.
She not only supported and assisted him with his plans and
programs but was an active member of the Chicago Woman's Club and the
Fortnightly, both organizations that took considerable time and dedication.
Further she was responsible for much of the planning and development of the Wychwood property at Lake Geneva.
Picking up her
husband's suggestion, she was one of the founders of the Lake Geneva
The latter is affiliated with the Garden Club of America,
Garden Club.
which annually presents the Frances K. Hutchinson Award for service in
conservation.
49
48
That the couple hoped their estate would remain a sanctuary is evidenced by the fact that the property was given in trust to the University of Chicago in 1932 for use in the study of wild flowers and other
wild life, and in the development of new strains of plants.
Mrs. Hutchinson retained use of the home and a few surrounding acres
until after her death, at which time this parcel too became the property
of the University.
.In 1957 the latter sold the entire estate to a private individual under terms permitted by the trust. The upper levels of
the home were then removed to create the ranch-style structure evident
today.
liUalort1nsia
Home begun 1906
Private estate 1976
E. F. Swift (1907-1922)
The sight of the Irish Jaunting cart and horse, with the Edward F.
Swift children gamely holding the reins and moving nimbly down the city
streets, brought many a smile to Lake Geneva citizens during the summer
of 1907.
The family had just moved into their spacious new summer estate Villa Hortensia, named for Edward's wife, 'Hortense Newcomer. The
family had been com1ng to the lake since 1902 when they rented the Van
Inwagen place on the south shore, among others.
Edward F. Swift was one of the eleven children of Gustavus Franklin
Swift, founder of Swift and Co., well-known meat packers and the only
one of his children to settle at Lake Geneva.
He held numerous offices
and directorships in associated companies. Edward was president of Campania Swift International, S.A.; Swift Refrigeration Transportation Co.,
vice-president of Swift and Co., and director of Swift and Co., Ltd.
But in spite of his business responsibilities and resulting tight
schedule, he took an actiVe interest in his property at the Lake. In
1909 he had the Davey Forestry Co., of Kent, Ohio do a considerable amount of work on the trees on his estate.
Dead branches were cut away
and diseased trees were treated in an effort to save them. The dubious
public was invited to view the extensive undertaking, still a very new
technique in the preservation of trees.
Postcard view of shore path about 1905
Vil-la Hortensia about 1906, residence of E F. Swift.
<
50
51
While outside experts would be called in to help with particular problems, it was the estate employees on whom the owners relied.
The
wealthy land owners around the lake were amicably trying to out-do one
another in the appearance of their properties, thus Mr. Swift's willingness to bring tree experts from Ohio.
The owners vied with one another
for honors with their gardens, their yachts, their farms and their prizewinning animals and produce. Of course, the real credit for their success
belong to the head gardeners, foremen and superintendents, and competition for the services of these men was keen.
Highly appreciated, these
men were given not only comfortable quarters for themselves and their
families, but "free-rein" to experiment, inprove and re-stock. Sincere
and intense loyalties developed in these men for the estates which employed them.
In many cases the head gardener or foreman remained constant while the ownership of the property changed hands several times.
Their names and titles were often listed proudly with those of their employers in lakeshore directories or in prize lists from the numerous
fairs and exhibits.
By 1910 the Swift estate was displaying blue ribbons won in peony and chrysanthemum competitions.
The following year
three new greenhouses were built to accomodate the head gardener's talents and new awards were received for dahlias and kohlrabi.
mers from 1911 until 1914 when it was sold to the excursion boat company.
From 1915 to about 1920 he leased the Olivette from the Otto
Young estate.
With all the many house guests at the Swift's, the boats
were kept busy plying the waters of Lake Geneva.
The estate was sold to Silas J" Llewellyn in 1922 and its name was
then changed to Pen-Y-Bryn in honor of his native Wales.
Llewellyn, at
the time of his death in 1925 was President of the Interstate Iron and
Steel and Chicago Malleable Castings.
A later owner was John J. Lynch,
prominent fellow in Chicago gambling circles, His winnings were said to
have been shared generously with friends or given to charities.
For
years the estate belonged to George Getz, an avid collector of antique
fire fighting equipment who created the Hall of Flame in Kenosha and
later in Scottsdale, Arizona.
ViZZa Hortensia's architect, Howard VanDorn Shaw, had provided a
handsome and well-planned home for the active Swift family consisting of
Annie May, Theodore, Philip and Edward F. Jr. Facing the wooded approach
to the mansion was a generously proportioned vaulted gallery which ran
nearly the width of the house.
To the west of this gallery was a guest
suite.
Directly in front was a spacious sunken living room and from it
one entered the library and then the billiard room.
These
airy for
generous
handsome
rooms, as well as the dining room to the east, were bright and
the large full length French doors facing the lakeside provided
amooots of light.
The dining room fairly "sparkled" with the
four-foot chandelier, heavy with prisms.
At the east end of the reception hall was a small fountain with a
ceramic pool.
A large kitchen faced the woods at the east end of the
house and it led to numerous pantries and storage and refrigeration
rooms. Off the kitchen, facing the lake, was a charming summer dining
room (still in its original state).
Trellises lined the 12-foot high
stucco walls and the ceiling beams. The high screen doors, 10 feet high
and 5 feet wide, opened to the front patio which ran the entire width of
the house.
The second story which was reached by a gracious circular staircase,
was similar to the first floor in plan with a large gallery overlooking
the back lawn and numerous master bedrooms and baths on the lakeside.
Smaller rooms at the east end of the hall housed the staff.
It was altogether a delightfully cheerful home -- a perfect spot for an active
young family.
It wasn't too many yea's before the young Swifts outg•ew their Irish
Jaunting cart and graduated to other vehicles.
The automobile with its
potential for speed attracted the young and so Swift rented A. C. Bartlett's steam yacht the Daisy (originally Levi Leiter's) for three sum52
53
WadsrtiOith !aU
Home begun 1905
Private estate 1976
N. W. Harris (1906-1920)
W. W. Shaw and heirs (1920-present)
Especially fitting was the Harris coat of arms carved into the ornate
woodwork of the central hall fireplace, for Mr. Harris was a direct 39th
descendent of Charlemagne! His mother had been a Wadsworth, a cousin of
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow. Harris had organized the banking house known
today as Harris Trust and Savings, and served as its president.
We've never been able to get out to Lake Geneva, so of course we were
pleased to receive the invitation to Pearl Harris's wedding."
Margaret
Thompson was talking to Hortense Swift, her close friend and a neighbor
of the Harrises at Lake Geneva.
"Oh, I know you' 11 enjoy seeing the home.
Really, after all these
years of trying to get you and John up there to see us, it's finally a
wedding that does it. I should have thought of that!"
Both women laughed gaily and Margaret pressed for travel details.
"Let me see if I understand the arrangements.
A special train has
been chartered and we can board at the Northwestern Station at Wells and
Kinzie?tt
"Yes, you are not to be concerned about even one little detail.
The
train will take you and the other guests directly to Williams Bay and
the Harris' steam yacht and ours and the Crane's Passaic and others will
meet you right at the waterfront station.
It's such a festive sight
with all the boats lined up, flags flying and the captains in their
dress blues."
Wadsworth Halt in 1907
Well then, there's nothing for us to do but appear at the station.
note that the train departs again at 8:00 P.M. so we'll arrive home at a
reasonable hour!"
"Now maybe we could persuade you and John to stay with us for the
weekend.
After all you won't be leaving for Harbor Springs until the
following week," Hortense reminded her friend.
The train would be filled, for in attendance at the wedding were two
bishops, Quayle and McDowell and a large wedding party. Family,too, were
there in full force with the bride's brothers Hayden and Stanley and
step-brothers, Albert and Dwight and numerous neices and nephews swelling the total to several hundred guests.
Wadsworth Hall was a perfect example of stately and classical Georgian architecture.
Built in 1906 for Norman Wait Harris the estate was
indeed a magnificent setting for the wedding of his daughter Pearl, in
1910.
The exterior beauty of the mansion speaks for itself even today.
The interior was equally regal with its 20-foot ceilings and a high
central hall of 50 feet in length.
From near the center, a stairway 12
feet wide led to a landing about 20 feet square with many tall windows
looking out on gardens and lawn.
From this point two staircases led to
the east and west balconies.
54
j
residence of N. W. Harris.
But the grounds deserve as much attention as the home.
The Olmstead
Brothers of Brookline, Massachusetts, who had created the handsome settings for the Columbian Exposition of 1893 in Chicago, were given free
rein.
Later they would be responsible for laying out Central Park in
New York City.
The Olmsteads planned sudden little "beauty spots" with
marble or rustic benches or small tea houses where Harris, who enjoyed
long walks, might stop to rest along the numerous pathways.
In another
location, where contents of a natural gravel bed had been removed and
used in the construction of the house itself, they designed a large pond
complete with lotus blossoms and swans.
The swans provided an interesting tale that has basis in fact.
The
first winter they were taken from the pond and kept in a heated pool in
the greenhouse.
It was thought that such pampering would be just what
they needed to survive the long winter.
Unfortunately only a few lived
and so the following winter it was decided to let nature take its course
and they were left outside to fend for themselves.
Lo and behold when
spring arrived all the swans had survived.
At the entrance to the grounds a beautiful Oriental gate house
erected and a circle drive permitted visitors to view the grounds
gardens without disturbing the family.
The lawn stretching down to
lake was interspersed with flower beds. The Harris yacht, Normandie
used a great deal for trips to the train and the country club and
was
and
the
was
was
55
moored at their lakeshore pier.
owned while at the lake.
llcwGJrside Inn
It was the third large vessel they had
Early
The family had rented Clowry's Waldeck the summer of 1904.
that fall Harris and Edward F. Swift purchased their lakeshore property
from the L. Z. Leiter estate (800 lakefront feet) and C. H. Hutchinson
(200 lakefront feet) dividing it equally between them.
Along with Edward Swift's father, Gustavus, Harris helped to found
and financially support St. James Methodist Church in Chicago.
He was
also deeply interested in the Field Museum and set up a $250,000 trust
fund to take Field Museum collections around to Chicago's school children. The fund was known as "Harris Public School Extension of the Field
Museum." Northwestern University received generous benefits from Harris
also. Under terms of a total gift of $250,000, he built the Harris Hall
of Political Science and History, and provided endowments for the building and for scholarships.
Other donations included $50,000 for a YMCA
hotel for young men, $100,000 for the Deaconess Pension Fund (church
related) and substantial amounts to Wesley Hospital and the Harris
School for Nurses.
Home begun 1898
Property subdivided 1954
Private residence 1976
S. B. Chapin and heirs (1899-1954)
"Ahem," Whitney Cartage Company? Good, good. Simeon B. Chapin here!
Just want to check on the trunk pick-up tomorrow.
No, no, 903 Fifth
Avenue.
Thought we should change the time to 6:00A.M.
You know how
crowded these New York streets get on sunny May mornings!
Want to be
sure to get everything to the station by 10:00 A.M."
Emma Gale Harris, his third wife and surv1v1ng widow, was the grand·
daughter of Dr. Josiah Bartlett, at one time governor of New Hampshire,
and a signer of the Declaration of Independence.
She was elected a
founder of the National Historical Society, Inc., and devoted considerable effort toward historical preservation.
The estate was purchased in 1920 by Walden W. Shaw, who renamed it
the Stenning after the ancestral horne of his grandfather in England. The
grounds were subsequently updated for new tastes and new times and the
swans replaced by tame ducks (which incidently attracted their wild Mallard cousins who liked the secluded location and took over.)
Walden W. Shaw was president of Walden W. Shaw Livery one of the earliest Chicago cab companies. Chicago historian, Lloyd Lewis discussing
the time tells an interesting tale of competition in the early days:
"Taxis were quite easy to find and could be enjoyed for not more than
50¢ a rnile ... a pioneer company (originated 1905) was followed later by
Walden W. Shaw who started the first big company, with John Hertz as a
helper.
When Hertz began running his Yellow Cabs, it was an unwritten
law that a Shaw could pass a Yellow, but a Yellow could not pass a Shaw
... Strangers did not understand this."
The beautiful horne was the scene of another wedding when the Shaw's
daughter Bessie became the bride of Daniel Peterkin, Jr. in 1929.
Not
long before the: outbreak of World War II the Btenning passed to their
ownership.
56
Flowerside Inn about 1901, residence of S. B. Chapin.
The caller was getting his household ready for the annual trek back
to the midwest, or more specifically to Flowerside Inn, Lake Geneva, Wisconsin.
In the early 1900's a trip such as this took no little organ57
ization!
Besides the numerous trunks of the family, there were others
for the servants, as well as countless boxes filled with household
items. Favorite saddle and carriage horses made the trip too, for often
the family did not return to the East until late October or November.
The Chapins had rented a home on Lake Street in Lake Geneva and then
leased the Mason B. Starring home on the south shore before purchasing a
large tract of land at $40 per front foot from L. Z. Leiter's holdings
in 1898, promptly building the lovely FZowerside Inn.
However only two
years later Simeon Chapin moved the headquarters of his brokerage firm,
S. B. Chapin and Company, from Chicago to New York City and thus the
necessity for the annual trek - a precedent the family followed for more
than 57 years.
Today we marvel that the months at Lake Geneva were considered restful!
It was Simeon B. Chapin who originated our indispensible Water
Safety Patrol back in 1925; it was he who heavily supported the YMCA
Camp (now known as George Williams College Camp) and worked tirelessly
in its behalf for over 40 years; it was he who erected the stone wall
that surrounds the Woods School to protect the children from highway
traffic. For the Gardeners' and Foreman's Association, he purchased the lot
on which Horticultural Hall was erected and he helped to form the present Geneva Lake Civic Association, the Lake Level Company and the Lake
Historical Society.
Chapin actively participated in the lake's Centennial celebration and supported summer schools on our shore which furthered the study of ecology and conservation.
Even today the Chapin
Foundation generously aids Geneva area schools, churches and libraries
and the "Y".
Not only did Mr. Chapin contribute the majority of funds
necessary to build the fine YMCA building which stood for over 60 years
at Cook and Main, but he personally paid staff salaries when hard times
hit the community and support from usual sources was understandably inadequate.
The barn at Flowers ide Farm in 1910.
Yet in the midst of all of these activities, a great deal of time was
also devoted to private interests. As the family grew, so did the home.
FZowerside, designed by architects Wilson and Marshall of Chicago, was
a blending of American and English country style homes. Originally surrounded by a lovely old-world garden and well-tended lawns, it provided
a peaceful and restful note to the harried traveler or guest who spent
time with the Chapins.
The house was quite spacious with high ceilings
and large rooms.
The living room alone measured more than 75 feet in
length and 30 feet in width; exclusive of the alcove at the end that
housed a great pipe organ, which could be electronically controlled from
the opposite end of the room,
The pealing sounds of the organ often
startled uninitiated guests who were unaware of the controls.
This delighted the young Chapins.
The Chapins purchased Samuel Allerton's first Time in 1897 when Allerton decided to build a new boat, and they re-christened t~e yacht
Marietta after one of the girls. The Marietta was busy transporting the
active youngsters and family back and forth to the train, to the country club and to town.
By the 1930's Mr. Chapin was also owner of the greatest acreage in
the area.
It included the main house and usual estate buildings, plus
five farms, each with a specialty:
Flowerside Farm and Summit Farm
Brown Swiss cattle; Como Farm- Poland China Hogs; Allerton Farm-young
cattle and feed crops and the Brookdale Farm - sheep.
Great attention
to detail was the key to success on each of these vetures.
Chapin home after 1906 addition to house the organ.
Flowerside Farm is maintained today as a separate entity and its large
barn is of particular note.
Built on the site of a sizeable gravel pit
which furnished material for road construction during the building and
developing of the estate, the farm remains one of the landmarks in the
area and an aesthetic delight for all who travel Snake Road.
Two other
parcels belonging to the original holdings are retained by a Chapin
daughter and grandson.
The main house Flower side Inn remains a private
home in the subdivision portion of the property.
59
!OJuJ~~
Home begun 1905
Private estate 1976
in th1 1!0JOJds
A. C. Bartlett (1906-1922)
"Here, here, move that stake a bit to the right.
No, pull back, we
don't want this tent to take off."
Richard Soutar, general contractor
for House in the Woods, the A. C. Bartlett home, walked briskly over to
one of the small fires to warm his hands on that cold December day, 1905.
He had a lot of problems on his mind, but once this tent was raised
the foundation of the large home that he was committed to finish by
spring, 1906, he felt sure things would move along at a good pace.
There were numerous workmen about the site to assist with the raising
of the tent and quite a gathering of local people, who had arrived on the
scene in twos and threes to watch this novel approach (at least for this
area) to winter building construction.
"Now all we need are the elephants," one local wit was heard to remark.
But jocular remarks bothered neither Soutar nor Frederick Bartlett
who was checking on the progress of his father's home.
By late afternoon the tent was raised and the foundation and framework within were no
longer at the mercy of winter's icy blasts. Cheers arose from the crowd
as the Stars and Stripes and the bonnie flag of Scotland (in honor of
Soutar's heritage) appeared atop the pinnacle.
Through the years the home and property continued to gain attention
and acclaim. The June, 1909 issue of ~adies Home Journal carried a two
page collection of pictures of the mansion and observed that it was one
of the most beautiful country homes in the land.
A few years later it
was iPcluded as one of the "Best 12 Country Homes in America" in another
national magazine survey.
What was particularly interesting about the
latter study was that the other eleven homes selected were all of traditional and conservative design.
House in the Woods can best be described as a combination of many
types of architecture and credit for the originality of design is jointly due architect Howard Van Dorn Shaw and artist··muralist Frederick Clay
Bartlett, both men of recognized achievement.
It is generally acknowledged that Frederick had a "finger in the scheme of things" both on the
exterior and in the interior.
Frederick himself noted: "Most people
take their country house entirely too seriously.
They build architecttural monuments of which they must needs always stand in awe". Obviously, this was one mistake he did not intend to see made. Even today,
although most of Frederick's murals were painted over before World War
II, it is evident that he kept that statement in mind as he decorated
the famous gallery and loggia and dining and living rooms.
Colorful
garlands of flowers and festoons, gay floral baskets, horns of plenty,
tiny birds, deer and flowers were painted about on the walls, in window
recesses or in the form of plaques over the doors and windows.
Real
flowers spilled from window boxes around the house and created a profuse
border about the reflecting pool in the inner courtyard.
60
61
The horne was planned to meet the particular needs of this interesting
family.
There were two distinct residences here, and though connected
each served a specific purpose.
The large main house was U-shaped with
110 feet facing the lake and two 78 foot wings that formed three sides
of an inner courtyard.
The studio building completed the fourth side.
While the main horne was intended as a summer place only, the studio
(later converted to living quarters for Frederick)was heated so that he
might work there throughout the year.
works in his gift.
His own works included the murals in the lobby of
Bartlett Gymnasium and the fine oil on burlap decorating the stage curtain of the Students Club, both at the University of Chicago.
Florence, youngest of the three Bartlett daughters, was an early supporter of the Eleanor Club of Chicago and instrumental in the establishment of its permanent summer camp here in 1913, just west of Conference
Point. She was a life governing member of the Art Institute, a dedicated
collector, and would be decorated by Sweden's Gustav V.
The 44-acre grounds of House in the Woods were purchased from L. Z.
Leiter's widow in early 1905 for just under $50,000
representing a
tidy profit to the seller.
This particular plot however contained the
Mallory Springs, the water of which was said to have certain curative
powers.
Mr. Bartlett carefully preserved it in its natural state, allowing the public to continue its traditional pilgrimage.
Whether or
not he personally benefited from the Spring's amazing abilities, history
does not reveal.
In addition to the purchase of the property from the Leiter estate,
Bartlett also purchased the Leiter boat, Daisy, which was completely
overhauled and put into service the summer of 1908. For their use until
that time, Bartlett rented the Potter steam yacht, the Princess.
In 1923 Frederick H. Bartlett,
a Chicago realtor
the previous owner, purchased House in the Woods.
House-in-the-Woods in 1906, residence of A. C. Bartlett,
and no relation to
William Spencer,
who
was involved in the manufacture of insulated railroad cars as well as
investment banking, acquired the estate in the mid-1930 1 s and remained
until only recently.
The property and home remain intact as a private
estate today.
Adolphus Clay Bartlett was the first secretary of Hibbard, Spencer,
Bartlett and Company, the hardware firm, when it incorporated under its
new name in 1882. His career began when he was only 19 and he was still a
very active chairman of the board upon his death in 1922 at age 78.
A
powerful physique concealed an extremely modest inner character and
there is little doubt that Mr. Bartlett was far more comfortable with
his books and fine art collection than at theatre parties.
He was appointed a director of the University of Chicago the year House in the
Woods was completed and donated Bartlett Gymnasium in memory of his eldest son, Frank Dickerson Bartlett.
Generous support was also given
Beloit College, and Chicago's Horne of the Friendless, Old People's Horne,
Orchestral Association, Central Church, and of course the Art Institute
both during his lifetime and later in his will.
Frederick Clay Bartlett, the surviving son, was elected to the National Institute of Arts and Letters when he was only 34--a considerable
honor, for membership was limited to just 250 of our nation's leading
architects, artists, musicians and writers. His gift of the Helen Birch
Bartlett collection (in memory of his wife) established post-impressionism at the Art Institute. Seurat's "La Grande Jatte", Cezanne's "Basket
of Apples" and Van Gogh 1 s "Bedroom At Arles" were especially prized
63
62
Joll1
Home completed 1884.
Property subdivided 1925.
Razed 1925
thing BUT a folly. In the end, his wife's attachment for the estate was
perhaps even greater than his own.
S. W. Allerton (1884-1925)
"Thirty thousand and not a cent more," said Sam Allerton emphatically.
"Thirty-two thousand eight hundred," countered Sam Wheeler hopefully.
11
Then sir, we cannot do business today!' 1
And with that Samuel W. Allerton turned and quietly left. He was determined to have a summer place at Lake Geneva but he was equally determined to offer no more for the Manning's Point property.
Henry Lord Gay, the young architect responsible for the fishing
lodge, was immediately engaged to design the magnificent redwood structure Samuel had in mind, incorporating the lodge as its core. But first
the building must be moved uphill and then down again in order to save a
certain tree Samuel favored which stood directly in the path between the
old and new locations. The resulting Fatty soon became a familiar sight
along the shore and was appreciated for many more reasons than merely
its imposing appearance. If you happened to be a fisherman attempting to
find your way through the Narrows in a storm or on some dark night with
little or no moon to guide you, the Fatly served as a beacon. Its solicitous owners had you in mind when they ordered lamps placed in all the
windows.
A few hours later however he returned triumphantly to Chicago, now
the proud new owner of the 26-acre Forest Lodge estate ofT. J. Schneider.
This bachelor's octagonal fishing retreat had cost almost $12,000
alone when built three years earlier, and on this fine August day of
1883 there was a twinkle in Sam's eye as he told his wife of his $15,000
purchase.
A bewildered Agnes Allertm, upon hearing the totally unexpected news,
is supposed to have exclaimed, "A fishing lodge? Heavens Samuel, that
is sheer folly!"
The term stuck. Agnes good-naturedly accepted all subsequent teasing
as Samuel carried out his ambitious plans to prove his purchase was any·-
Grounds at Allerton estate 1885,
The Folly in 1885, residence of S. W. Allerton.
64
Samuel Waters Allerton, if he had cared to, could claim direct descent from Mayj1ower passenger, Isaac Allerton; but all his life he considered it a better recommendation to his prospective creditors to tell
them he was a farmer than to mention his lineage.
Forced to shift for
himself at the age of 12, he had successfully managed farms in the East
until at 22, he had saved enough capital to begin buying and selling
livestock.
Soon his buying trips extended into Illinois where in 1856
he invested in a cattle ranch of his own in Fulton county, marketing his
stock in Chicago, which became his home in 1860.
As both his breeding
and packing enterprises rapidly expanded, he initiated a movement for a
centralized market.
The Union Stockyard was the result of his efforts.
His increased volume of financial transactions resulted in the organization of the First National Bank in 1863. Eventually he was to own
over 40,000 acres of farm and ranch lands throughout the Midwest, processing much of his cattle in his Allerton Packing Co.
Yet even in the
hard business world of his day he was recognized as a quiet, temperate
~
man and affectionately known as "Farmer Allerton" by all -- even at Lake
At formal dinners his napkin was tucked under his chin--"Where
Geneva.
it belongs," he always said.
His beloved steam yachts, his pride and
joy, were both called the Time.
The family's favorite carriage horses
bore the eminent names, Tom, Dick and Harry. Despite their substantial
wealth, the Allertons preferred to remain "just folks."
Agnes Thompson Allerton was the second wife of Samuel.
Her sister
Paduella, who died in 1880, had been the first. The two Allerton children, Kate, already a young lady, and Robert, then 10 years old, had
little difficulty adjusting to their new step-mother, nor to the lake,
where another aunt, Mrs. Reinette Lester (later McCrea) was only a short
distance away at B~aaktoft.
Kate married Dr. F. S. Papin in 1885.
Robert took over management of his father's many interests upon completing his education abroad, and would be long identified with the Art Institute and with the renowned Allerton farm at Monticello, Illinois.
Parlor at the FoZZy about 1895.
While seeing to the needs of her family and the estate, Mrs. Allerton
became aware of yet another exigency and took prompt action.
The area
west of the city of Lake Geneva was inhabited by Irish imigrants with
more families still arriving.
For three months of the year the fathers
might find work on the lakeshore estate farms and the mothers in the
mansions.
Woods School (named for this small settlement known as the
66
Allerton family about 1895. Roses from the Folly greenhouse.
67
Bonnie Bra)e
Home begun 1881
Property subdivided 1939
Private residence 1976
T. F. Withrow (1881-1897)
M. A. Ryerson (1898-1939)
"But it just don't fit!
It just don't," blurted Samuel Forest,
head carpenter for the project.
"That boat is just too large - look
here" and before Martin A. Ryerson could digest the news fully, Forest
laid out a set of well-worn blueprints.
"See, that architect didn't
leave enough room."
Speechless at first, Ryerson looked out the window across the gentle
sloping hill and down the lawn to the recently completed boat house and
dock. The Ryersons' 72 foot steam yacht, the Hathor was gently bobbing
at the dock, awaiting winter storage in her new quarters.
Ryerson ruefully recalled a conversation that past spring with Forest, who said that he could handle the assignment without an architect's
plans. But Ryerson had insisted on having his Chicago man draw up blueprints. Glancing over at Forest, Ryerson wondered if he too remembered.
Allerton dining room about 1895.
Irish Woods) was closed during the summer months leaving the younger
children, in most cases, unattended at home, Agnes Allerton decided to
establish a summer school where these children might learn practical
subjects such as sewing, cooking and housekeeping, not only enabling
them to become better home-makers in later years but providing them with
a means of earning a living.
She purchased the necessary equipment
(sewing machines, a stove, kitchen utensils) and hired a specially
trained teacher.
On occasion she even taught classes herself.
The
Domestic Science School was successful, judging from the number of years
it remained in operation.
Today it is a recognized part of the curriculum.
Bonnie Br>ae in 1885, residence of Judge L
The beautiful redwood home with its 4-story tower was razed shortly
after Mrs. Allerton's death in 1925. In her will she left all the costly
furnishings to the cause of Holiday Home.
68
F, Withrow.
Indeed Forest did, but he was far too circumspect to comment on it at
that time.
However the following week the paper noted that "Samuel
Forest, local builder, followed a Chicago architect's plans for the new
Ryerson boathouse ... when finished, discovered the boat Hathor was too
large to get into it.
We venture to state that any of our Lake Geneva
carpenters could have drawn plans for a house, which when built would
69
have been large enough to admit the boat without any special fuss."
The senior Martin Ryerson was already owner of numerous sawmills
(principally in Michigan) when he founded the lumber company which later
bore his name in Chicago in 1851. Success was assured; wood was in great
demand as the principal building material in the fast-growing city. And
when the Great Fire spared his lumber yards the demand was even greater.
As a result, Martin A. Ryerson (the son) was born to wealth, grew up in
wealth and never knew otherwise.
He spent 7 years in Paris pursuing a
general literary and scientific education and was admitted to the firm
upon his return.
Being a quiet, retiring man he was not cut out for
business life, and upon his father's death he gave up his connection
with the company.
By the age of 36 he was credited with being probably
the richest young man in Chicago and his activities centered mainly on
the University of Chicago and foreign travel.
Quite naturally his appreciation for art stemmed from that long stay in Paris.
He came to
know Lake Geneva when the Williams Bay site was under considerationfor
Yerkes Observatory. Mr. Ryerson was a member of the Lake Geneva Country
Club and presented the Bonnie Brae cup.
But Chicagoans are most familiar with the couple and with their generosities.
Ryerson's gifts to the University of Chicago (the Ryerson
Physical Laboratory, the Bacon papers, and other donations) were a contributing factor to the early success of that institution as a center of
learning. He served on its Board of Trustees for 35 years. The Art In-
Withrow grounds in 1885,
Martin A. Ryerson and his wife Carrie Hutchinson purchased Bonnie
Brae late in 1897 after spending the summer there.
The substantial and
attractive house on the bluff near the Narrows had been built in 1881
for Judge Thomas F. Withrow and was designed by C. A. Alexander who had
also designed Snug Harbor that same year.
The Judge had given up a
law practive in Iowa to accept the general solicitorship of the Rock
Island line in 1872, and was made general counsel of the line only three
years before his death in 1893.
His widow and children stayed on here
until after daughter Bonnie's marriage to Lynden Evans in 1896.
It was
a quiet wedding, for the family was in mourning, her brother Henry having
died that summer. Brother Charles, by then of New York, returned to give
his sister away and the Porters kindly furnished transportation for the
guests on their yacht WhiZeaway.
Interestingly enough, Bonnie (after
whom the estate was named) was warned by physicians that she must expect
widowhood in two years. Immediately she took up the study of nutrition,
and the application of what she learned had two results: the establishment of the Chicago School of Domestic Arts and Sciences, and a marriage
that would last 30 years.
When the Ryersons became the owners of the 31-acre estate they retained the original name, Bonnie Brae, but launched a building and remodeling program that altered the property considerably.
In addition
to the new boat and its inadequate housing (which was promptly corrected), more land was purchased bringing the total frontage to 1250 feet,
eventually with 98 acres of residence and farmlands.
The main home's
capacity was almost doubled with the completion of a costly addition the
following year.
70
M. A. Ryerson (1856-1932) pictured (left) with artist
and personal friend Claude Monet in 1920.
71
stitute, of which he was honorary president, received four galleries of
paintings donatedbythe Ryersons, and Mrs. Ryerson later gave permission
for the paintings to be displayed, in chronological order with other Art
Institute works, rather than to have the Ryerson Collections remain as a
single entity.
A most generous gesture.
Most of the gifts and collections were purchased on their numerous trips abroad with very close
friends, the Charles L. Hutchinsons of Wyahwood.
Both couples were
childless and through the years traveled together constantly.
!Ita Vista
Home built 1881, burned 1919
2nd home begun 1919
Property subdivided 1954
Private residence 1976
0. W. Potter (1881-1907)
F. D. Countiss (1908-1918)
W. N. Pelouze (1919-1954)
Frances Glessner and Caroline Sprague had determined to discuss the
matter with another close Prairie Avenue neighbor, Mrs. George Pullman.
After Mrs. Ryerson's death in 1937 the house changed hands a number
of times before the property was subdivided by a local realtor in 1954.
Fortunately the main house was not razed and is maintained still as a
private residence.
"I just don't know what Ellen Potter was thinking about.
Imagine,
The conannouncing that she will 'receive' from noon until 3:00 p.m."
versation became more animated as Jennie Ayer joined them.
All agreed
that Ellen was indeed an individual, "bless her," but none agreed on
whether it would be better to eat lunch at home first or whether they
could expect to be served at Potters. Such were the formal codes of the
1880's. One always received in mid or late afternoon, not at noon!
But Ellen, her, husband Orrin and four children, Edward, Agnes, Gertrude and Margaret, did not always ascribe to the "rules of the day" and
thus made life interesting for their friends as well as the general public.
Nineteen-year-old Gertrude kept the news wires busy during the
early 1890's when she was studying under Mr. Kayzer at the Chicago Conservatory and undergoing her dramatic period.
Nonetheless friends were
shocked to see (or later to read) of her appearance at Hooley's Theatre
"for sweet Charity's sake" in a role requiring the wearing of tights!
In late 1899 Margaret, then but 17 years old, made her debut as an
authoress with a book entitled SoaiaZ Lion.
However, her appearance on
the literary scene was to be brief for the book, whose views on society
created quite a stir, was soon withdrawn from the market.
Undaunted,
Unfortunately
Margaret set about on a new novel entitled Unaanonized.
reviews of this book are unavailable.
Yerkes Observatory about 1900.
Orrin W. Potter, like the women in his family, drew the attention of
the press, but for less sensational reasons.
He arrived in Chicago in
1857 to help build the North Chicago Rolling Mills and then stayed with
the company, rising to the position of president. In the mid-1890's the
firm, Joliet Steel, and Union Steel all merged with Illinois Steel and
he was elected chairman of the combined board, a position he held only
two years before retiring. Potter is credited with having played a major
role in moving the center of the iron and steel industry from the East
to the Midwest. He supported his almost 10,000 employees through depressions and periods of industrial unrest.
His mills were rarely troubled
by strikes as he had a reputation for settling in favor of the worker
whenever there were wage disputes.
The first AZta Vista was built by 0. W. Potter in 1882 on a 74-acre
tract of land purchased the previous summer.
It was the scene of daughter Agnes' 1884 marriage to James C. Hutchins of Chicago and since the
Potters as yet had no steam yacht, the Sturges' Arrow was dispatched to
meet guests at the village pier.
Among those boarding were Prof. David
72
73
western Regatta were welcomed by Commodore Countiss and his wife Eleanor
on the lawn near the wide, sweeping veranda.
Forming a backdrop behind
the host and hostess was the outline of a yacht, complete with masts and
a spar rigged with electric lights.
Down at the pier their real steam
yacht Eleanor (the former Potter Princess) was also gaily decked out
with lights.
It set the tone for the entire evening and as the guests
moved through the receiving line and toward the refreshment tent, they
commented on the support poles wound with oak branches and the roof
arches strung with grape vine, heavy with lucious fruit. Caterers with
refreshment trays passed among the groups of sailors and served ice cream
Guests could
molds in the shape of full-rigged yachts, sails and all.
be heard to exclaim over and over, "It's simply unbelievable," and "Such
a splendid party," or "So imaginative!"
Just such a conversation was being held by a group from Oconomowoc.
Lester Armour turned to his wife and friends to ask, "Well, how are we
going to top THIS for the Inland Regatta which we are hosting in two
weeks?"
"Only two weeks away .... oh dear," and slight frowns appeared, for two
of this group were to chair the event. "Well, we shall just have to get
busy," one of them ruefully observed. "But to out-do Lake Geneva?"
Alta Vista in 1885, residence of 0. W. Potter.
Swing, the renowned Chicago minister who officiated (his home Swinghurst
was then under construction near Buttons Bay) and H. M. Kinsley, the society caterer and father of Mrs. C. L. Hutchinson of Wychwood.
During the Potter tenure at Alta Vista the guest book was filled with
names such as Glessner, Sprague, Pullman, Jewett and Gookin---all business and social leaders of Chicago.
But the social activities of this
group were rarely frivolous; theirs was the more intellectual emphasis.
The women were all members of the Fortnightly, an organization dedicated
to the study and pursuit of knowledge.
Most of them were also involved
in social work in the city.
After considerable investigation, Mr. Potter decided on what he judged
to be the best yacht design for this lake and in 1890 his steel-hulled
Princess began her long career of service.
But Ellen Owen Potter died
in 1903 and her husband passed on four years later, shortly after his
marriage to Mrs. Elizabeth Bell.
ALta Vista was sold in 1908 to F. D.
Countiss of Chicago.
"Ah, that reminds me, I think we gentlemen should excuse ourselves
and have a conversation with Dr. Schmidt."
There were differences between the Northwestern Regatta group and Inland Lakes Yachting Association preventing a merger which Armour and others strongly desired, and
although it would be a numberofyears before the union would take place,
the groundwork was being laid now by Dr. Schmidt and others.
Meanwhile
the Oconomowoc ladies continued their planning while other conversations
here and there revealed some of the excitement and flavor of events of
the past week.
"We must remember to tell the captain of the Harvard how much we enjoyed following the races from aboard his boat," a gentleman from Minnetpnka was saying.
"It was most generous of the club to charter it for
the entire regatta."
Just outside the refreshment tent a group from White Bear Lake were
discussing the R. T. Crane party held Wednesday evening for participants
and guests. "I said then I didn't think we'd see anything like it again
and look!" and with an expansive wave of arm the man continued, "Now
this!"
The approach to Alta Vista, whether by boat, carriage or automobile,
was beautiful and breath-taking on that Friday evening in August, 1911.
Japanese lanterns swayed gently on the lower boughs of the trees surrounding the house and back through the woods to the stables. The front
of the home was brilliantly outlined with electric lights.
Members
74
of the visiting yacht clubs
and their guests
at the North-
His wife interrupted, "Well I thought having the Crane Company band
play for the dancing was a treat.
Excellent band," and, turning to the
couple on her left she inquired, "Don't you agree?"
"Oh indeed I do," said the lady from Delavan, "but I have to say that
of all the events, the parade of those 40 steam yachts all decorated and
filled with guests was most exciting.
And all the homes so brilliantly
lighted---the Selfridges, the Mitchells, the Chapins, the Hutchinsons,
the Swifts--- I can't remember them all."
75
"Well my dear, you've done quite a job listing them so far," chuckled
her husband.
"But you forgot to say that we were on board the trimmest
ship of them all when viewing all that splendor."
"And which one was that?" someone inquired.
"Why the Crane yacht, the Passaic, of course!"
The Countiss' two children, Henrietta and Frederick, were born during
the years the family summered here. House parties were the rule, rather
than the exception. But Mrs. Countiss had her eye on the lovely Loramoor
estate across the lake and when it was offered for sale in the autumn of
1916, the couple quickly made the purchase.
With the stagnant real
estate market of the war years however, a buyer for Alta Vista did not
appear until the spring of 1919.
At that time W. N. Pelouze became its
new owner.
Everyone smiled and began to recall their favorite event of the week.
The Northwestern Regatta of 1911 was indeed a success and the Commodore
and his wife and the committee members had reason to be pleased.
When Frederick Downer Countiss purchased Alta Vista three years before, he was a stockbroker with the S. B. Chapin Co. and a young, handsome bachelor.
Before those of his neighbors with eligible daughters
could plan suitable strategy however, he dashed to the east coast and
returned with his bride, the heiress Eleanor Robinson. During the years
they owned the estate, few changes were made to the home itself, but the
Alta Vista Farm was extensively improved and took its place among the
leaders at the various competitions. Their gardener displayed a standard
chrysanthemum which all but stole the show at the 6th Annual Gardener's
and Foremen's Exhibition of 1910.
It was a staggering eight feet high
and bore a mass of beautiful blooms.
At that particular show no less
than nine blue ribbons were proudly accepted by the owners and the gardener. In later years the farm's dahlias and vegetables were also deemed
exceptional.
Hortense Swift was relieved to have her neighbor Agnes Allerton join
her on the drive to the south shore to visit Helen Pelouze, temporarily
staying in the Drake home since the recent burning of Alta Vista.
"Now Hortense, my dear, you shouldn't be so concerned. You'll be delightfully surprised when you see Helen, for she's really doing beautifully." Settling back in the seat of the car Agnes continued, with ever
so slight a smile, "In fact we probably should be more concerned with
our own health at this point.
"Why Agnes, how can you say that? You know Helen has spent the summer
in bed.
Heavens, I felt so sorry for her when the Colonel brought her
over to our house after the fire.
She just couldn't stop talking about
it. And there she was in a wheelchair!"
"Yes, yes, I know.
But you really haven't seen her since and you've
no idea how this whole tragic event seems to have stimulated her somehow.
Why, she's even been out to lunch with the Mayor and his wife! I declare
it sometimes takes a disaster to move things along."
And well it might have been a disaster, for Helen Pelouze had been
brought out by special train from Chicago early that summer of 1919 and
had barely left her room until the mid-September fire.
Her brother and
sister-in-law, Mayor William Hale Thompson and his wife, were frequent
visitors that season, but Helen, when she was up, was confined to the
wheelchair.
Fortunately when the fire broke out there were a number of
people about, and although the house was completely destt"oyed, the firemen and servants had time to rescue most of the fine paintings, antique
furniture, silver and lovely cut glass that were treasured.
Agnes Allerton was correct; Helen Pelouze did begin to show improvement right after the fire"
In fact she and William and the architect,
Howard Van Doren Shaw, began to work on plans for the new Alta Vista before the ashes were cool from the blaze.
Grounds at Alta Vista about 1910 then the home of
F. D. Count iss.
The influence of the Italian lake district was to be apparent in this
home. The exterior was a cool grey plaster and the somewhat straight
lines of the rear facade were broken only by the stone balustrated balconies on the second floor.
The interior design of the home followed
traditional Italian lines with a high vaulted loggia running the length
of the house and a garden room separating the two main wings" Tall marble archways framed the entrances to the library, garden, living and
77
76
dining rooms.
Appointments throughout carried the Italian influence in
travertine vases, delicate wrought-iron work and special lighting effects created to blend with the over-all theme.
Borth Shore rarm
Home completed 1903
Burned 1960
Property subdivided 1928
F. L. Chapman (1903-1927)
The young reporter from the Chicago Record Herald was eager to begin
the interview with Frederick L. Chapman, the widely respected Chicago
publisher. The young man's assignment had a dual purpose: first to describe the highly inventive building techniques used in the construction
of Chapman's new summer estate; and secondly, to get the publisher's reaction to the recent fluctuation in farm prices.
"Ah, you're Mr. Thomas from the Record Herald. Welcome to North Shore
And extending his hand Chapman inquired, "Hope the trip out
wasn't too uncomfortable?"
FaY'rTl.
William Nelson Pelouze was a great boating enthusiast and was a competitive and colorful member of the Lake Geneva Yacht Club, serving as
commodore for seven years.
He had been a frequent visitor at regattas
here when the family had a summer home on Oconomowoc Lake during the
early 1900's.
When not sailing he was out on the lake aboard his steam
yacht, the Medora, named for their only daughter. It had been purchased
from Agnes Allerton in 1920 and was the second of Samuel's much-loved
yachts to bear the name Time. Colonel Pelouze, a handsome and energetic
man, had arrived in Chicago in 1882 just after graduation from Michigan
Military Academy.
In 1892 after holding several successful positions,
he organized and headed the Pelouze Scale Manufacturing Company, later
re-organized as simply the Pelouze Company. The title "Colonel" stemmed
from a year's service in the Illinois National Guard in that rank, but
was used by everyone when referring to him.
He served as an ambassador
for his brother-in-law, Mayor Thompson, who was a frequent guest here--so
much so that some thought the Mayor was the owner of Alta Vista!
For
years Pelouze served as chairman of the St. Lawrence-Gulf Waterway Commission, chairman of the Illinois Deep Waterway Commission, and a member
of both the Chicago Plan Commission and the board of governors of the
Art Institute.
While the Mayor's sometimes stormy political life often monopolized
front page headlines (he had a running battle with the Chicago Tribune
throughout his three terms of office), Pelouze and his wife remained behind him.
Helen Pelouze served as president of the Lake Geneva Garden
Club and as hostess for countless regatta and yacht club functions. Many
yachtsmen recall the events so genero4sly sponsored by the couple.
'
The property remained
in the Pelouze family until 1954 when vacant
parcels were subdivided.
The main house was sold with some lakeshore
frontage and has changed hands numerous times.
One of the owners was
James J. Hill whose wifeJ Louise Rehm (the former Countess LaRoche) was
a granddaughter of J. B. Gromrnes of All view. The home remains a singlefamily· dwelling today.
78
"Not at all sir, not at all."
"Well, as I understand it you want to know about the house and some
of the new construction we used. Too bad my wife's brother, Fred Sewall
couldn't be here. He was the architect, you know. Here, let's sit down
and we'll see if you can get some good copy."
Chapman indicated two
large wicker chairs on the porch, tactfully failing to mention a Chic:ago
Tribune reporter had sat there only the day before.
A few hours later the reporter left with enough copy for a number of
stories.
The background on the design and construction of the house in
fact caught the young man's interest right from the beginning. The home
had been planned for year-round use and in our supposedly advanced age
of building technology it is interesting to note some of the construction trend-setters of the 1890's and early 1900's.
Those of us who are
so proud of space-age freezing and refrigeration units might just be
envious of the earlier era.
The Chapman home took advantage of a natural slope in the ground and
the cooling and refrigeration room walls were completely buried in the
hillside.
Running spring water flowed through a large cooling tray of
Alberene stone where milk, vegetables and cream were kept in large
stone jars that rested on the tray. A constant temperature of 48 degrees
was maintained year-round.
The adjoining refrigeration room had an ice chamber where the farmcured ham and bacon and farm-raised beef and mutton were stored.
No
need for an emergency run to the store when last minute guests appeared!
The basic construction of the residence showed the same thoughtful
detail.
Basement walls of the 20-room house were two feet thick and
eight feet deep.
The walls of the first floor were laid against 6-inch
studding which was plastered and then back-plastered creating two air
spaces in the outside wall which guaranteed warmth in the winter and
79
coolness in summer.
The principle is analagous to modern thermopane
window construction.
Another insulating technique was the use of relatively new double-ply "quilt" material underneath the sheeting of the
first and second story and on exposed sections of the roof.
This material was usually used in building refrigerator cars and cold storage
plants and was a perfect non-conductor of heat and cold as well as
sound.
Rwnely Oilpull Tractor at work on Chapman farm~ 1912.
North Shore Farm in 1904, residence of F. L. Chapman.
A lovely spacious porch ran the width of the home facing the lake and
from it you could enter the main rooms on the first floor -- the living
room at the west end and dining room at the east.
A large central hall
separated the two, with a study off the living room and the entrance to
the pantries off the dining room.
A rear hall led to the wing containing the kitchen, pantries and ingeneous refrigeration room.
A kitchen
feature was the skylight which gave this room a particularly light and
The second and third floors contained eight bedrooms, a
open feeling.
sewing room, children's play room and numerous baths with linen and
other closets.
The family must have enjoyed the home and appreciated the convenient
features for other family members were frequent guests.
The children
too brought friends home from college and school and the tennis court
and pier were filled with their Amherst, Beloit, and Mt. Holyoke classmates.
Mr. Chapman's publishing interests tied in nicely with his avocation
of country gentleman farmer. The Ram's Horn, a weekly publication, and
later the monthly BetteP Fanning enjoyed wide circulation. He and his
newly-completed publishing house at LaSalle and Ohio, Chicago, were
featured in the May, 1908 issue of the New York magazine The FoUPth
Estate.
He didn't just write about farming, he practiced what he preached.
The public was invited to visit the farm from time to time to view progress.
One occasion was the demonstration of a new Rumely Oilpull
80
tractor engine which attracted a large crowd. In April, 1912, there were
few tractors in the vicinity and so the operational records of Chapman's
engine were of interest.
As one editor observed, "In these days when
help is hard to get and cost of feed is so high, it would seem that the
adoption of machinery .... is about all there is left for the farmer to
do."
Chapman wrote often of his farming experiences here and on his
23,000-acre ranch in Deer Lodge, Montana, always encouraging the latest
methods.
There were 5 children in the Chapman family, all of whom grew up here
and were playmates of the local youngsters: Louise, Fred, Edmund, Helen
who married Frederick Frost, (son of the well-remembered Dr. E. B. Frost
of Yerkes Observatory) and Margaret.
At the time of Chapman's death in 1925 it was noted that he was a
"prime mover" in the organization of the Lake Geneva YMCA, had contributed generously to its building fund and was active in local civic affairs and the Congregational church here.
In 1927 the property was sold and subdivided.
The Chapman home, at
the time owned by Blair Remick, a Chicago restaurant proprietor~ was destroyed by fire in 1960.
A new home now occupies the site.
The North
ShoPe Fcwms acreage today comprises Sunset Hills (both north and south
of Hy. SO), Sunset Hills Shores and Geneva Oaks subdivisions.
81
horses and cattle, the second for the carriages, and the third for hay.
The loft was reserved for the birds, who claimed it for generations.
Glen rern
Home built 1884, fate unknown
2nd home begun 1911
Property subdivided in part
Private residence 1976
N. C. Sears (1894-1935)
GLen Fern in 1895, residence of Judge N. C. Sears.
Considering the
cial, legislative
comments on N. C.
Club in 1894, are a
Judge Sears' interest in his property here was not that of a casual
summer visitor.
His orchards were managed by N. P. Pierson who had
taken special interest in the care and development of fruit trees. Among
the new methods tried was that of spraying, then still a relatively
novel approach to tree care.
Through the early 1900's reports of the
Sears orchards indicate that Pierson was highly successful in his new
approach. At the Mid-Summer Fair of 1907 the farm took first and second
place for raspberries. By the 1913 Mid-Summer Fair, the farm was awarded first place for both strawberries and cherries and a special blue
ribbon for the cherries.
In the autumn of 1910 the Judge and his wife decided to build a new
and larger GLen FePn and Richard Soutar of Lake Geneva was contracted
to build the house on land adjoining the original home.
The new home
with its impressive first floor of stone facing and second floor of pink
and grey granite was the setting for a number of weddings of family
friends.
In 1913 their cousin Miss Edna Kimball of Chicago was married
at the new GLen Fern and the A.C.Bartletts entertained the bridal party
at a dinner and house party at House in the Woods. Other friends and relatives accepted the generous offer to hold their wedding ceremonies
there too.
The couple was childless and enjoyed helping to celebrate
family events.
current low esteem in some quarters for our judiand executive branches of government, the following
Sears, who purchased lakeshore property near Elgin
pleasure to read.
The local paper observed that "Judge N.C. Sears ... is making quite
a record in Chicago.
An honest Judge on a Cook County bench is such a
rare bird that when one is found he becomes very conspicuous.
Hence
Judge Sears' reputation!"
The Republican convention of 1897, presided over by John M. Smyth,
After losing the election
nominated Sears as their mayoral candidate.
to Carter Harrison, the younger, he was appointed that year to the Illinois Apellate Court and served in that position until 1902.
Born in
Elgin, Illinois, during his father's long tenure there as principal of
the Elgin Academy, N. C. Sears graduated from Amherst College andreturned to practice in Chicago after receiving his law degree.
He later
not only served on the bench, but was a member of the law faculty of
Northwestern University and served as trustee of the North Shore Congregational Church. He took time to serve his alma mater as well as his
fraternity, D.K.E., as president of their alumni association.
The first Sears home GLen FePn was a substantial looking cottage with
a sea wall and first story built of field stone and the second floor and
three-story tower covered with dark stained cedar shingles. To the rear
of the house were a foreman's cottage and a large circular field stone
barn built into a slope.
The first floor of the barn was used for the
82
The second Sears home built 1911.
The large living room with beamed ceilings ran three-fourths the
length of the house. The generously proportioned dining room featured a
large bay window on the west wall which, with its window seat provided a
separate smaller dining area. A screened porch opened off the dining
room.
The pantry, kitchen and cooler, laundry room and servants quart83
ers were in a rear wing.
At the east end of the living room facing
north were a den and another small room. Upstairs were three large bedrooms and five smaller ones used for guests and servants.
While the farm held the Judge's primary attention, he also enjoyed
taking out his steam yacht the Quaniche and picking up friends in Elgin
Club before heading out for a tour of the lake.
After Judge Sears 1 death in 1934 the property was sold.
The estate
has been partially subdivided but the main house, the caretaker's cottage and the circular barn (now a private residence) still remain.
Jer;eyh1r1t
Home begun 1879
Razed 1933
Private estate 1976
R. T. Crane and heirs (1880-present)
Dear Family,
Camping along the shores of this lovely Lake Geneva is
a truly rewarding experience. However I find it would be
even more complete if "Bill" were here.
Respectfully,
Your Dutiful Son,
Bert
The letter, arriving in Chicago in early summer of 1879, was addressed
to Mr. and Mrs. Richard Teller Crane from 18-year-old Herbert Prentice.
"Bill" was his favorite saddle horse. Most of the other campers had made
the 90-mile journey from Chicago on horseback, but Bert had come by way
of the Chicago and Northwestern train to Harvard, and thence by livery
rig to the lake. Thus he was missing the riding excursions
enjoyed by
his friends.
Curiosity about the lake area as much as parental indulgence moved
the Cranes to fulfill Bert's request.
And so the next sunny day the
senior Crane~ their 5-year-old son Richard and Mrs. Crane's sister Eliza
set out for the campsite behind the team of "Jenny and Pete," great pets
of the family.
"Bill," who was tied first to the rear and then to the
front and then back again to the rea~ refused to settle down and finally
in desperation Mr. Crane had to turn him loose, predicting, "That shall
be the last we' 11 see of him, I expect!"
But amazingly enough "Bill"
immediately settled down and trotted docilely behind the surrey with
only an occasional foray over a fence or through a thicket.
At this time the lake area was known chiefly for its hunting, fishing
and camping pleasures and there were only seven major estates, namely:
MapZe Laom, Shado?.J HilZ, Butternuts, North?.Joodside, Moorings, Oaks, L=n
Glen and Linden Lodge, the latter then under construction.
All except
two were well east of the Narrows, very close to the village of Geneva.
But Mr. Crane fell in love with the lake at first sight and within a
matter of days had purchased a 23-acre site, making plans to build immediately.
The initial parcel was a piece of virgin forest about three
miles west of the village limits.
The estate would eventually cover 95
acres with close to a quarter mile of shoreline.
The bustling depot at Williams Bay about 1900.
84
The main home was substantial even by standards of the day anditcontained numerous bedrooms and a score of other main rooms with a separate
cottage for the servants.
Older lakeshore residents recall one unique
feature of its interior design:
the beautiful stained glass windows
depicting views of the lake from various vantage points which were set
at intervals in the outer wall behind the large open staircase.
85
The estate Jerseyhurst, named after R. T.'s horne state of New Jersey,
would in his lifetime contain four major lakeside residences and many
out-buildings. But first the story of the company that R. T. Crane built
and how he did it.
managerial personnel was promoted from within the company and all employees were allowed to purchase stock with the stipulation that should they
wish to sell, the company would have first option.
Further, according
to a Chicago newspaper, "Mr. Crane was the first to inaugurate the custom
of paying to the employees a percentage of the earnings of the company."
He and his firm were recognized publicly in 1883 by another paper for
maintaining an excellent employee-employer relationship, the underlying
reason, from the paper's point of view, that hundreds of Crane Company
employees had been there for many years.
Today, when both government and business are suspect, it is revealing
to note that an issue aroseinl896 regarding pressure supposedly applied
by R. T. Crane on his employees to support McKinley for President. Crane
immediately made a most vigorous denial and wrote a letter stating his
position for all to read.
In 1905 in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Crane Company, sixty of
his foremen and overseers were entertained at a Jerseyhurst house party.
The next day the Cranes and their guests joined the remaining 15,000
Crane employees for a picnic near DesPlaines Station. Gifts were presented to many of the men at the picnic, some quite generous, such as silver
tea services or gold watches.
The employees were liberally remembered in R. T.'s
Jerseyhu:rst about 1885, residence of R. T. Crane.
In a day and an age when the term "captain of industry" did not ring
synonymous with "employee welfare," Richard Teller Crane was a man a generation ahead of his time. Young Crane arrived in Chicago in 1855 at the
tender age of 23 and with the backing and blessing of his uncle, Martin
A. Ryerson Sr., opened the R.T.Crane Brass and Bell Foundry on the premises of his uncle's lumberyard.
A successful contract to make railroad
boxcar castings for Thomas Chalmers (father of W. J. of DronZey) of P.W.
Gates and Company led to repeated large orders through the years. This
was not accomplished without a great deal of hustling, inventiveness and
mechanical understanding on the part of R. T. Fortunately he had inherited his father's natural ability in the mechanical field and often when
a knotty problem faced the company, he was able to rescue the situation
with the invention of a new machine or the adaptation of an existing one.
By the fall of 1855 R. T.'s brother Charles had joined him in the business and with the latter's background as an iron-moulder, the company
branched out to brass finished goods.
The following year the brothers
built a 3-story building at 102 W. Lake, a fortunate site as later years
would prove for it was outside the Chicago Fire zone.
By 1873 Richard
had bought out his brother Charles and in 1890 the company became known
simply as the Crane Company.
It isn't the bare economic facts however that make this firm and its
founder so interesting.
Several news items give us insight into his
dealings with his employees, both at the company and on the estate. His
86
Crane grandchildren and their pony cart.
will when he gave
$1 million to a pension and disability fund for their benefit.
Fortunately the good will that existed during his lifetime continued. Shortly
after his death in 1912, the company purchased historic Buffalo Rock near
Ottawa, Illinois as a recreation ground for employees.
Crane the husband, father and friend was every bit as interesting as
Crane the businessman. Richard and his first wife, Mary Prentice, had
seven children: Charles, Herbert(Bert), Kate, Mary, Frances, Emily and
Richard, Jr.
The Cranes' love of the area was so great that three of
their daughters were promptly enrolled in the Lake Geneva Seminary, a
boarding school for "refined young ladies," according to its brochure.
Visiting the daughters gave the couple added excuse for coming to the
lake every few weeks.
She frequently transported the family members to the golf club, particularly R.T., who greatly enjoyed the sport. After his death the boat was
not used as much, and often remained in the boathouse for a number of
seasons in succession. At the 1911 Northwestern Regatta the Cranes were
hosts at a lovely dinner and dancing party for the sailors and guests.
The main house and the Passaic were outlined with lights and the Crane
Company band played for those who wished to dance-- usually, as one
matron observed, the "younger set."
Mrs. Mary Crane died in 1885 and two years later R. T. married her
sister Eliza who had long made her home with the family. Eliza, passed
away in 1900 and three years later he married Emily Sprague Hutchinson,
a cousin of Caroline Hutchinson Ryerson who was the wife of R. T .' s first
cousin, Martin A. Ryerson of Bonnie Brae.
The Cranes enthusiastically entered into the social activities of the
lakeshore.
In 1880 their first steam yacht the Passaic arrived and it
served the family faithfully until 1900 when it was sold toW. J. Chalmers
whose Thistle had just burned.
The second Passaic, perhaps one of the
most graceful of the lake's private fleet, was launched in June of 1899.
Views of the Russian Building at
Jer>seyhurst, about 1906
One of the treasures of the estate was the Russian Building, brought
from the St. Louis World's Fair of 1904. This replica of a Russian peasant's cottage with all its intricate fret work and repeated double-edged
carvings, was especially admired by Charles R. Crane who had traveled
extensively in Russia and had a magnificent collection of that country's
art and treasures. When Russia, sensing that U.S. sympathies lay with
the Japanese in the war being waged at the time, withdrew its exhibits
from the fair, Charles was quick to purchase this structure and move it
to the Jerseyhurst grounds.
Here it was used for afternoon tea, which
often became quite a party with five or six boats steaming up to the
Crane piers in time for the regular 4 o'clock observance. Summer guests
and residents would enjoy the display of Russian artifacts and sample
freshly concocted pastries prepared by the Crane's French chef, whose
services were the envy of nearly every woman attending these gatherings.
Occasionally there were also musicians to add to the atmosphere.
Second Pass air:!" launched 1899
88
0
Another attraction of Jerseyhurst was the grapery.,
R. T. started
this vineyard under glass. The estate was famous for its perfect bunches of black Hamburg and Muscat Alexandria varieties. Neither a meal nor
a visit at the Cranes was complete without a sampling of these famous
grapes.
Such was the reputation of the grapery that at one Mid-Summer
Fair a bunch was sold toN. K. Fairbank for $100.
89
CZoverbank in 1900, residence of Charles Crane.
Glen Mary in 1895, residence of A. F. Gartz,
The hunting lodge, a small cottage which had been built in 1879 for
use by the Crane family while the main house was being completed, was
greatly enlarged in 1889 for Kate Crane soon after her marriage to Adolph
F. Gartz. The resulting large frame Glen Mary was the center of activity
as the Gartz family grew. Kate and Adolph had five children, but two lost
their lives along with their nursemaid in the terrible Iroquois Theatre
fire of December, 1903.
Adolph Jr., Richard and Gloria, like their
father, were trophy-winning sailors and conversations at the dinner table
often centered on the family's favorite sport.
The fourth major homeonthe estate, Cloverbank, was built in 1889 for
Charles R. Crane and was the furthest west along the shoreline from the
main house. Charles, his wife, the former Cornelia Smith, and their four
children, Richard(III), Frances, Josephine and John spent a great many
of their summers at the lake until 1919. Charles was an ardent supporter
of the Democratic and Progressive political parties and served as U. S.
minister to China for a year.
In 1933 the original Jer>seyhurst was razed by the family along with
the Russian Building.
El Nido~ completely remodeled in 1960, and other
portions of the estate are today maintained by a great-grandson of R. T.
Cr-ane.
Glen Mary was sold by the Gartz family in 1943 but is still a
private residence of the new owner.
Clover-bank was razed in 1943 and a
This home and
new home built near the site by another great-grandson.
surrounding land were sold in 1970,
El Nido about 1902, residence of Mrs. H. P. Crane.
In 1887 El Nido (the nest) was built for Herbert Crane and his wife
Jessie Doolittle and their growing family of four children: Herbert Jr.,
Dorothy, Valentine and Charles R,, II.
This home was situated immediately east of the R. T. Crane home.
The boathouse for the Passaic was
further to the east near the extreme edge of the estate.
90
91
!ra GlGJn
Home bui 1t 1893
Property subdivided 1926
Church camp use 1976
J. S. Cooke and heirs (1890-1925)
Men of capital in the late 1800's had often worked at many and varied
occupations before achieving great personal or financial success.
Such
a man was John S. Cooke, owner of Ara G~en.
Mr. Cooke came to this country from County Cork, Ireland at the age
of 17 and, after a brief stay in New York, arrived in Chicago in 1857
and found work at Kent's Packing House. He was next employed by Michael
Kelly in the soda water manufacturing business and soon moved to Smith,
Schwab and Compan~ wholesale liquor dealer~ as city agen4 eventually becoming a partner when the latter firm was re-organized as Monheimer and
Cooke. In 1885 he purchased the Union Brewing Company which promptly became the Cooke Brewing Company, and shortly before his sudden death in
1899 he organized the Ara Glen Mineral Bottling Company.
who could be seated at one time in its huge dining room, the beaming
proprietor was certain he would meet with immediate and lasting success.
Alas, he never did. Nor did the 4 other proprietors who followed in the
ensuing decade before Mr. Cooke took over.
The first landlord had even
installed a bar when all other enticements failed to increase registrations.
As he himself was a staunch member of the Temperance Society,
only great frustration and deep desperation, would have caused this move
on his part.
While it is true that the annual gross profits were increased somewhat that year, it is also true that a different type of
clientele was attracted and during the short tenure of the next owner
the resort gained a bad reputation. Nothing the last two managers proposed-even the sumptuous cuisine-would again attract the more desirable
guest.
One man declared bankruptcy; the other simply sold at a slight
loss.
4""'
But diversification was in his blood when he purchased the Pishcotaqua Park House at Lake Geneva. Piscotaqua was the old Indian name for
the lake and translated meant "sparkling waters." The property was composed of about 16 acres with 1650 feet of shoreline--all available to
the new owner for only $23,000.
Al'a
Pishcotaqua Hotel, in operation 1880 until destroyed in 1892 fire.
The 4-story hotel, advertised as the largest of its kind in the
Northwest, had opened in 1880 as a temperance resort. With its third of
a mile verandas and the Elkhorn Band on hand to entertain the 300 guests,
92
Glen about 1895, residence of J. S, Cooke.
Mr. Cooke's first step upon purchasing the property in February, 1890
was to change its name to Cook's Park Villa Hotel and to declare it
would be run in first-class style "even if I don't make a cent." In July
he acquired Mrs. Lester's steam yacht Reinette, renamed her Irene after
his daughter, and proceeded to offer his hotel guests convenient, comfortable and direct conveyance between Cooke's Park and the train pier.
The innovation proved alluring.
Plans for a large addition to the main
structure were already on his desk a month later when a smoldering cigar
stump set fire to the bowling alley. Before dawn the resort's bar room,
billard hall, ice house, barn and carriage house were also no more to be
93
seen. Undaunted, Mr. Cooke continued his improvements, replaced the bar
and billard room and opened the 1891 season with the dining room almost
filled to capacity -- a new first.
That summer he added the 51-acre
Morefield farm to his holdings, thus closing the gap between the hotel
and the road (now highway SO). That fall he built a large barn close to
the road. Business was again encouraging the following season and perhaps Arthur Kaye recognized that the "old Pishcotaqua" might offer some
worthy competition after all, for he followed Cooke's lead and purchased
the old Sturges yacht Arrow for the accommodation of his Kaye's Park
guests on the opposite shore.
But it was merely the lull before the
storm. The jinx was still there. The huge hotel caught fire just before
Christmas in 1892 and burned to the ground!
Parker lstate
Home completed 1899.
Burned about 1920
Private homes (2) 1976
George G. Parker (1899-1916)
Mr. Cooke saw the handwriting on the wall and switched to gentleman
farming. The relatively new billard hall was considerably remodeled and
converted into a comfortable residence for his family.
The resulting
private estate was re-named Ara Glen and although rumor persisted, the
hotel was never rebuilt.
In 1896 the home was altered extensively when
it was placed on a cut-stone foundation and a furnace installed.
All
traces of the hotel era disappeared that year while J. S. enjoyed his
new grandson and Mrs. Cooke made arrangements for their daughter Irene's
forthcoming November marriage to Dr. P. H. Welch of Chicago.
John S. Cooke died in 1899, but his widow, their three sons Charles,
George and John R. and daughter Mrs. Welch continued to summer at Ara
Glen and in at least one other cottage built on the estate to accommodate
their growing families.
After Mrs. Cooke's death however, the shore
frontage was equally divided, the Welch family drawing the longest straw
and winning the main horne.
Today the westernmost area of the estate is known as the Knollwood
subdivision while Camp Augustana occupies the east portion.
The roadside barn and main house have been incorporated into the church camp complex and are still recognizable.
Residence of G. G. Parker, about 1902.
"Oh George, Mother and Father will be so pleased!
I know they don't
expect us for another day or two."
And Lelia turned impulsively toward
her husband adding, "Let's not call.
Let's just drive right up to the
lake and straight to the house."
"Now, now, Lelia, I think the fact that we drove 2600 miles in twelve
days and are safely here will be quite enough of a shock to them. No
need to overdo, you know.
Besides, yesterday I called Rosalie at Rehoboth and she and Hubbard were going to call on your parents last night
and tell them that we made the trip by automobile and are safely here."
George stole a glance at his wife to see how she was taking this news.
"Oh well," said Lelia with resignation, "I suppose you are right."
Then brightening considerably Lelia observed, "Won't we have fun telling
everyone about the trip from California? Just think, we' 11 always remember September of 1913 -- crossing the desert, through the mountains and
over the plains by automobile.
And by ourselves!" Without waiting for
George's reaction, Lelia continued, "Oh do you remember that rancher,
the one with the crazy horse "Hotspurs?"
And they both began to laugh at the recollection.
Indeed they would
have many an opportunity to relate their adventure~ for not only Lelia's
parents the George Green Parkers would want to know, but all of George's
family would expect a firsthand account as well.
George G. Parker was one of the founders of Congress Club in 1881 and
94
95
his family summered there until 1896 when George purchased a substantial
portion of the Buckingham tract, then known as Rowena Park.
The tract
had been acquired by John Johnston, Jr., and laid out as a subdivision
earlier that year and Johnston had hired J.S. Cooke's foreman to supervise work on the grounds and to do some additional planting.
Along the
back of the lakeshore lots Johnston established a handsome drive with a
grand double curve that ran between the John M. Smyth and John S. Cooke
properties.
He called the drive Sturges Avenue in honor of the pioneer
summer residents and named the subdivision Rowena Park in honor of one
of Shelton Sturges' daughters. Interestingly enough, Johnston purchased
the property from Ebenezer Buckingham, Shelton and George Sturges' bro-
fares in the nation.
Soon after J. M. Triner. inventor of the scale which was standard
equipment in every U.S. post office, purchased the Parker estate, the
home caught fire and was re-built along the same general lines.
In the
mid-SO's the property was again divided into its original lots, but the
Triner home remains a private residence.
ther-in-law~
Family and guests must have smiled as they drove through Rowena Park
and turned off Sturges Avenue and headed down George Parker's drive in
November of 1906 for the wedding of his daughter Lelia Clarissa and the
young George, Jr. ~1any commented no doubt on how much Shelton and George
would have enjoyed seeing their nephew and son married to a young lady
who, like him, had grown up on the lake. However there were plenty of
Sturgeses to represent the family this day: the groom's aunt and cousins,
Mrs. Buckingham Sturges, Kate, Lily and Benton; and his older sisters,
Rosalie Sturges Carpenter (who with her husband Hubbard was anxiously
awaiting the completion of their new home Rehoboth,) and Ethel Sturges
Dummer and her husband William whose daughters Marion and Katherine were
attendants for the bride.
John Borden, a close childhood friend, was
best man and in a few years would lease (then eventually purchase) the
old Snug Harbor estate of George's family.
The Buckingham tract proved a perfect setting for the gracious white
frame home the Parkers chose to build.
Along with the construction of
the house, work was begun on the horse barn, for Mr. Parker's avocation
was the care and enjoyment of fine horses. A few years later in 1902 he
purchased the 144-acre Arnold farm located east of the Button property
which just happened to contain the old Woollacott race track.
Parker
assured his good friend, J.J. Mitchell, that he intended to use the land
for farming purposes only, but his friends agreed they wouldn't be a bit
surprised to see one or two of Parker's horses over at the farm.
While the young Parkers shared their father's fancy for the animals,
they also spent a great deal of time aboard Gadabout, the family steam
launch. Mrs. Parker, who was Inez Luella Knapp before her marriage, was
deeply committed to summer activities about the lake and was one of the
founders of Holiday Home.
Eventually with their daughter married and living in California, and
their sons away at school, the Parkers-placed their lakeshore home on
the market in 1916 and purchased the old Maxwell home in Lake Geneva, a
few blocks off the east shore of Geneva Bay. The home,known as the Oaks,
had been built for D~ Philip Maxwell in 1855 and was famous for its 200year-old white oak trees.
Dr. Maxwell, grand uncle of Augustus Maxwell
(husband of Dorothy Crane of Jerseyhurst), was one of the seven original
owners of the lands in section 36 upon which the village of Geneva was
built.
Maxwell street in the village was named for him, as was Maxwell
street in Chicago, the latter perhaps one of the best known thorough96
Aquatic meet draws a crowd.
97
'f7ra11ley
Home begun 1895
Property subdivided in part
Private residence 1976
gardeners from Chicago, planned the drives,flowerbeds and lawns and stocked the greenhouse.
John M. Smyth (1896-1917)
E. W. Pardridge (1917-1919)
J. T. Llewellyn (1919-1927)
"Mary Angela, Mary Angela ... oh there you are my dear. Ah, but I'm glad
to find you. I can't understand how everyone in this household manages to
disappear at precisely the moment I want one of them!
But Mrs. John M.
Smyth was smiling as she asked, "And where might your brothers be? And
your sisters? The boat will be arriving at any minute and we must hurry
to greet your father. He's so delighted with his new toy, bless his soul!"
Ohhh, Mother," and Mary Angela gave a girlish gasp as she admitted, "I
forgot to tell you that Thomas and John are with Father. At the last minute they both decided they wanted to go after all. William is down on the
pier with Jane, Sarah and Ellen. Loreto is upstairs putting on her THIRD
change of dress. She is making such a fuss and all because the boat is to
be named after her!"
"Now, now my dear," admonished her mother, "if you will recall, we all
agreed on the name. So call her please and let's walk down to the pier together .••• quietly, quietly, Mary Angela. Perhaps it would be a bit more
ladylike to go upstairs to get her instead of shouting from the hall."
The arrival of the Loreto brought the architect back to TyrawZey again
to design a boat house for the vessel. The steamer was by no means a mere
decoration,for Mr. Smyth enjoyed a relaxing game of golf and would set off
by boat in the direction of the country club, stopping along the way to
pick up a foursome.
But life had not always been relaxed for John M. Smyth, nor did he have
the advantages he himself was able to provide for his sons and daughters.
His parents had left Ireland in 1843 and he was born on the high seas.
Because of his father's untimely death Smyth had begun his own business
career at age 13 when he left school and found employment in the composing
room of the Chi~ago TPib1~. He was asked to transfer to the business department when his superiors thought his talents should be better used. He
worked for a number of newspapers in the years following, but in 1866 at
23 he decided to use his small nest egg to start a furniture store on west
Madison street.
In 1891 the store was" completely destroyed by fire.
On
the following morning, so the story goes, a friend asked what he was going
to do now.
Mr. Smyth replied, "I can't do anything until this stuff is
cold enough to move."
But his friends claimed he knew exactly what he'd
do, and he did it!
As soon as the wreckage was removed, a new building
began to rise on the same spot on Madison near Halstead.
This structure
would be familiar to two or more generations of Chicago furniture buyers.
And so the family was dutifully assembled on the pier in front of their
home Tyr~Zey for the arrival of the sleek new steam yacht Loreto on that
cloudless August day of 1897.
The Smyths had sampled their first summer at the lake in 1892 at Kaye's
Park. Two years later when H. A. Beidler offered to sell a portion of the
former Meatyard tract, Mr. Smyth purchased 28 acres with 1100 feet of lake
frontage.
The following year the family leased theW. J. Chalmers home.
Plans for TyrawZey were drawn up by the Chicago architect Charles H.
McAfee in what was called at the time "California Mission" style. Whatever
the term, the home was handsome, spacious and quite perfect, all agreed,
when Smyths took possession the summer of 1896. Native fieldstone was used
for the foundation, porc~piers and chimneys and the rest of the house was
of wood painted a light grey with green trim. Some of the more distinctive
features of the interior were the large fireplace mantel of African marble
and white oak, the handsomely carved staircases with generous broad landings, five large stained glass windows lighting the main reception hall
and gold-plated hardware throughout the first floor.
The estate's total picture, rather than any single feature, caused it
to stand out in visitors' memories.
The large carriage house with living
quarters for the coachman above was designed to match the main house, as
were all of the numerous utility buildings. Near the shore was a pleasant
gazebo, which reached out over the water, and nearby was a small bath house
for the convenience of family and guests. Swain Nelson and Sons, landscape
98
TyrCCtUZey about 1906, residence of John M. Smyth.
A firm believer in the goodness of man, Mr. Smyth was one of the most
generous of merrhants when it came to extending credit, particularly to
young couples just starting out. Further, he had well-defined views con99
cerning man's responsibility in other areas, one of which was politics. He
expres£ed his philosophy one time by noting,'~y doctrine is that good citizens ought to feel it their duty to mix in politics to eliminate corruption. How else shall we elect good men to office?"
Although he refused the Republican Party's nomination for mayor many
times, he was active in leadership circles on all levels---city, county,
state and national.
He was a presidential elector in both 1880 and 1884.
Yet in spite of his demanding business and civic committments, the Smyths
could always be counted on to support projects about the lake.
Tyrawley 's next owners were the W. H. Alfords who changed its name to
Stone Gates before selling the estate to William H. Emery of the Chicago
Rawhide Manufacturing Company in 1937.
The Emery family were long-time
lakeshore residents.
In the 1880's William's father, W. H. Emery, Sr.
had taken a half-interest in the Lucius Newberry, the Lady of the Lake
and smaller excursion steamer. the Commodore, but shortly thereafter
he sold out, accepting as part payment 21 acres of property on the south
shore (now known as Lake Geneva Beach) ,which he continued to own several
decades.
Mrs. Emery too was long acquainted with the lake. as her
parents, the T. Edward Wilders, had rented a cottage at the old Forest
Glen Park resort in the 1870's.
The Emery family changed the exterior
of the original Smyth home, but many of the other bui I dings retain their
initial architecture.
Part of the estate is still owned by the family
today.
John M. Smyth (1846-1909)
Characteristic of comments made about this delightful man are those of
the attorney Merritt Starr who observed shortly after Smyth's death. "A
man with strong ideas of civic reform, the highest ideals, and intense honesty, he exercised an influence in this city (Chicago) which few realized.
He was a man of such purity and nobility of purpose that he might well be
classed among the great men of the country.
His devotion to Chicago is
remarkable."
Smyth died in 1909 and the family maintained the estate until 1916 when
it was purchased by E. W. Pardridge of the Hillman Store in Chicago.
The
following summer however Mr. Pardridge died of heart trouble and Tyrawley
was subsequently sold 2 years later to John T. Llewelly~ founder and president of the Chicago Malleable Castings Co.
The lure of ~:.c area was too much for some Smyth family members howeve~
and in 1919 John Jr. purchased the old Bailey home and considerable lands
in the newly-incorporated village of Williams Bay.
The old farmhouse was
remodeled and greatly enlarged, and the grounds landscaped to conform with
the park-like setting of the Yerkes Observatory, directly across Geneva
street. The family remained there 33 years.
John M. Smyth residence and boat, Loreto, about 1899.
101
100
Lawn Glen
Home completed 1874
Burned 1896
Property subdivided 1890, 1922
E. B. Meatyard (1874-1888)
H. A. Beidler (1892-1922)
As they walked the old Indian trail skirting the shorelin~ the couple
mused on the changes taking place.
"Well now, Geneva and Williams Bay will both have summer mansions.
hope I like this Meatyard home as well as I do the Sturges and Rumsey
places," the pleasingly plump woman said as she turned toward her husband Frederick, who was a few steps behind her on the narrow path.
"You will, you will," Frederick replied. "Here it is, 1874,and we are
already getting our first mansion. I wonder what the future will bring?
Haven't met this Major Meatyard yet, but I understand he's quite a chap."
"From the description of the house in the paper--let's see, they used
the term 'castellated villa,' whatever that means--! certainly don't
know what to think.
Someone at church said there is a moat around the
house!" his wife confided.
"A moat?
Sounds like a German castle," the husband replied.
"Oh no, I heard it is English in character."
Suddenly encountering
a steep rise she asked, "Oh dear, Frederick, how much further before we
reach this amazing edifice?"
"Not much further, my dear. We'll rest when we get around the point."
Major Meatyard's home was a source of curiosity, wonder and pride to
the local residents, as was the man himself.
The vast acreage amassed
by the Major during a 15-year stay in the area is staggering in terms of
today's land values.
By 1886 he held title to about 730 acres in three
adjoining townships. The Williams Bay tract extended from the shoreline
east of Cedar Point back over the ridge to Lake Como and most of the flat
land at the head of that lake was also his.
There were also 240 acres
in the town of Walworth.
In southern Illinois the Major owned a large
mining interest where most of the village of Shipman had been built on
his property.
Who was this man who invested so heavily in this area and what of his
background? As his 1889 obituary notice observed, "He was a man of considerable inventive faculty and took out many patents, none of which have
yet been put into practical operation.
The majority of his patents are
related to (railroad) car improvements but nearly all of them necessitated
a revolution in manufacturing .... hence the patents were mainly theories
which could not be tested except at immense cost."
rn a more personal vein it was noted that Major Edward B. Meatyard
was of English heritage but that he had served in the 27th Illinois unit
102
LaLm Glen in
1885~
residence of Major E. B. Meatyard.
of the Infantry during the Civil War "with credit and honor to himself."
He was a civil engineer by profession and, the paper observed, "a man of
impulse; loyal to his friends and to his country."
One other trait may be noted---that of humor.
In 1886 he wrote the
HeraZd editor regarding a recent township levy: "The Walworth assessment
seems to be like its lakeshore road, full of up hill work, for anybody
who attempts to say anything about it .... the waterfront pays 5.3 times
as much tax per acre as the average for the whole town •.•. Yours for fair
play, E. B. M."
Another time the following story was reported to the editor and then
printed.
It seems that after reading the weekly issue one raw November
day, Major Meatyard called for one of his men and said, "That baldheaded
step ladder of the Herald says that he is out of wood.
Now if he waits
for somebody who owes him on subscription to bring it in, he will likely
freeze to death, so I want you to take a load of stove wood, cut and
dried, and leave it in the yard with my compliments." The following week
the editor retaliated simply, "One of these days we will try to get even
with the Major."
Those living in the Bay and about the lake remembered that the Major
was largely instrumental in extending the railroad to Williams Bay, by
granting the Chicago and Northwestern Railroad the 16 acre right-of-way
over his lands north of the road (now Highway SO).
His inventions received long write-ups in technical magazines such as
Scientific American while he himself contributed articles on all manner
of science-related subjects. After reading one such work which the Major
103
its name to Tarry On.
For several seasons in the early 30's Freeman
Amos" Gosden and his family vacationed here and broadcasts of the much11
1
beloved Amos n Andy" radio series originated from the home during these
months.
In 1952 Edward Emery, son of the W. H. Emerys of neighboring
Stone Gates~ became the owner of Tarrry On and the estate stayed in the
family the next twenty years, It remains intact today.
11
had penned on the subject of road conditions, the local paper observed,
"If the Major's experience in passing over the infernal roads between
his home and Geneva does not give him full knowledge of what country
roads ought to be, nothing could.
The Current has struck on the right
man in the right place. The Major is a practical engineer, a farmer of
experience, a thorough scholar and his articles ought to have value."
But' life was not to continue so full or easy-going for the inventive
Major Meatyard. His Shipman mines, never a paying operation anyway, sud··
denly folded completely and forced him into bankruptcy. All of his land
in Walworth county was sold by forfeit in November, 1888. Stricken with
a serious illness at about the same time, he died virtually penniless in
Shipman the following May.
John Johnston, Jr. purchased the 121·-acre Meatyard tract surrounding
Lawn G~en at the sheriff's sale for something in the area of $17,000.
Before he could do much more than plot the shoreline portion into building lots as Cedar Point subdivision, he found a buyer for the entire
tract in the person of Herbert A. Beidler of Chicago. The latter retained
the westernmost shore lands containing the Major's castellated villa for
his own, offering the rest of the lots for sale.
John M. Smyth subsequently became owner of the eastern portion comprising 28 acres where he
built his TyrawLey in 1896.
Glen Annie in 1895, residence of W. W. Cheney.
The lot in the center of the shore frontage was purchased in 1892 by
Henry G. High who, the papers say, built a cottage that summer but left
after only two seasons here, selling to W. W. Cheney. The white, wooden Glen Annie underwent a series of both major and minor alterations
during the tenures of Mr. Cheney and Frederick Wolf who bought it in
1904.
However it was not until Fred B. Cozzens became its owner that
additional lots were acquired from Mr. Beidler to increase its frontage.
The L. B. Hamlins who purchased
Glen Annie
4Zpine ViUa about 1895, residence of H, A. Beidler.
Major Meatyard's idea of architectural perfection was apparently not
shared by the Herbert A. Beidlers however,when they became its owners in
1890.
By March of 1894 ground had been broken for a new residence on
the extreme western tip of the old tract and the "castle" was assigned
to the estate's superintendent. It burned two years later. The new home
Alpine ViZZa,was to undergo many alterations and enlargements. Both the
Beidlers were ardent supporters of the country club, Mr. Beidler being
one of the 11 men present at the meeting in December, 1895, when plans
were laid for its formation.
Mrs. Ida M. Beidler too took up the game
in earnest, taking a leading role in the organization of tournaments for
the ladies. The couple's new steam yacht,Cygnet,was launched in July of
1892 and for almost two decades gave the rest of the lake fleet a run
for its money.
In 1921 Beidler sold the last of the vacant Cedar Point lakeshore lots
immediately east of Alpine Villa to F. B. Cozzens and Ignaz Schwinn, and
two years later his own home and a considerable amount of off-shore property were sold to subdividers. The latter combined this with the former
Fairbank holdings to create Cedar Point Park subdivision. The large A.H.
Beidler home was then divided into two smaller residences, one of which
still stands today.
Ignaz Schwinn, founder of the well known bicycle manufacturing firm
in 1895, built a handsome Victorian summer home in 1922 on his high rise
of land above the lake.
The estate greenhouses provided plantings each
spring for the beautifully landscaped gardens and drives.
Other buildings on the estate were designed in harmony with the main house.
The
story is told that while excavation for one of these structures was in
progress, workmen tmcovered an old foundation with what appeared to be a
The charming rose-brick home and the estate are today
moat around it.
maintained by third and fourth generation Schwinn family members.
in the late 20's changed
105
104
H1a1111tJat1
Home built 1890
Property subdivided
Private residence 1976
P. J. Healy and heirs (1890-1932)
ing against the young tars
couldn't hear their calls.
and the captain
of the excursion
steamer
At that very moment however, George Parker and his daughter Lelia were
seated on their porch on the north shore discussing a request of Lelia's
to spend the weekend in Chicago with friends.
"Father, do you hear that call?
Sounds like someone is shouting for
help," and Lelia leaned forward straining to hear above the wind.
"Probably just some young people enjoying themselves," her father replied.
"With the wind whipping up like this?
you hear it?"
I doubt it.
Listen,
now can
"I do indeed! I'll head down to the pier and get the Gadabout started
while you tell your mother where we are going. And hurry!"
P. J, Healy residence in 1895.
"Wind seems to be picking up. Think we'd better head back to Congress
Club. Besides, it's getting late, almost nine o'clock, I'd guess," and
skipper Mark Healy, turning toward his two crew members, Annie Jerrems
and Cliff Cutler, called out, "Ready about!"
But before they had a chance to respond a sudden gust of wind whipped
across the lake and caught the young sailors unawares, knocking them out
of the boat and turning the craft bottom-up. Sputtering and gasping the
three thrashed about in the dark, trying to get their bearings.
"Here Annie, grab on," called Mark, reaching out to pull Annie toward
the boat. "Where' s Cliff? Cliff, oh Cliff!"
"Never fear, old
the soaked and weary
this!
The poor old
laugh as he pictured
Cliff is here! Right on the other side," answered
sailor.
"Boy, wait until your father hears about
Runaway Giri turned turtle!" and Cliff started to
the scene.
Annie, too, began to laugh and between gasps she sputtered, "You are
going to take a lot of ribbing about this! Just imagine, the winner of
the Folly Cup!" But just then she slipped off and had to call for an
assist again.
"H'mm.
Considering your comments I should just let you thrash about
for a bit," replied Mark.
But shortly all three were again clinging to
the slippery bottom of Runaway Girl and beginning to consider some more
positive action.
''Hey,
shore?"
106
aren't those the lights of the Majestic coming down the south
"Hoy there, help. Over here, H-E-L-P!" but the wind was work-
Within a short time the Parkers had reachedthenow thoroughly chilled
and disgruntled sailors. After the relief of being rescued, and by good
friends at that, the trio had an important favor to ask of their deliverers. They hoped that this incident would go unmentioned.
After all,
they explained, they had their reputations as sailors to uphold. Having
been young "not that long ago," Mr. Parker readily agreed to the request.
But Lelia looked the other way to hide the mischievous twinkle in her eye
and carefully made no commitment.
The Patrick J. Healy family came to the lake with the first contingent
of Congress Club members who established their summer camp here in 1882.
Aside from the already thriving Camp Collie (now called Conference Point)
and a scattering of locally-owned farmhouses, the Bay area that year was
nothing but virgin forest beauty.
Seven years later when the Healys
purchased their own property a short distance north of the club, it was
The YMCA camp begun in 1884 was already
a different story entirely.
bulging at the seams of its original four-acre site, the first Rockford
people were tenting just west of Camp Collie on land leased from the Starn
family (a lease still honored today)and the extension of the Chicago and
Northwestern Railroad, from the newly incorporated city of Lake Geneva,
in June of 1888, was drawing great attention to this end of the lake.
Land sales would boomasrealtors bought up available tracts for development of a village.
At the age of 10 Patrick Healy, the youngest of 13 children, came to
Boston from Ireland with his parents. His first employment was found in
a music store as an errand boy, but when he was 24 he was offered charge
of a new branch in Chicago along with George W. Lyon. By 1870, only six
years later, Lyon and Healy had become the leading music firm in the entire West.
Both men were original stockholders in the Congress Club on
the west bank of Williams Bay, but Mr. Healy's growing family soon made
other arrangements necessary and he purchased several acres of shoreline
where he promptly built his comfortable home. By the mid-90's there were
four smaller structures surrounding it,all connectedtothe~main buildinr
by covered walkways.
Enlargement of the home by this method provided
1
9
bit more peace and privacy for this bustling family, for there were seven
Healy children and five of them under the age of ten!
But life for the parents was to be brief, unfortunately.
Mrs. Healy
(the former Frances Hannah) died in 1899 and her husband only five years
later.
A revealing story demonstrating the latter's well-known charity
during his lifetime was included with his obituary in a Chicago paper:
"Recently his secretary was asked why a certain charity committee was
closeted with him, as the same committee had been there a few mornings
before.
'Well,' the secretary said, 'Mr. Healy gave them a carriage
the last time they were here, and today they came for the horses."'
Lake Geneva, too, would be remembered with his generous donation of a
pipe organ to St. Francis Church.
Only a few years before, Mr. Healy
had published a Sunday school songbook, The Signet Ring, which proved a
continued sell-out chiefly due to the instant popularity of one particular number included therein: "The Sweet Bye and Bye," the work of Joseph
Webster of Elkhorn, Wisconsin, then relatively unknown.
The family remained closely tied after their parents' deaths, growing
up on the lake at the Healy "complex," the older sons taking over the
business reins. Three of the younger sons and Mary, the youngest girl,
were all overseas serving their country in World War I and July 4, 1919
was the occasion of an especially gala celebration when they all returned safely.
LOVELY LAKE GENEVA.
By
f
Both homes passed from family ownership about 1932.
The portion of
the property containing the original P. J. Healy home was subdivided but
the home itself still stands.
Interestingly, the name of another great
sailor and yachting record-breaker is currently linked with this home<
s·.
1(3
The Woods Brook portion, now known as Towering Elms, remains a private
estate.
HoLH~
·~~lE~=:c,--~,_ Jr::::3::::.:::~-~-0'[~-:_ -:· · J'S :·J • • ,"::S:'-::~=c:c
__cJF-·· :::~cc~'"'!'I;-+=E::.-l
c J:j~J=''-"B- :1"·=;::.:~
-~~tttJ-i~I
djtll JP]:giff! ~lJ~II~ t_Y~@-
,~~~=~~,y~-~---r;~~[:~';r~t~=~~::.;:~~:~~~-~~~~
~~~~:::w _:;r; J='~~~e_I_.-_.5 ti
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---
::::::-=-.-cc- -
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f'!h~-· rr~~f.f'~t;-4
~'J~!f1-~=~l:i:~~c~~};~~~-~~~bh . "'-~----:- -if.c!~J
lJhtf', . sky,
Subsequent marriages further increased the population at the Healy
place each summer, and so in 1919 eldest son Marquette A. Healy and his
wife Annie Jerrems (his accomplice in the overturned-sailboat caper)
built a handsome brick home, near the south boundary of the property, and
later purchased additional acreage to augment the grounds of their new
estate, Woods Brook. Their four children, Marquette Jr., Vincent, Anita
and Patricia pursued the sport of sailing with the same enthusiasm and
determination as their parents before them, and the name Healy is wellsprinkled throughout the records of the Lake Geneva Yacht Club.
R.
~~±H:!ij--, -S· "F
r~~:~
Woods Brook about 1920, home of M. A, Healy"
Ca.o.ln.t~
f:lt.. i -·-ly the
Clc•11.r in tby
~yl
th·ift_. ing,
· van lwau " ty,
. D-rit-'t.ing the.
Thy snn~Wt
long
w&
rlay
ters
thr1HlJ.!:ll,
liP;
*~-~¥f~~~~sg~~$~~~r==t==~E~I~!~~=5:=~~~
~
&&eked
on thy silf'ry
be • smn,
My head
Night spreads her glit'rlng man , tie, lkm"d with
+
l Je.y,
a stflr,
my head I
gem'dwith a
lay,
star,
~:=~==:t~
One of the many ballads written about Lake Geneva in its
heyday, this one published in 1885.
109
'ljre lrah
Home completed 1884
Burned 1916
Property subdivided 1921
W. S. Harbert (1884-1920)
actually taking college courses in the one dozen institutions which were
in 1861 allowing so shocking a thing. This list included 1 state university, 3 private coeducational schools and the balance in private women's
colleges. Their numbers were increasing rapidly during the Civil War as
more and more schools were forced to admit women just to keep operating
at all, for the young men were away on the battlefields. (By 1870 one of
every 9 college students would be a woman.
Quite a change!) Elizabeth
was one of these "pioneers," gaining her doctorate from Ohio Weslyan
University. She would continue this pattern the rest of her life; organizing the Evanston Women's Club, serving as officer of such organizations
as the World's Unity League, the National Household Economic Association,
the Illinois Equal Suffrage Association, Women's Civic League of Pasadena
and the Southern California Women's Press Association. She was also the
editor of Woman's KingdOm.
Tre Broah about 1885, residence of W. S. Harbert.
Tre Brah, the 14-acre estate of William Soesby Harbert of Evanston,
was completed shortly before the summer of 1884.
And our story would
begin and end right here if it weren't for Mrs. Harbert and her rather
amazing activities.
In terms of today her biography would not be startling: college graduate, PhD from a well known university, editor, lecturer, civic leader,
etc •... But we are not describing a woman of today. Elizabeth Morrison
Boynton was born in 1845!
"Young ladies of position" in her day were
properly sent to female academies where they were taught only the most
harmless of subjects and returned to their families as "finished," which
meant they were equipped to carry on just as their mothers and grandmothers had before them. They would of course marry (more often an older
gentleman of their father's choosing), bear children (who were promptly
turned over to nurses and governesses), and spend the rest of their days
as matriarchs, "receiving" on their established day, "calling" on the
others, balancing tea cups and embroidery hoops.
To do anything else
was really quite scandalous!
Elizabeth was properly graduated from the
Terre Haute Female Academy in 1862.
But Elizabeth wasn't "finished" as far as Elizabeth herself was concerned! A handful of more headstrong young ladies across the nation were
110
Elizabeth Harbert (1845-1925)
During the 31 years the Harberts summered at Tre Brah (the name was
merely their own, spelled backward), houseguests, parties and meetings
were the order of the day.
A frequent visitor was Rev. Dr. N.D.Hillis
who succeeded to the pulpitofChicago's Central Church upon the death of
Prof. Swing. The Harbert daughters Corrie and Bessie, both of whom were
students at Northwestern University in the mid 90's, entertained their
Delta Gamma sorority sisters when there was room either in the main house
or the guest cottage.
Son Arthur's propensity for kite construction
caused alarm back in Evanston in 1897 when one of his more sizeable productions with an electric light attachment was mistaken for an airship.
William Harbert, a Chicago attorney, frequently presided at various
intellectual conferences held at Tre Brah and the nearby R. B. McMullen
estate, the MQpZes, today the site of Oakwood Estates.
In attendance
were people prominently connected with extending the influences of the
111
mronlay
Home built about 1888
Church camp use 1976
W. J, Chalmers (1888-1918)
Harbet·t home in 1895.
World's Congress of Religions which had been held at Chicago during the
Columbian Exposition.
When these meetings outgrew the limited capacity
oftheHarbert and McMullen front parlors, Dr. Alice B. Stockham, another
Evanstonian, established a Summer School of Philosophy at Vralia Heights,
the property now known as Norman Barr Camp.
Topics taught or discussed
ranged from nature study and the esotericism of Beethoven to mentoculture
and sex during the 8-year existence of the school. Dr. Stockham had been
one of the pioneer female graduates of a Midwest school of medicine and
was instrumental in introducing "sloyd" into Chicago schools.
George Bullock residence near Congress Club~ 1884.
As the impeccable butler relieved the ladies of their fur wraps, the
matriarchal figure of Mrs. W. J. Chalmers advanced through the drawing
room archway to greet her guests this wintry afternoon of 1903.
T:re B:rah burned
to the ground in April, 1916, and was not rebuilt.
The property was subsequently platted by subdividers as Loch Vista Club.
"How delighted we are that you will assist us this afternoon. Has
Filsby seen to your needs properly? I'm so glad the snowfall was a light
one, but then we must expect snow in December, musn't we."
The women,
among them Mrs. Harold F. McCormick, Mrs. Stanley Field, Mrs. J. Ogden
Armour, Mrs. H. H. Porter, Jr., ~hss Helen Birch and Miss Edith Hoyt
would preside at the tea table during this "At Home," the second in a
series of such entertainments being held by Mrs. Norman Williams, Jr.,
the Chalmers' only daughter Joan, a recent bride.
Pausing briefly to
exchange pleasantries with the young Mrs. Williams, they proceeded to
the dining room where in addition to their duties they would guide conversation along the acceptable lines of the day.
With the holidays so
nearly upon them, discussion of forthcoming parties and balls was a certainty. ·
The hostess was thoroughly familiar with her role.
It was generally
accepted that Mrs. W. J. Chalmers was the Queen of Chicago's West Side
society and during the winter months, 234 South Ashland Boulevard was
her castle. Naturally she would appear in her diamond tiara (there was
112
113
only one other in all Chicagoland at that time,) whenever she held court
at opera openings or the annual charity balls.
The court moved to DronZey, the Chalmers' estate adjoining Congress
It is believed the land,
Club at Williams Bay, for the summer months.
together with a small cottage built in 1883, was purchased from George
Bullock of Congress Club in the late 1880's and that Mr. Chalmers perhaps
integrated the previous structure in constructing his summer home. CertainlyifMrs. Chalmers' father was alive today we would be more positive
of our facts, as he was none other than the renowned Allan Pinkerton,
who founded the detective agency, which later bore his name, in 1850.
National attention was his when he and his men (and one feminine colleague!) uncovered a plot to assassinate President-elect Abraham Lincoln
in February of 1861.
Within months he was asked by Lincoln to organize
a system for obtaining military information from the South and the men
Pinkerton trained for this task became this country's first Secret Service agents. By the time his only daughter Joan married W. J. Chalmers,
Pinkerton agencies were located in many major cities.
same year another addition was built on the house, a basement and wine
cellar constructed beneath it and "steam heat added to his (Chalmers')
already beautiful home."
And when the couple's steam yacht Thistle,
launched in 1892, burned and sank only 8 years laterather moorings, the
editors gave a full obituary.
Inside of a week Mr. Chalmers purchased
R. T. Crane's first Passaic and continued his lake cruises as usual.
William J. Chalmers, besides his memberships in all the leading city
clubs and societies, was a director of the Columbian Exposition, of the
Women's and Children's Hospital and a member at one time of the Chicago
School Board. He also served on the commission which made possible the
elevation of the Illinois Central Railroad tracks in 1892---and five
years later, the Chalmers joined the mass exodus of high society to the
North Side, when the deed caused their neighborhoods to be less fashionable.
But the couple's philantropic activities were legend, and even
today one may view specimens of the large Chalmers crystal collection at
the Field Museum.
Both the couple's children, son Thomas Stuart Pinkerton Chalmers and
daughter Joan Chalmers Williams, predeceased their parents by many years
and DronZey became a part of Conference Point Camp about 1919 when the
Chalmerses left the lake.
The Chalmers home, still standing today, is used for camp administration purposes.
Dronl-ey in 1898, residence of W. J. Chalmers.
As both of the Chalmers were of Scotch descent the name DronZey, after
the village from which his parents emigrated, was an agreeable choice.
William J.Chalmers and his father became partners in Fraser and Chalmers
in 1872 (he was only 20) and the company employed 60 men.
Less than 20
years later the firm was the largest manufacturer of mining machinery in
the world, employed over a thousand workers and had a London branch. In
1891 he was elected president of the corporation and engineered the consolidation with the E. P. Allis Company forming Allis-Chalmers that same
year, retiring as its president in 1906.
The great and near-great were guests at the estate through the years
and it was not at all unusual to read local news items telling of the
arrival of President Roosevelt's new Secretary of the Treasury or, General and Mrs. Frederick Dent Grant (son of Ulysses S.) or even the grand
opera diva Mary Garden (also a Chicagoan of Scotch heritage who claimed
Mrs. Chalmers as one of her very few intimate friends). It was also not
unusual to learn that "Mr. Chalmers' auto went to the city last week to
convey the President (William Howard Taft) to the Hamilton Club,"
the
news deemed worthy of no more than four lines of type. On the other hand
when Jens Jensen, the landscape architect, was hired to re-design the
grounds at DronZey in 1906, the editors were a bit more generous.
That
114
Dronley in 1906.
Joan Pinkerton Chalmers on her wedding day, 1877.
115
other."
'f;I
c'l(' ;:~~i~
11 11 ~~ ,~ ,I ~I"'"·~ 'ft ~
~~~~~~M~
Home begun 1892
Burned 1922
Property subdivided 1923
G. A. Weiss (1893-1899)
E. G. Uihlein (1899-1922)
With the November wind pushing at his back, the man, well-built and
conservatively dressed, strode down the shoreline purposefully, pausing
now and then to glance across the lake.
all things considered, I'm inclined to close the deal." That
Edward G. Uihlein headed toward the house where his wife was
Pausing on the steps of the Victorian villa, Edward turned for a final
look at the view before him and continued to muse.
It seemed hard to
believe he had been in Chicago 24 years.
At the time of the Great Fire
many of the smaller independent breweries were put out of business, at
least temporarily. As a result, the Schlitz brewery of Milwaukee, owned
by the Uihlein family, decided they could very profitably set up an outlet in Chicago. Edward had been selected to move to that city, oversee
the operations and assume the responsibility for the project. From that
time on, he and his branch of the family became Chicagoans, yet the ties
with Milwaukee would remain close. "In fact," he thought contentedly as
he stepped over a pile of crisp dry leaves on the porch, "this property
will be mid-way between the two cities. An ideal spot for family gatherings." This last discovery would surely sway Augustus if she was at all
hesitant about the purchase (and he really didn't think she was.) After
all, her sister had married his brother Charles, and since they lived in
Milwaukee, the distance would be just perfect for frequent visits.
The land on which George Weiss had built Villa Palatina in 1893 was
originally Forest Glen Park, a lovely public resort with hotel, cottage
Forest Glen (formerly ViLla PaLatina) around
1910, residence of E. G. Uihlein.
waiting.
He was anxious for Augustus' op1n1on of the home and hopeful
that their agent would be able to negotiate a fair price with George A.
Weiss, Chicago brewer and owner of Villa Palatina.
With a slight smile, Edward, vice-president of the Schlitz Brewing
Company by vocation and horticulturist by avocation, recalled Mr. Weiss'
comment, "Well, at least the property will pass from one brewer to an116
Residence of E. G. Uihlein, around 1910.
117
and camping facilities.
When laid out by M. C. Russell about 1870 it
consisted of well over 100 acres, but a small portion was sold in 1879
to form Belvidere Park. Forest Glen, its buildings mainly concentrated
on either side of a picturesque stream at its junction with the lake,
remained in operation until 1891.
John Johnston Jr. purchased the land
for resale, but almost immediately George Weiss became interested in the
majority of the property, especially the portion containing that lovely
little stream. The park buildings were sold individually and moved away
across the ice that winter to make way for the erection of his Villa
Palatina.
Weiss began a series of improvements, adding a well-stocked trout
pond, graveled walks and a handsome stone bridge with an 18-foot span
that rose to a height of five feet at the top of its graceful arch. A
rustic grotto and other stone work along the drives followed.
Illness
forced him to forego the rest of his plans, however, and the estate was
sold in the autumn of 1899.
Foremost among the
changes made by the E.G.
Uihlein family, the next
the name. They chose to
adopt the older title,
Forest Glen. The portion
west of the service road
contained a natural valley over half a mile long
which soon became better
known as the Uihlein Gardens.
Here Edward lavished a great deal of his
Edward Uihlein died in 1921. Nothing was salvaged from the disastrous
fire which destroyed the home in February, 1922, and the property was
sold that year to a subdivider. Part of the 88-acre estate became known
as the Gardens subdivision.
time, as well as consid-
erable investment.
The
valley was filled with
rich, fertile soil and
the hills beyond i t con·
tained numerous springs
which emptied into
a
brook that ran down the
center of the estate,
past the home, into the
lake.
To guide him in the
Gardens of the Uihlein estate about 1920.
tate, Edward engaged Jens
Jensen, an outstanding landscape architect.
Rustic dams were built,
creating charming waterfalls and mirror-like pools in Uihlein's beloved
valley.
At various spots spanning the brook were interesting bridges
which appeared to be made of logs and branches.
On closer inspection,
however, one discovered that they were actually constructed of concrete,
expertly molded by imported craftsmen.
Plants and trees from all over
the world were interspersed with those natural to the area.
These included the Japanese gingko, yucca lily, coffee tree, tulip tree, blood
118
When the Uihleins purchased the estate, the family consisted of five
children, ranging in age from 6-year-old Melita to 24-year-old Olga. The
latter married Henry Beneke, president of the Beneke Corporation, of Chicago. Her brother Edgar, two years younger, married Paula Huck of the
same city. The two youngest daughters wed Chicagoans too; Ella becoming
Mrs. Edwin Seipp and Melita marrying his brother William. The young men
were both sons of Conrad Seipp of Black Point. Clara, the second oldest,
turned to Milwaukee for romance, marrying Albert 0. Trostel of the tanning company of the same name.
The young Uihleins, like many of their generation, were avid and proficient sailors and were active in the Lake Geneva Yacht Club.
Their
father, in addition to his horticultural talents, was also possessed of
an especially fine singing voice. This, his family recalls, he was fond
of demonstrating at the slightest excuse.
owners of the estate, was
work of enhancing the es·-
leach, magnolia and Judas tree as well as evergreens, ordinarily not
found in southern Wisconsin. Edward himself supervised much of the work
of planting.
So pleased was he with the resulting beauty spot that he
invited local residents to walk about freely on the property west of the
road.
The area was therefore well-known to at least two generations of
Fontana citizens.
Edward had also during this period begun collecting
rare orchids as a hobby, and through diligent research he produced and
maintained many outstanding varieties.
01k1
Home built 1875
Razed 1974
Property subdivided
Edward E. Ayer and heirs (1875-1941)
that the accepted costume of women swimmers at that time (1879) consisted of knee-length woolen dresses with full, heavy skirts, ponderous wool
bloomers, mop cap and long stockings! The achievement proved only a beginning for Mrs. Ayer, however; she continued her swims across the lake
until well into her 70's.
Mrs. Ayer's interests and concerns led her into many interesting projects, as both she and her husband were inveterate travelers and explorers. In the early 1890's, ~hen a trip through the Grand Canyon was considered not only difficult but dangerous, the Ayers traveled the route.
A few years later they persuaded the Martin Ryersons,Charles Hutchinsons
and Frank Johnsons (their daughter and son-in-law) to join them on a
second trip through the canyon. This time they headed West in a private
railroad car, promising to undertake the expedition only if the weather
conditions were excellent ..•. which they were, fortunately.
"Emma Burbank Ayer, I insist that at least one rowboat accompany you
on this .... this undertaking, if you persist!"
"But of course, Edward. I was hoping that you would accompany me, at
least in the boat if not' in the water."
Mrs. Edward Everett Ayer, nee Emma Burbank, bride of 14 years, mistressofboth the Oaks and a Chicago town house, and mother of Elizabeth,
had determined to swim across the lake from Harvard Camp to Camp Collie.
She would not be the first, for just a few weeks ago another Harvard
woman had successfully attempted the feat. Yet that did not deter Emma,
an excellent swimmer, as she was undertaking this adventure simply for
the pleasure and challenge, not for the record.
Her attempt indeed was successful. A local paper observed "that Mrs.
Edward E. Ayer had last week accomplished the feat of swimming from Harvard Camp to Camp Collie in 2 hours and 10 minutes .... Harvard holds the
laurels for the best lady swimmers, married and unmarried, and now we
want to hear from the boys.
Gentlemen, if you can't beat the ladies
swimming, it is useless to talk about depriving them of the ballot any
longer."
Rustic bridge at the Oaks about 1885,
By 1903 Edward had crossed the ocean a total of 24 times and his wife
28. These trips, unlike those made by many of their friends, were for
study, research and investment in art and artifacts, and were not meant
as mere excursions of the idle rich (a term that would hardly apply to
either of the Ayers). Chicago museums as well as the local Northwestern
Military Academy were the fortunate recipients of many of the fine collections obtained through these travels.
Without Ayer's determined persuasion, Marshall Fieldmight never have
agreed to contribute the million dollars to the fund which financed the
Field Columbian Museum of Natural History, a memorial to the 1893 expoSltlon.
Field later made other contributions, as did many of our lakeshore residents, including Mrs. George Sturges.
Ayer served as
the
To fully appreciate this accomplishment, a modern reporter might note
121
120
museum's first president from 1893 to 1898.
He donated his large collection of Indian artifacts and his library of illustrated books
on
ornithology, as well as many antiquities from Egypt, Italy and other
lands.
Edward E. Ayer (1841-1927)
The Oaks about 1902.
In addition, his credits include service as trustee of the Newberry
Library, trustee of the Art Institute, president of the Archaeological
Society, and as an active member of the Wisconsin State Historical Society, the American History Association and the Chicago Historical Society.
He also served on the Board of Indian Commissioners, and in the latter
capacity often visited the Menominee reservation.
The Ayer farms were considered to be among the best developed in the
county. Because of Mr. Ayer's interests in agriculture and in the study
of minerals and proper soil ingredients necessary for top yields, his
two farms, Upland I and Upland II, were outstanding showplaces.
The
fertility of the soil on these properties annually produced an exceptionally high yield.
Mrs. Ayer was busy too, and while not a very active member of the
Fortnightly Club of Chicago, she was interested in the goals and ideals
of the group. In 1911 she published A Motor Trip Flight Through ALgeria
and Tunisia. It was her interest and enthusiasm that laid the foundation
for the Lake Geneva Fresh Air Association, the builder and supporter of
Holiday Home.
In fact both of the Ayers were deeply committed to this
project.
While the main dormitory was being built, they crossed the
lake almost daily to check on the progress.
As had many of their fellow lakeshore neighbors, the Ayers selected
their estate, the Oaks, as the site of the marriage of their only daughter, Elizabeth, to Dr. Frank S. Johnson in September 1890.
The wedding
party included many summer residents: Kellogg and Helen Fairbank, Lida
Rumsey, Benton Sturges, Mary Sturges, Bonnie Withrow. Professor Swing,
a favorite of lake residents, performed the ceremony.
Their summer home, the Oaks, was located immediately east of the area
known as Harvard Camp. Edward's parents had been early settlers in this
state, first in Kenosha and then later in the Fontana-Harvard, Illinois
area. Edward claimed he came to the lake initially in 1845, "practically
discovering it," he'd say with a twinkle in his eye. After establishing
himself in the railroad commission business and organizing Ayer and Lord
Tie Company, specializing in railroad ties, he and his wife decided to
erect a summer residence here. The home was unpretentious and considered quite modest when built in 1875.
Additions through the years added
greatly to the comfort of the family and guests and also to the charm of
the original structure. It was the grounds, however, (eventually totaling 1200 acres) that attracted comment. Mrs. Ayer was fond of wildflowers and their gardener, Henry Tolman, won many awards for these, as well
as for cultivated blooms, at th~ annual Flower Shows of the Lake Geneva
Garden Club.
122
All through the late 1890's and early 1900's the Oaks was the scene
of many happy gatherings, for the Ayers were well-loved, not only by
their host of lakeshore friends, but by the local residents as well.
Their steam yacht Tula often carried as many as 60 guests on rides about
the lake.
Edward Ayer died in 1927, but Emma returned to the estate annually
until her death 5 years later. Their daughter kept the home until 1941.
At that time it was sold to a church group which had established Camp
Aurora on a nearby tract a few years earlier.
Another portion became
a subdivision known as the Ayer Park Association.
Today Abbey Springs
subdivision occupies the site of the Ayer home (razed only recently) and
most of the adjoining property.
Only the sturdy wall which parallels
the road, the caretaker's house and boathouse (now a private residence)
remain of the original buildings.
123
Westgate
Home begun 1917
Property subdivided 1940
Private residence 1976
Gertrude Allen and heir (1918-1940)
"Oh Mother, you will like it ever so much better than Kenosha in the
summer.
You'll see."
27-year-old Gertrude Allen turned toward her
mother, Mrs. Charles W. Allen, and continued, "Here, don't mind those
packing boxes.
Mrs. Rowlands, the caretaker's wife, has promised to
help keep the stuff and such under control .... Oh, don't you just love
it?" and spinning around, Gertrude spread her arms wide.
"My dear, do contain yourself.
I really don't know where you get
your ideas! Imagine, dragging that architect all the way over from England just to supervise this project.
What did your brothers say about
that?
Having an English-style country house is one thing, but really,
don't you think an American architect could have sufficed?"
"Now Mother, you can stop calling the man 'that architect' for you
know his name perfectly well.
As for the boys, they think it's a marvelous idea.
As they pointed out, this way they didn't have to keep
driving over from Kenosha to check things out for us. So you see, it is
all working out simply delightfully.
I'm so pleased Mr. Ayer agreed to
sell me the property, for I wasn't sure at first that he really wanted
to part with the land. Mrs. Ayer tells me that they have walked over to
observe the progress now and then."
Mrs. Allen momentarily wondered what the Ayers thought of the project
but then decided not to dwell on such things. After all, Gertrude was a
~rown,
determined young woman and perhaps the lake WOULD be nicer than
Kenosha for the summers .... but she would miss her beloved Lake Michigan,
of that she was certain.
Gertrude Allen
and her mother,
Ella French Allen,
had moved to New
Rochelle, New York, after the untimely death of their father and husband
in 1911.
Both the French and the Allen families were pioneers in the
very earliest days of Kenosha.
Gertrude's grandfather was the first
manufacturer in that city and his firm, N. R. Allen's Sons, was passed
on to her father, Charles, and his brother Nathan in 1890.
Charles had
soon afterward organized the Central Leather Company and the sale of the
Allen tanneries to this latter company formed the basis of the family
fortune. Gertrude and her brothers had inherited a sizeable amount in
cash and stock when their father accidentally fell through a window of
the Palmer House (they were dangerously low and unbarred at that time)
during a dizzy spell.
Gertrude had decided to have a summer estate at
our lake---the home of her dreams---and sought her mother's approval by
pointing out the latter could see more of her grandchildren and family
if the home were large enough to accommodate them all during the warm
months. Mrs. Allen relented.
While the main home was still being constructed, Gertrude married
George R. Westgate, reputedly a New York podiatrist.
The couple spent
the summer of 1918 here, where Gertrude, who was expecting their first
child, continued to direct and supervise construction details and organize decorating plans.
Returning to New Rochelle that fall, she fell
victim to the dread influenza epidemic. Statistically, the flu outbreak
was the most destructive in history; some compared it to the Black Death.
In a few month's time more than 20 million persons died, either directly
or as a result of complications.
548,000 of these were U. S. citizens;
one of these was Gertrude Allen Westgate. In a court judgement the following year, Mr. Westgate inherited the bulk of his wife's estate and
this included the property and home at Lake Geneva.
The home upon completion was typical of a large English manor house,
with over a dozen variously sized gables interestingly placed.
The imported British architect, following Miss Allen's instructions, was most
precise about construction details.
He insisted on checking each stage
of progress again and again. Built of granite blocks, the outside walls
were two feet thick. Solid concrete formed the 145-foot foundation; the
roof was cypress shakes. A handsome cut-stone wall, built to last many
generations, outlined the original 22 acres.
Also part of the estate
plan,and completed before the main house,was a coach house with generous
living accomodations.
The principle rooms
of the summer mansion
were conspicuously large.
An over-sized fireplace in the dining room, reminiscent ofanold castle,
Westgate about 1926, residence of G. R. Westgate.
124
reputedly caused great consternation among the workmen; the architect
had them tear it down twice while he strived for absolute perfection in
detail and workmanship.
In the living room a pink granite fireplace
dominated almost the entire 22-foot wall.
Of course it was this very
stone work which necessitated the prolonged construction time for the
home, but the end result was lovely.
On the second floor, a wing was
provided for children, with bedrooms opening to a large central room intended first as a playroom and later to serve as a recreation area. The
basement was also designed for sports and games, and a bowling alley,
billiard and pool tables and hobby rooms were located there.
The home,
when finally completed in the early 1920's, was both sturdy and handsome
and would have no doubt been a source of great pleasure to its origin125
lchoe1
ator, had she lived to see it.
Home completed 1896
Property subdivided 1957
Private residence 1976
George P. Braun (1896-1913)
Amariah G. Cox (1913-1941)
When Mr. Westgate sold the estate in 1940, a large portion to the
east containing the guest house became Eastgate .. a separate estate. The
remainder of the original property has been subdivided several times,
but the main house remains a private residence with a generous lakeshore
frontage.
Echoes about 1903, residence of G. P, Braun.
Amariah Cox wasn't entirely sure whether he wholly approved of the
idea or not. As his wife Angie had observed, "Well, what is the difference between keeping common ducks and swans or having that most majestic
of all birds, the peacock?"
When he got right down to it, A. G. decided he didn't quite follow
her line of reasoning. And yet, after all, what possible harm could be
done by a few peacocks gracing the lovely lawns of Pleasant HiZZ? He
capitulated by suggesting that a house and pen be built and that the
birds be placed in the safe area every evening by the gardener.
The
sight of these birds strutting about, as well as many other treasured
memories, are recalled by friends.
126
127
The estate, originally named the Echoes> was developed in 1895 by
George P. Braun, whose home, designed by Henry Lord Gay, was completed
the following spring.
Mr. Braun was determined to have the most modern
and most efficient operation on the lake that first year, and the local
reporters gave his efforts full attention.
Hence the layout of a pumping system to carry lake water and household wastes is a matter of public
record forever, but of the family itself little notice was given. His
new naphtha launch Ma:t'tha arrived in 1896, of that we can be certain.
The editor of the News reported it was launched "last Friday," while his
competition down the street at the Herald seemed to think the boat did
not even arrive from New York until Monday!
(But then, Lake Geneva was
a bustling city of almost 2500 souls by 1896---hard to cover all the
happenings each week.)
According to a man who knew him, George P. Braun was a "fat, jolly
fellow" who made his fortune as a partner in Braun and Fitts, "churners
of oleomargarine."
Short supply during war years has more than once
produced a happy substitute (i.e. nylon in World War II.) So it was in
the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, when a German chemist, Dr. Margarine by
name, formulated a butter substitute.
The idea didn't catch on in the
United States, however, until the late 80's when some of our more critical housewives had had enough of animal hairs, bits of straw and what
have you, in their butter pails (there were no government pure food regulations then). Oleo, or butterine, was a cleaner product, and the good
ladies knew it.
Mr. Braun's future was assured almost from the day of
incorporation in 1889.
When he was still a comparatively young man in
his late 40's, he made a double decision: first, to take in an additional partner as manager, and second, to enjoy life and his money a little.
The Echoes was the answer to the latter; John F. Jelke answered the requirements of the former. After Mr. Braun's death, Jelke purchased the
company and thereafter the product was known as Jelke's "Good Luck"
brand.
Few people any longer associate it with our Mr. Braun unfortunately. By the late 90's the Jelkes, too, were frequent lake visitors
Usually they accepted the hospitality of the Echoes for short stays, but
on at least one occasion they leased Professor Swing's estate for an
entire summer.
Mr. Braun's relaxation
on the water with his boats, the
which replaced the more dangerous
naphtha model in 1901.
Although he persisted in attempts to win trophies at the Lake Geneva Yacht Club races, the results of his efforts
were neatly illustrated by a local editor in September, 1898, who said,
"The 18-foot rater race saw George Braun come in last. Braun has a good
boat but it don't seem to be 'in it' with those lower lake fellows." But
George kept right on trying and his son George carried on the Braun tradition after his father's death in 1905.
also obtained an exclusive franchise to sell hygienic calcimine for an
Omaha firm anywhere he wished as long as he remained east of the Missouri
River.
In both endeavors he was highly successful---even to the extent
that the paint company was forced to build an extra factory in Chicago
just to keep up with the orders he brought in.
Educated in upstate New
York as a mathematics teacher, he was especially well equipped to keep
the branch office running efficiently and economically and soon realized
that his substantial achievements were increasing profits unbelievably
for the Rubber Paint Company while personally gaining him nothing. Borrowing every cent he could to make a $50,000 down payment, he purchased
the paint firm in 1892.
Included in the sale was a smaller affiliate,
the Zeno Manufacturing Co., which was producing chewing gum for a limited market. Mr. Cox at this point had to increase his sales tremendously
in order to pay off the annual notes due on his purchase.
One of his
customers was a certain struggling soap salesman named William Wrigley,
Jr. who was then toying with the use of gum as a premium to increase his
own sales.
The rest of the story is legend.
Mr. Wrigley gave up soap
and formed his own company to sell gum. Mr. Cox moved all the Cleveland
factories to Chicago and the Zeno company began manufacturing gum under
the Wrigley label.
In 1911 Mr. Wrigley bought out the Zeno Co. and Mr.
Cox became vice-president and treasurer of the William Wrigley Jr. Co.
The gum business had been so good that by the end of 1907 he had already
sold the paint factories.
In 1913 then, A. G. Cox began taking the first real vacations he had
had in his long career of 18-20 hour work days. These he enjoyed at his
Pleasant Hill with his second wife, Angie.
Frequent guests were his
grandson A. G. Atwater and two granddaughters, Helen Atwater (who would
marry Philip K. Wrigley in 1917), and Olive Atwater (later to become
Mrs. George Getz.)
was gained
Helen and the 42-foot gasoline launch
Amariah G. Cox, who purchased the estate in 1913 renaming it Pleasant
came to Chicago in the late 1870's as the branch manager for the
Rubber Paint Company of Cleveland.
Not only did he sell paint but he
Hill,
128
A. G. Cox (1849-1941)
Following the death of Mr. Cox in 1941, the estate was sold intact.
Since 1957 it has been known as the Brookwood subdivision, but the old
main house is still easily recognizable.
129
YiUa 'rh1Jda
Home completed 1894
Property partly subdivided 1974
Private residence 1976
T. A. Kochs (1894-1901)
J. C. Fleming (1901-1920)
A. F. Madlener and heirs (1920-present)
Chicago, Illinois
October 7, 1920
My Dear Alma,
We thank you for your note of last week and agree that it would be
best for you and William to spend Thanksgiving in St. Louis with his
parents, the Hays. We shall miss you both, dear Sister, particularly as
have some good news and had hoped to surprise you when you arrived.
You see, we have just purchased the Fleming home at the Lake. That's
our news. It's a perfect estate for us, for, as you will remember, it
is immediately adjacent to our beloved Black Point (I still slip and use
the name "Die Loreley" if I'm not careful).
With its 55 acres, a thousand feet of shoreline and that marvelous, gracious home, we won't have
to go through the pains of building. Certainly we shall have ample room
to spread out.
To indicate the family's enthusiasm, I must tell you that Albert Jr.
and the twins, William and Otto, headed out to the lake yesterday and
enlisted the help of the cousins to move our sailboats over from Black
Point to the new house. Of course the young people are delighted that
we will still be nearby.
A little more about the home, which fortunately is a fine American
country place in every sense of the word. You know I've never been fond
of transplanted castles and chateaus, despite their popularity with some
of our friends. The accommodations and plan of the house should be perfect for guests---and hopefully later on, for daughters-in-law and grandchildren.
(Gracious, I seem to forget that you are almost as familiar
with the house as I! Now that we are actually going to live there, everything takes on a different hue.)
We have discussed a few changes and I think that the clutter of those
railinged verandas surrounding the house now, will be removed. We shall
have one very large open porch, with possibly a bricked terrace or two
instead.
Another change will be that of the name.
When the home was
built in 1894 by Theodore A. Kochs, it was called Villa Thekla after his
wife.
It was the Kochs who planted the hundreds of linden trees about
the property which I have always loved. By the way, I've only now heard
an interesting fact about the Kochs. He owned the company that manufactured barber chairs and other supplies, as you know. But what we didn't
know was that they had been regular vacationers at Kayes Park for years,
just as Father and Mother Seipp had been when you and I were very young.
Strange that I don't seem to remember their two children from that time;
our older sisters do, however.
130
Shore scene at Villa Thekla about 1902.
When John C. Fleming purchased the estate in 1901, he renamed it the
Do you recall my describing the perfectly lovely wedding two
years ago when their granddaughter Jeanette Jennings married A. F. Gartz
Jr.?
The home and grounds were especially beautiful that day.
I knew
I liked the place then but never dreamed we would own it!
Highlands.
We've already talked with John Erickson who will remain as caretaker,
and I feel confident that under his guiding hand (coupled with some of
our own ideas), our gardens will be a delight for all.
I do intend to
enter the Lake Geneva Garden Club show next summer and am looking forward to meeting again with Mr. Erickson. Just think, after loyally supporting the Black Point entries these many years, I will now be competing with them at the Flower Show. It will be friendly however, and fun.
131
We shall take possession of our "new" horne long before next summer
though. In fact Albert's most beloved books from our library here in the
city are already being chosen and packed, and I've ordered a new piano
for the living room. With these additions we should begin to feel quite
at horne at the Lindens.
Black Poin.t
Horne complete 1888
Private estate 1976
Conrad Seipp and heirs (1888-present)
The guest suite on the first floor will always be ready. for you and
William (and comfortably warm too, I might add, as Mr. Fleming installed
central heating ten years ago).
We look forward to a visit there with
you during the Christmas holidays.
Your loving sister,
Elsa
The Lindens was developed by the Albert F. Madleners into one of the
showplaces on the lakeshore.
Three greenhouses were meticulously cared
for by the gardeners, one for vegetables, a second for cut flowers and a
third for seedlings. Magnificent flowering borders delighted the family
guests as well as the public, who viewed them either from the lakeshore
path or from the excursion boats. Although a small section of the propperty was sold in the early 1970's for the Lindens subdivision, the main
home and remainder of the estate are still owned by descendents of the
Madlener family,
Black Point in 1895, residence of Mrs. Conrad Seipp.
It was the fall of 1888 and the colors about the lake area were particularly lovely that year. Clear, crisp mornings were followed by warm
afternoons and cool, still evenings.
It was on such an autumn day that
Conrad Seipp viewed the panorama from the 4-story tower of his newly
completed home. It had been a good summer, this first one in a place of
their own.
A slight smile crossed his features as memories of the family's many years at Kayes Park began to flood his mind.
"Why last year
there were, let me see," Conrad mused, "at least 15 of us there at one
time."
He and his son and their families had rented the large 10-room
cottage for themselves.
But there had been other summers at the park;
some were shared with his daughter, Marie Seipp Lefens, her husband and
children.
Conrad's thoughts wandered on as the early afternoon breeze rustled
the maple and oak leaves far below.
He looked out upon the lake, his
eyes squinting a bit as he tried to identify one of the boats heading
toward the pier at Williams Bay.
His thoughts returned to his family
and home. He had indeed been fortunate.
His three eldest children had
now
presented
him
with
nine
fine
grandchildren.
The happy marriage
by
132
133
to Catharina Orb, his second wife, had been blessed with four lovely
daughters and Conrad Jr., now five years old. "They certainly manage to
keep things humming," he noted.
Then, with a start, he realized he had
been talking aloud and decided it was time to get about his business.
Having learned the fine points of the carpenter trade from his father
in Germany, Conrad could appreciate the craftsmanship in his own homes
and, as he descended the tower stairs and crossed the broad hallway, he
admired the beautifully executed wood trimmings and mouldings.
The site for the home had been carefully selected.
It commanded a
magnificent view of the lake from any number of vantage points.
Its
architect, Arthur Cudell, who had also drawn plans for the Seipp's new
Chicago residence built this same year, took pains to assure that little
would interfere with that view.
Several years in the leased cottage at
Kayes Park had given the Seipps definite ideas about the needs for comfortable vacation living.
"We must have enough room for all the family
to visit. I do want the children to feel at home here, and I do so want
them to bring the grandchildren," Catharina had insisted.
So the large
three-story home did indeed have bedrooms aplenty. Summers in the hand.some Victorian villa became a tradition, although Mr. Seipp died in 1890
after only two brief summers at his estate.
Blaok Point about 1924.
When Conrad Seipp came to this country
hotel at the corner of Washington and Wells
it for five years, he sold it and purchased
Brewing Company was a great success for by
incorporated, production had increased from
in 1849, he started a small
in Chicago.
After managing
a small brewery.
The Seipp
1876, when the business was
1,000 to 100,000 barrels.
The original lakeshore property purchased by the couple in 1887 consisted of a 27-acre portion of a prominence long known as Black Point.
In recent years a resort park had been established there, but the demand
for private estate footage was so great that the 50-odd acres of Warwick
0. D. Wetherell and G. B. Shaw purchased half of
Park were soon sold.
these in 1885; Conrad Seipp acquired the rest. The piece had been popularly called Black Point for so long that the family had little choice
in the name. Black Point it was, and so it remains today.
134
Conrad Seipp (1825-1890)
The steam yacht Die LoreZey was launched in the spring of 1890. First
and foremost it was used to provide transportation, as were all of the
boats on the lake in those early days.
The railroad by this time ended
in Williams Bay and this was the departure point for most lakeshore residents who were city-bound. One of the grandchildren recalled with fond
memories the sound of the early morning activities on the boat.
The
engineer and his assistant would go down to the pier about dawn to stoke
up in order to have the boat ready to depart in time to catch the train.
Certain noises accompanied this morning ritual---the shoveling of coal,
the muffled voices floating up to the main house through the stillness,
the final test-blast of the steam whistle, alerting everyone. The yacht
carried family, guests and adjoining property owners---in short, anyone
who either had no boat of his own or simply preferredtojoin the Seipps.
Boats were used for pleasure too.
Another treasured memory of the
family concerned the impromptu concerts of a Sunday afternoon. The Crane
yacht Passaic would drop anchor off Black Point and one of Mrs. Crane's
favorite Wagnerian opera recordings would be played on a large Victrola
kept on the aft deck.
The veranda of Black Point would gradually fill
with various members of this music-loving family as the sounds of the
familiar classics floated up from the lake below. After this it was the
Seipps' turn to select the music and allow the Cranes to settle back to
enjoy the drifting notes of a Schubert or Brahms selection.
Olaf Benson, landscape architect for the City of Chicago, developed
the grounds of the estate originally, and through the years various
plantings were added by family members.
Hundreds of spruce and Norway
pine were put in at the direction of Mrs. Seipp and Conrad, Jr. Loving
care of the forest has ever been a cornerstone of the family's landscaping plans.
About 1904 the Shaw-Wetherell properties were purchased and
added to the total acreage of the estate, along with the former Baker
farm of about 53 acres.
By
1910 the big house
was humming with activity.
Clara had married
135
Henry Bartholomay, Jr., and their three children, Henry II, Catherine
and Elsa enjoyed the company of their cousins, of which there were many.
Elsa Seipp and her husband Albert Madlener together with their three
sons, Albert Jr., William and Otto, spent a great deal of time at Black
Point until their purchase of the Lindens.
Emma Seipp had married Dr.
Otto Schmidt, often called the "father of yacht sailing on Geneva," and
their son Ernst and two daughters, Alma and Clara, were avid sailors as
well.
Competition among all the family was spirited and challenging,
but fun.
Marie Seipp and her husband T. J. Lefens had bui 1t their own
home just east of the family estate, and visits back and forth were frequent, although their four children were by then quite adult.
Children, especially, enjoyed the home, and reminders of their presence remained noticeable through the years.
Their musical instruments
were scattered about the music room---sometimes in other rooms as well,
as children will do·---but even the confusion resulting from the young
musicians' attempts was always welcomed.
Their various collections
were also proudly displayed, whether they were shells, Indian relics,
fossils or the more mundane baseballs---all were on view to be enjoyed.
Conrad Seipp had indeed left a legacy.
His family and descendants
found such roots at Black Point that they remain today. After the death
of Mrs. Seipp in 1920, the Schmidts and Bartholomays purchased the property from her estate. While two parcels have been more recently sold to
other lakeshore families, the property has never been subdivided.
The rented rowboat glided through the lagoon opening and the dapper
young man handling the oars rested them against the transom without permitting so much as a drop of water to fall on the young lady's flowered
muslin dress. The couple, out for a row and looking for a bit of adventure, had found the lagoon quite by chance and, being inquisitive, had
entered to look about. Moored inside were three graceful steamers, the
Mocking Bird (owned jointly by members of the Englewood Club), the Jewel
(0. D. Wetherell's brand new boat) and the RambZer (Mr. Wetherell's old
one, still awaiting a buyer).
Linn Haven, residence of 0. D. Wetherell, about 1895.
"A true adventure ... this private lagoon and the two lovely houses, so
alike ... what fun!"
The young girl impulsively leaned forward and in a
stage whisper asked, "Do you think we could dock and walk about?"
Straightening a bit, Tom cleared his throat as he answered, "Now you
know better than that, Betsy. This is enough of an adventure, thank you.
We'll ask about this pace when we return the rowboat, but first we'll
get out of here before someone sees us." And with that the boat returned
to the lake, the couple ducking their heads as they passed under a small
wooden drawbridge.
Behind them were indeed two mirror-image homes: the one Linn Haven
belonging to 0. D. Wetherell and the other Hill View owned by G.B. Shaw.
If the two families were not in some way related, then most certainly
they were the closest of friends for whatever they did it was always together.
After summering many seasons at the Wetherell home at the corner of Lake and Campbell streets in the village, they had purchased adjoining lots here on the south shore where their twin houses were built
in 1886-7.
"It's so lovely and peaceful in here, Tom.
Why, look at the water,
it looks like apiece of glass .... no, more like a mirror, I should think,
and doesn't ... " The girl paused in mid-sentence and a puzzled look came
over her face as she glanced at the water and then back over her shoulder
at the shore.
"Why I don't believe it, I just don't believe it!
Tom,
look, those two houses, why they're mirror-images of one another. For a
moment I thought perhaps I was seeing a double reflection. How strange."
Her companion turned and carefully compared the two houses with their
counterparts in the water.
The quietness of the summer day, the stillness all about, and now the unusual scene caused the two to smile, then
chuckle softly and finally burst into peals of quickly muffled laughter.
136
Hilt View, residence of G. B. Shaw in 1895.
137
Oscar Daniel Wetherell had his own lumber yard in Chicago by the time
he was 29 and thereafter branched into storage elevators, planing mills
and banking. In 1890 he turned over his interests in his Wetherell Bank
and formed the Globe Bank.
His financial acumen was so well known and
highly respected that despite the fact he was an active Republican alderman, he was appointed City Comptroller by Mayor Harrison, a Democrat.
After his first wife died in 1883 he again married and was the father of
seven children.
Late in 1903 the Wetherells and the Shaws sold their properties and
homes to their neighbor, Mrs. Seipp, and shortly after the houses were
razed.
Lefenslstate
Home begun 1894
Razed about 1949
Property subdivided 1965
Theis J. Lefens and heirs (1894-1947)
"Watch now, coming right up .... no, no, the next pier." The captain
of the steamer Wilbur F., Jr. was talking to a number of travelers as
the boat approached the pier toT. J. Lefens, just down the shore a bit
from that of his mother-in-law, Mrs. Conrad Seipp.
"You won't believe it. I tell you this little cocker spaniel, "Nero"
think they call him, trots out every day, rain or shine, and I MEAN
rain or shine, to catch the TRIBUNE between his teeth and deliver it
back to the main house. That little guy is really something! Here now,
watch sharply. He'll be down on the pier before we arrive."
And indeed Nero was awaiting the arrival of the paper boat and deftly
caught the paper between his jaws, marching back up the dock toward the
house. Hastening to meet him that early summer morning of 1898 were the
two younger Lefens children, 13-year-old Marie (later Mrs. Frank Porter)
and 12-year-old Katherine.
The girls were as delighted with the daily
routine as were the people watching for the first time from the boat.
"Come on, here Nero, here Nero." They called in vain, for Nero would
not be waylaid and kept a steady, determined pace as he padded up the
path to the main house. Up the front steps he marched, and between the
columns onto the porch where, with ever so light a show of impatience,
he waited for the door to be opened by the servant who took the paper.
That duty accomplished, Nero's attention turned to more important dog
matters such as chasing squirrels.
T. J. Lefens estate about 1895.
The two girls joined the rest of the family at breakfast. Conversation
138
139
about the table was lively, for 19-year-old Meta and 15-year-old Walter
were discussing the regatta scheduled for the coming weekend.
There
would be a great deal of rivalry just within the family alone as their
uncles, Dr. Otto Schmidt, Henry Bartholomay and Albert Madlener, would
all be actively competing. Meta was eagerly anticipating the arrival of
her aunt Hattie's daughter, Elsa Bareiss, who would be coming from Germany for a visit.
Marie Seipp Lefens looked across the table at her husband and they
both smiled a bit at the enthusiasm of the children and their grand
plans.
Thinking back to the many summers which she herself had spent
at the lake, Marie could easily understand how much the children looked
forward to the beginning of the season.
Since 1883, Marie and Theis J. Lefens had passed at least part, if
not all, of each summer at Lake Geneva, first at Kayes Park with her
father and his family, and then at Black Point after the big house had
been built. In 1892 the Lefens had purchased this tract of land. Their
own summer home was completed the spring of 1894.
Though perhaps not
quite as elaborate as the Seipp mansion, it was still anything but a
mere cottage.
AUtim
Home begun 1905
Property subdivided 1949
Private residence 1976
J. B. Grommes and heirs (1906-1948)
"Say John, how is the earth moving project coming along?" asked N. K.
Fairbank as he turned to his friend with a twinkle in his eye.
The two
men were ascending the stairs from the locker room at the Lake Geneva
Country Club, headed for the veranda and a bit of refreshment.
After a
successful round of golf, J. B. Grommes was more than happy to sit down
and discuss his latest project, one which had the attention of most of
the lakeshore residents.
Before Grommes had an opportunity to begin, three others joined them,
Henry Porter, George Walker and 0. W. Potter. He found all were equally
as curious about the "earth moving project," as Fairbank had called it.
"Say, if you are not too tired, let me show you the progress and you may
judge for yourselves," Grommes suggested.
A corner of the large living room was devoted to games, a favorite
family pastime, at a magnificently hand-carved rosewood table which had
matching chairs.
The cheerful morning room provided a most pleasant
place for correspondence.
As in many of the early wooden residences in
which fire was ever a threat, the kitchen was in a back wing of the home
and separated from the large dining room and butler's pantry by a porchlike passageway.
A beautiful entrance hall featured a gigantic grandfather's clock and graceful circular staircase.
Six generously-sized
bedrooms were located on the second floor; and on the third level, in
addition to a large guest room overlooking the lake, were servants quarters.
Many of the household help were brought here from Germany by the
Lefens and, as few of these spoke English, and very few of the rest of
the servants spoke German, there were occasional minor difficulties.
There was general agreement, first because the Grommes property adjoined the country club on the west, and second, because all men are
sidewalk (or field) superintendents at heart.
J. B. began to explain
some of the problems involved as they crossed the vacant property between the club and the site of his home-to-be.
"You'll recall this was
all low marsh land.
Why there are some spots along here that took
nearly 20 feet of fill."
Serving the family loyally almost three decades was the head gardener
whose specialty was gladioli.
A particularly glowing red variety which
Each
he developed was named "Marie Lefens" in honor of his employer.
weekend without fail, all the weeds would be painstakingly plucked from
the long drive and its gravel carefully raked and leveled.
Vegetables
were grown in terraced hillside beds and, as at Black Point, special
attention was given to preserving as much as possible of the estate's
forest heritage.
"Amazing, amazing," several of the men were heard to murmur.
"Ah,
but one important question: how did you get your wife to agree to move
way down here? According to my Agnes, she was a trifle reluctant about
locating this far from town," prodded 0. W. Potter.
Henry Porter cut in, asking, "That high knoll that stood in back of
the marsh area .... what happened to it?"
"We took 30 feet off the top, did a bit of leveling on which to put
the house and used the rest for fill," Grommes replied.
J. B. smiled. It was true, all right. Mrs. Grommes was not terribly
fond of the idea. The homes they had rented in the past six summers had
all been a great deal closer and she enjoyed the proximity.
"Think it
was the golf that finally decided her.
She said it would be easier for
me to get to and from the course.
I'd probably be home quicker if I
didn't have to travel quite so far," said J. B.
This brought a chuckle from the men, causing some of them to glance
at their watches. It was decided that all had better head for their own
respective homes promptly!
The property remained in the family until about 1950 when the house
was ra7.ed by the new owner.
Frank Lloyd Wright designed the present
structure which was built atop the old foundation.
Vacant portions of
the estate were subdivided in the late 60's.
140
Both John B. Grommes, a partner in the firm of Grommes and Ulrich, distillers, and his son-in-law Frank A. Rehm had given a great deal of deep
141
thought to the entire project.
Plans had been meticulously worked out
with Richard E. Schmidt (brother of Dr. Otto Schmidt of Black Point), an
established architect known for his design of the Montgomery Ward building and Michael Reese Hospital.
Not only the magnificent views of the
lake and surrounding countryside were considered, but also the comfort
and convenience of family, guests and household staff as well. The result was a handsome 3-storied home, aptly named Allview, with marvelous
vistas to be enjoyed from practically every window.
The foundation and impressive porch were constructed of native stone,
the first floor of continental paving brick and the upper stories of
pebble dash (stucco) with half-timber trim.
!lalla Lodg1
Home begun 1900
Private estate 1976
Tracy C. Drake (1901-1936)
"Ah, now we shall see, we shall see," said Tracy Drake as he turned
to his wife who was seated next to him in the carriage.
"You'll be as
pleased as I was when you see how nicely they leaf out this summer."
"Well of course I shall," murmurred his wife, Anna Daughaday Drake.
Turning to their two young sons seated opposite them she asked, "What do
you think your father has done now, Carlos and Francis?"
"What, Mama.
Allview built in 1905, residence of
J. B. Grommes.
A service elevator ran from the basement to the attic,
permitting
trunks to be conveniently sent to any floor and heavy washbaskets to be
carried from the basement laundry room to the drying room in the attic.
The house had its own electric light and power plant and two furnaces to
provide year-round heat.
The waterworks system supplied hot and cold
water on every floor and also gave reassuring fire protection, a very
desired feature in the country in the early 1900's.
The main flo;r of the home contained a spacious reception hall with
beamed ceiling, tinted walls and massive fireplace.
At one end was the
billiard room; at the other, a generously-proportioned dining room. The
second floor, containing seven or more bedrooms, was reached by either
of two broad staircases which rose from each side of the main entrance.
A porch overlooking the lake was constructed of native boulders, its
14-foot width extending 180 feet across the entire lake side of the home
and around one end.
Joining the Grommes' at Allview were their three daughters.
Clara,
her husband, Frank Rehm, and their daughter Louise were regular sumrrer
visitors.
Frieda was married to Armin W. Brand shortly before the mFin
house was completed, and they returned from their New York home to help
her parents become settled.
Bertha, the youngest, became Mrs. Alfred
Brand (no relation) in an impressive ceremony at Chicago's Congress
Hotel in 1910.
Family member? maintained the estate unti 1 1949 when its 56 acres
and many buildings were sold for subdivision as 700 South Lake Shore
Drive. At that time the upper two floors of the main home were removed
and the resulting ranch-style structure given a flat roof and modern
window treatment.
The lodge and other out-buildings have since become
residences.
The sugar maple "forestu planted under the direction of
landscape architect Jens J"ensen is particularly prominent each autumn.
142
Oh do tell us ... what?"
"This past winter he moved one hundred maple trees from the grove
near Williams Bay. Dug them out with hugh balls of dirt remaining about
the roots for protection, had them placed on bobsleds, hauled across the
ice of the lake and planted at Aloha Lodge!"
"One hundred trees?" both boys chorused.
"Indeed," replied their mother with a smile dancing about the corners
of her mouth.
It was true. Mr. Drake, who had greatly admired the magnificent red
beauty of these particular trees the preceeding autumn, had purchased
them. Although the rest of the story has not been checked from a horticultural viewpoint, the tale is told that the trees prospered, but never
again did they turn that handsome deep red so admired by Mr. Drake! Each
fall, however, they assumed a bright yellow coloring which flooded the
house in a golden light.
As was the case with many families who eventually built on the lake,
the Drakes had first visited here with their friends the S. B. Chapins.
The couple soon fell under Geneva's spell.
They acquired property on
the south shore from Arthur Kaye in the summer of 1898 and selected
as
architect, Howard Van Dorn Shaw to design the home and accessory build-
Tracy C. Drake
(1864 - 1939)
143
Unlike many of the other lakeshore places, Aloha Lodge was more of a
home than a cottage, deriving its "lived-in" feeling from a mixture of
antiques and newer pieces, all of which had been selected for comfort
and durability.
The Drakes expected a certain amount of wear and tear
by the younger generation.
There were of course exceptions, one of the
most cherished pieces being a handsome grandfather's clock which showed
the time of day, the month and the phases of the moon. This interesting
16tH century timepiece with its intricate marquetry had been a wedding
present to the couple from the employees of the Grand Pacific Hotel in
Chicago, long owned by John B. Drake, the groom'~ father.
The Drake home in 1926.
ings.
The next two years were spent abroad for the most part, and so
the charming white-pillared home was not completed until March of 1901.
Included in the Drake's world-wide travels was an extended stay in
Hawaii, where they developed an undying love of the islands and sincere
fondness for the deposed Queen Lilliuokalani. This was reflected in the
use of the purely Hawaiian term "aloha" as part of the new estate's name
and the choice of Kaiulani for their steam yacht.
The latter burned in
1906 ~nd was replaced by the former Walker yacht Ethel Mary, renamed the
Aloha.
When dismantled during the winter of 1936, she was said to be
one of the oldest wooden steamers on the lake.
Both Tracy and his brother John grew up steeped in the hotel business
and it came, therefore, as no surprise that they undertook the development of the Blackstone Hotel and the Blackstone Theatre in 1910, and a
decade or so later, the famed Drake Hotel and Drake Towers adjoining.
Both brothers had learned the business from the bottom up.
Tracy began
as an assistant market and storeroom keeper.
Under the tutelage of the
renowned chef, John Gabriel, he even mastered the art of carving. According to reports, he became so proficient that he could carve a plump
IS-pound turkey in five minutes, serving 23 orders and leaving nothing
but the bones on the bird!
The Drakes were enthusiastic members of the lake community. Both the
sons joined their father in his love of the sporting life, Francis in
particular. Some of their days were spent enjoying the relatively new
sport of golfing or helping Carlos and his friend Wilmarth Ickes (grandson of Mrs. Wilmarth of Glen Arden) organize one of their popular tent
shows.
The annual birthday party for Francis each summer was an event
eagerly awaited by the SO to 60 young guests.
The yard was strung with
Japanese lanterns; sometimes a story-teller was engaged for the day when
the children were younger.
Games were organized and refreshments were
in generous supply. One of the highlights of the party appreciated by
the parents as much as, if not more than, the children was a picture
taken of the whole group each year by a professional photographer.
While some lakeshore residents remember the Drakes especially for
their parties or their. sporting activities, others can recall Mr. Drake
and his cars. According to reports, Tracy owned one of the first automobiles ever seen at the lake and he drove with great enthusiasm and
abandon---particularly the latter.
A ride with Tracy usually provided
at least one anecdote for future re-telling. The eminent Dr. Frost, of
Yerkes Observatory, even included a detailed description of such an adventure in his autobiography An Astronomer's Life. Almost three decades
had elapsed between the event and the book, yet he remembereditvividly.
Aloha Lodge in 1903,
residence of Tracy Drake.
144
The estate was l}laintained by the Drakes until 1936 when it was sold
to Richard Lydy, the Chicago parking-garage magnate.
Although it has
since changed hands a number of times, it has been kept intact.
14S
Gl1n!rd1n
Mrs. H. M. Wilmarth and heir (1893-1922)
Horne begun 1892
Private estate 1976
Mother and daughter, showing a remarkable family resemblance, were
strolling leisurely about the grounds of Glen Arden. Turning toward her
mother, Anna Wilmarth Thompson observed reassuringly, "Everything looks
just lovely, Mother, just lovely. I'm sure you need not worry about a
single detail."
The gathering the two women were discussing was one of two annual
parties hosted by Mrs. Wilmarth for all the help on the neighboring estates.
Twice each year she would turn over her grounds and boat to the
guests.
Her own staff would see that refreshments and games were in
generous supply.
It was an event eagerly anticipated by the employees
of the adjacent estates, and the generous gesture gives us an insight
into the character of Mrs. Wilmarth.
She had come to Chicago from Massachusetts as the bride of Henry M.
Wilmarth, proprietor of the best known lighting fixture establishment in
the city.
Their home on Michigan Avenue, two doors south of Congress
Street, missed being destroyed in the Great Fire by "just a hair," as
the family was fond of saying. How true it was! Everything to the west
and to the north of their home lay in ruins. In reconstructing the city,
the block just north of Congress Street held the Auditorium and what is
now the Fine Arts Building, all replacing the fashionable residences of
pre-fire years. Mrs. Wilmarth and her neighbors stayed on, however. It
was not until 1892 that their houses were replaced by the Congress Hotel
and Mrs. Wilmarth moved there permanently as soon as it was completed.
So in a sense all of her Chicago years were spent in that one spot.
Mary Wilmarth's active support of social justice during the late 90's
and early 1900's was substantial. When Jane Addams came to Chicago to
organize Hull House, Mrs. Wilmarth was one of her first supporters and,
along with Miss Addams, one of the founders of the institution.
From
this contact a life-long friendship developed between the two.
Mary Hawes Wilmarth (1837-1919)
Mary Hawes Wilmarth, a widow now for many years, noted, "Well, I suppose after doing this so often, I should just relax and let the staff
handle the last minute concerns."
Glen Arden from an 1894 painting,
residence of Mrs. H. M. Wilmarth.
Mary Wilmarth pursued intellectual avenues as well and was an active
member of the Fortnightly where she presented a number of "papers." Along with a small group of other ladies, she founded the Woman's City
Club and served as president of this body as well as the Fortnightly.
Another valued membership was in the Women's Athletic Club.
Serving as
a trustee for the Henry Booth House, the Frederick Douglass Center and
Rockford College, she donated a great deal of her time and energy to the
development of these establishments.
Her interests were political as well, for she and Jane Addams were
delegates-at-large from Illinois at the Progressive Party's national
convention when Theodore Roosevelt was nominated as President.
Lest it appear, however, that Mrs. Wilmarth had no time for the pleasures of her summer horne at Lake Geneva which she had built in 1893 following the death of her husband, it should be noted that she spent much
time here with her family. Among her many friends entertained here were
Miss Addams, Frances Parkinson Keyes and members of the Alcott family of
Massachusetts. All delighted with her in the relaxing atmosphere of the
large open veranda which originally dominated the front of the home.
Of three children born to her, only one survived to adulthood. Anna,
this daughter, must certainly have been a delight to her mother.
Not
only did she pursue many of the same interests, but with her second husband, Harold Ickes, a Chicago lawyer (later Secretary of the Interior in
President Franklin Roosevelt's cabinet), she continued to seek the goals
so admired by her mother. Anna served as a trustee of the University of
147
146
Loramocr
Illinois and as a delegate to the lower house of the Illinois legislature. In addition, Anna was the mother of three children.
Home begun 1900
Monastery 1976
With Mrs. Wilmarth at the time of her death here in 1919 was her dear
friend Jane Addams.
Anna maintained the estate until 1922 when it was
sold to Sidney Smith, creator of the Andy Gump certoon strip.
During
Smith!s eight-year ownership, the property was called Trudehwst.
In
the 30's and 40's the estate was owned by Garnet W. McKee, head of the
Eclipse Engineering Company of Rockford.
About 1950 a new purchaser
subdivided the vacant portions of the estate, but the original home remains a private residence.
J. H. Moore (1901-1916)
F. D. Countiss (1917-1923)
A groupofhorse fanciers, well-versed in the various aspects of horse
breeding, buying, selling and trading, were congregated in the stable
office, right off the hitching room at Loramoor, the palatial estate of
James Hobart Moore.
The guests had arrived the night before by special train and had been
met at the station by Moore's Tally-ho.
This late October Sunday morning, while the women were visiting the greenhouses, the gentlemen were
using the occasion to tour the stables with their host.
"Certainly ranks with the best we have in the East", Reginald Vanderbilt remarked to another of the guests, Mr. Kip.
"Indeed, and so complete and thoughtfully designed.
architect was?" Kip commented.
Wonder who the
James Hobart Moore, (1852-1916)
Trudehw>st in 1926, then residencE;: of Sidney Smith.
"Now, now what are you men up to?
Going to try a bit of horse-swaping?"
J. H. Moore inquired lightly, as he joined the two, with other
guests, John C. Haven, Jr., Clarence Moore, and Harold Howard of Chicago,
in tow.
"All I can say," Reginald volunteered, "is that you certainly will
have a fine representation at the horse show in Chicago this week."
"Urrumph, fine representation indeed.
guest interjected.
Magnificent, I'd say," another
The men all laughed good-naturedly and prepared to inspect the almost
148
149
60 stabled horses more carefully.
Later that day team after team would
emerge through the narrow gateway from the circular barns to be run along the broad driveways in preparation for the show.
Loramoor>:. residence of James Hobart Moore 1 1904.
Mr. Moore himself would handle some of the teams to display for the
guests the ability of the animals.
When all was in readiness for the
long march to the railroad station, a trumpet would sound through the estate and nearby properties,and one by one the animals would be led out
- 28 in all - and each with a richly ornamental covering placed over the
harness, and each led by an individual attendant. They were greatly admired as they pranced their way the three miles to the station, spread
out for at least half a mile.
Safely tucked away in the private cars,
they were bedded down for the night to await the morning's trip to the
Chicago Horse Show.
Not only would the horses travel to the show in style, but the guests
would return to the sity in style as well, for they would board the Moore
private rail car, the "Thanis," and have a relaxing trip, along with the
"baggage" to the city.
Interior of one section of the stables. 1904,
Note the wicker floor mats.
150
Before selecting the piece of property on which to build the extensive estate, Moore and his wife had spent at least two summers at the
lake. In 1896 they rented the Dunlap cottage.
The following two years
Moore was busy straightening out the collapse of the Diamond Match Corn151
Dining room, 1904,
pany, a company in which he and his brother had heavy committments. But
the summer of 1899 he and his wife rented the Van Inwagen house and in
December of that year he purchased the first parcel that would be the
site of the home and main buildings.
The estate would eventually contain, in addition to the main house,
close to 30 separate buildings, all designed by the well-known architect
Jarvis Hunt.
In addition to the extensive stables, there were two apartments in
the gate lodge, one for the head gardener and one for the foremen, 10
greenhouses, a pump house, a garage, a laundry house, two pump houses
for the farms, two large hog houses, a large chicken house, a separate
brooder house, a hen house, a large lake-front boat house, an ice house,
a large animal barn, two farm cottages, and such special additions as a
race track, a large wharf, where the Moore boat The Loramoor was kept,
and two extremely large reservoirs for the stables, gardens and drinking
water.
Living room of Loramoor, 1904.
152
But to simply list these buildings does not do them justice. For example, the stables could house 60 horses in oak stalls trimmed with
brass.
The floors were covered with wicker mats, and sleeping quarters
for the stablemen were provided on the second floor.
The garage, built
around 1907 to house Moore's six imported French cars, was completely
fire-proof and it contained every modern convenience - a pit, a bath, an
153
office.
Upstairs were sleeping rooms for the chauffers.
The reason for Mr. Moore's vast development of the estate is not
known, but his concern for detail about the property can be appreciated
from just viewing the pictures.
No aspect was too small to escape the
attention of at least one of the Moores. Records were kept of the types
of trees, flowers and shrubs planted about the grounds; detailed notes
were meticulously filed dealing with the location of various items in
each of the buildings.
Mr. Moore operated on a scale larger than life in many respects.
In
1878 he became a student in the law offices of Small and Moore,where his
brother was a junior partner.
Three years later he was admitted to the
Illinois bar. Shortly after the death of Mr. Small, the Moore brothers,
James and William, formed their own law partnership, which proved to be
both a lasting and highly successful venture.
It was not long before
the business community, both in the Midwest and the East, recognized the
brothers Moore shared a genius for promotion of giant industrial enterprises.
The following years saw them expand in this field, especially
in their careful handling of the Diamond Match Company,
The success of Diamond Match ( as well as its subsequent failure }
proved to be a great test for the brothers, leaving them with large outstanding debts. Within the brief span of two years, however, the pair
had successfully financed the organization of the National Biscuit Com·pany and the American Tin Plate Company.
These provided the necessary
financial cushion for settling the Diamond Match debts. Success followed
success, the brothers being asked to sit on numerous boards as the partners became more diversified in their interests. They organized American
Can and, by some outstanding business maneuvering, came to own the Rock
Island Railroad.
With William handling the East coast and Wall Street,
and J. H. in the Midwest, the financial world of the nation couldn ,-t refrain from recognizing a formidable opponent in the "Rock Island Crowd,"
as the partnership was dubbed.
The Moore'home had been thoughtfully designed and laid out by architect Jarvis Hunt, permitting a view of the lake from every room in the
house, even those on the third floor. The V-shaped plan further permitted a maximum amount of sunlight and cooling summer breezes to enter.
Although the exterior design was Elizabethan in style and the interior
borrowed freely from the Gothic, the house, as originally decorated
was well balanced.
Generous dimensions and high ceilings provided an
atmosphere of openness. The three floors contained 27 rooms,in addition
to numberless utility and storage areas and a vast attic. In the belowground level were a two-lane bowling alley,a huge recreation room and an
interesting circular tap room, not to mention a wine cellar. Bath rooms
were the size of today's bedrooms, and an elevator was provided for the
delivery of trunks. Mr. Moore even had his own barber shop!
Following the death of J. H. Moore in 1916, the estate was sold to
Frederick Countiss of Alta Vista who changed its name to
Downer Hall
and maintained it equally elegantly.
Brooder and hen house, LoramooP farm, 1916, now a private residence.
154
155
The two Countiss children, Henrietta and Fred~ Jr. spent many pleasant summers at the lake before the estate again changed hands in February, 1925. At this time, a group of prominent Chicago men headed by L.C.
Ayers acquired the 33-acre portion containing the home and stables, and
111 acres on the south side of the lakeshore road which contained the
old race track, the laundry, garage and other utility structures. This,
combined with an additional 77 acres purchased fi'orn the Dickinsons, gave
the group an ideal location for their proposed private golf and country
club, Kishwauketoe.
Remodeling and additions provided the membership
with 60 bedrooms and baths.
The club flourished for a time, but it met
with financial problems by mid-July of 1928, when the golf links were
opened to the public on a daily fee basis.
Addi tiona! troubles stemmed
from a restrictive covenant, covering the use of the property for such
purposes; and assuredly, the stock market crash of 1929 did nothing to
help the situation.
The club folded and was placed in receivership. In
1931, a local realtor purchased the 33-acre portion (home, stables and
shore front) for $36,500.
J. E. McCauley, an electronics engineer and the next owner, made many
interior changes in his attempt to restore the home to its former grandeur, even relocating many of the furnishings which had been sold at
auction by the interim realtor. He, his wife and three daughters summered
here until 1942,when the four Lasker brothers purchased the property and
renamed it the Marne.
The men, all partners in the Lasker Boiler Company of Chicago, installed new boilers; but the wear and tear of four
families shar-ing one ownership was hard on the estate's buildings, a few
of which were allowed to deteriorate.
owner of the Southern Electric Company, which furnished power to this
area from 1916 to 1929 before being bought out by Wisconsin Power and
Light. The greenhouses at AlLegany where he grew his famous rare orcids were originally J. H. Moore 1 s.
Following Mr. Myers death in 1945,
the estate was ourchased by E. C. Styberg.
Although portions have been
subdivided in recent years, the home is maintained as a private dwelling,
Laundry building, 1916,
now a private residence
Garage, 1907,
now a private residence
In 1951 the Franciscan Friars purchased the estate, hoping that by
so doing they might alleviate over-crowding at their college in Burlington, 10 miles distant. To help defray the acquisition cost, the furnishings were once again auctioned.
In remodeling the main home to better
suit their purposes, the Franciscans preserved as much as possible of
the original. Also,when it became necessary to add a 43-room wing to the
existing structure, pains were taken to duplicate the exterior of the
main building. The addition was thoughtfully located away from the lake
so that the home itself appeared unchanged. Except in a few instances,
requiring specialized knowledge or training they did not possess, the
resident friars did all the work themselves.
In 1960, after ten years devoted to restoration, remodeling and plain
hard work, the stables became their Province library. One hundred thousand volumes and an additional 50,000 periodicals took the place once
occupied by Mr. Moore's fine showhorses and equipage. Atop the roof, the
original observation tower has been carefully maintained despite the
difficulties such preservation causes; its $10,000 clock still keeps accurate time. The other buildings on the estate, the lone greenhouse remaining of the original ten and the charming gate lodge, are not used by
the friars at present, although they are maintained.
Since 1969, when
the Novitiate use of the property was discontinued, the Queen of Peace
Friary ( the home) and the Franciscan Education Center ( the stables)
have functioned as a continuing education center.
Another portion of the original Loramoor" which held the cattle barn,
farm superintendent's cottage, chicken house and. boat house, was sold by
Mr. McCauley in 1944.
Since that time, the chicken house has been converted into a charming residence, the boat house into apartments, and
the cattle barn into a restaurant and handcraft and antique shop, all
carefully restored or adapted for today' s living.
Following the sale of the remainder of the Moore estate to the F. D.
Countisses, Lewis E. Myers purchased the 25-acre site of the lakefront
previously devoted to farming.
On this he built his Alleghany in 1925.
a lovely Southern Colonial style home with typical stately white columns
rising two stories between veranda and roof. Mr. Myers was president and
founder of the Chicago construction firm bearing his name, and also the
156
Leaving Loramoor through the gate lodge archway, 1904.
157
t'
'l'l'!l"
~~~~~ ~mwn
Home begun 1893
Private estate 1976
C. H. Wacker and heirs (1894-1975)
Charles H. Wacker (1856-1929)
Fair Lawn about 1900.
"Indeed I did," asserted Charles H. Wacker, a leading c1t1Zen of Chicago, as he turned to the group assembled about him in the lounge of the
Chicago Athletic Club. The conversation of the men had gradually shifted from a favorite topic, the building of a city (in particular the city
of Chicago), to more personal building projects.
Mr. Wacker had volunteered some information on his construction experiences way back in 1894
when his summer home on Lake Geneva was erected.
H. Wacker or knew of his accomplishments.
Educated in Chicago and Lake
Forest before being sent on a three-year world tour, he had a fine eye
for detail and authenticity. After his return home in 1880, he and his
father established the malting firm ofF. Wacker and Sons, which later became the Wacker and Birk Brewing Company. The untimely death of both his
parents in 1884 resulted in his election as president and treasurer of
the firm.
The young man continued his spectacular rise in the world of
Chicago business and was made a director of the Corn Exchamre Bank, a
director of Chicago Title and Trust, president of the Chicago Heights
Land Association, treasurer of the new German Opera House, a director of
the London and Chicago Contract House and a member of the Board of Trade
and the Stock Exchange.
He was the youngest director of the Columbian
Exposition, serving on no less than three committees including the important Ways and Means.
It was however Wacker's work as a member, and later chairman, of the
Chicago Plan Commission that will be long remembered.
Not only by the
citizens of Chicago, but by thousands of visitors, who, although they
might not know of him personally, pay tribute by their admiration of the
city itself. For C. H. Wacker is considered the guiding hand behind the
plan which helped Chicago emerge into the well-organized and centralized
metropolis it is today.
Two exemplary thoroughfares were included in the plan. The one which
obliterated congested South Water Street, transforming that bank of the
Chicago River into a fine plaza, was named Wacker Drive, in honor of the
man who played so important a part in its conception.
The magnificent
Outer Drive, Union Station, Soldier Field and the Shedd Aquarium also
were some of later constructions covered in the plan.
Where did a man so active in the affairs of a bustling city find sollace and relaxation? For Charles Wacker it was at Fair Lawn> and it was
with the same attention to detail and enthusiasm for a well-planned project that he undertook the building of his summer horne.
"Inspected every board that went into the building of Fair Lawn," and
a twinkle came into his eye as he continued, "and I'll wager you won't
find a knot in the wood anywhere in that house.
Had a hard time persuading Otillie to leave a few walls bare of paint though.
Wanted to
just have them sealed and be able to enjoy the beauty of the wood."
Tom Hayes interrupted with the comment, "Say, by jove, I think you're
right.
I recall that finely paneled dining room of yours and I quite
agree. It would be a disgrace to cover it with paint.
All right for a
bedroom, I suppose, but that dining room .... "
"That reminds me," another of the men interjected, 11 We have to decide
on which wood to use on some exterior porch columns. Any suggestions?"
Wacker offered, "Used cypress columns myself.
No doubt they will
outlast my children and grandchildren .... probably great-grandchildren as
well.
Have over ten pair and numerous single ones around the carriage
entrance, and the front and side porches facing the lake."
Such attention to detail was not surprising to those who knew Charles
158
Another view of Fair LCI/im about 1926.
159
The lovely residence reflected a southern colonial architecture with
its white clapboard outer walls and slightly tapered columns of painted
cypress.
Located on a high knoll from which the lawn sloped steeply to
the shore, the view from its screened and glazed porches and from its
living room afforded a vista of the entire lake.
The property had been
part of C. C. Boyles' holdings which the latter in turn had purchased
from General J. W. Boyd.
The Wackers had spent several summers in the
J. G. Sherman home in town before they took possession of their own home
in 1894.
Gale•oodl
Home begun 1892
Burned 1928
Second home begun 1928
Private estate 1976
J. C. Hately (1893-1923)
Charles Wacker had married Otillie Glade in ,1887 and their children
were Frederick, Charles Jr. and Rosalie (who would later marry Earl J.
Zimmermann). Many years after the death of Mrs. Wacker, he married Ella
Todtmann. The family enjoyed Fair La1Jn throughout the year, often coming
from Chicago for long weekends of sledding, skiing and tobogganing in
winter.
Fred Wacker was an avid young sailor and as early as 1907 had
taken a second in Class B in the Northwestern Regatta with his Otillie.
Fairlawn remained in the Wacker family until 1975 when it was sold.
The home and property are still intact as a private estate.
GaZewood in
1895~
residence of J. C. Hately.
11 1 think it is unwarranted,
an unwarranted cormnent to be sure!
What
do they know of architecture?"
Annabelle Hately was fuming inwardly as
she turned to look at her husband John who had just stepped out onto the
large open porch with its stately white columns.
She was upset over an
item in the May 12, 1893, Lake Geneva Herald that read: "J. C. Hately's
large mansion which C. 0. LaSalle is just about finishing up, is a large,
square building, and to our mind, too squatty to be handsome."
was
Apparently reflecting on the beauty of the view in front of him, it
a few moments before John Hately caught the impact of his wife's
comments.
11
H 1 mm," he stalled for time.
"John, did you hear me?"
By this time the three young daughters, Ethel, Louise and Margaret,
had gathered about their mother, who re-read the article for the benefit
of all.
"Well now," this time John was quicker to reply.
"Seems to me that
if YOU like Galewood> and the girls .... " he turned to look at each of
the girls with a mock seriousness that they immediately detected, "like
the house, then that's all that's important. Furthermore, C. C. stopped
over and he seemed to approve." (John was referring to his neighbor to
the east, C. C. Boyles, from whom he had purchased the fine property the
previous year). The girls giggled a bit as their father struck a rather
stern pbse and concluded, "Besides, I like it!"
160
161
was stored.
Unfortunately both car and barn were lost in a 1912 fire.
The early 1900's was an exciting time for those who were dashing and
venturesome enough to invest in an automobile, for there were numerous
problems to be faced---even after the driver managed to get the vehicle
started! Hately's $5,000 model, while not the most expensive (Tracy C.
Drake's $12,000 French make surely ranked nearer the top,) was one of
the early ones in the area. Messrs. Starring, Allerton, Moore and Swift
all owned automobiles too, but J. H. Moore, with his highly equipped
garage and collection of 5 or six autos, had the most extensive outlay.
One of the problems all faced was the terrible condition of the roads
(if one could call them that).
This was fairly easily solved at an im-
With that, even Annabelle had to smile.
Soon the entire matter was
forgotten as all were busy with the myriad of details which always accompanied the settling of a new summer home for its first season.
John C. Hately was involved in meat packing in Chicago and in various
other investment enterprises.
With a group of men he had built the new
Chicago Beach Hotel on Hyde Park Boulevard where the Hately family lived
after it replaced the formidable six-story wooden one built during the
1880's.
(During World War II it was used as an army hospital and later
as 5th Army Headquarters.)
·
The young Hately daughters, although busy with the usual round of
summer activities, decided they would like to share their considerable
sewing talents with children. Mr. Hickey, their foreman, was asked if
his child and some of her friends might be interested. Indeed they were
and Margaret soon had a group of 9 to 14-year-olds busy with needles in
the Hately's elegantly furnished main parlor, diligently taking instruction in the art of fine stitching.
Ethel and Louise busied. themselves
serving pink lemonade and an especially delicious chocolate concoction
known as Brownstone Front cake. The youngsters were treated like little
princesses, one of the participants recalled.
Most of the girls developed very fine stitching techniques that would last their lifetimes.
The family steam yacht, the 60-foot Thelma, was launched in May, 1893.
(One local newspaper called the boat the Ypsilanti.) The family enjoyed
quiet evening rides.
But it was transportation of another sort which
was catching the interest of many not too long thereafter. J. C. Hately,
along with a host of other lakeshore residents, invested in that newfangled vehicle called the automobile.
In a joint venture, Hately and
Wacker built a garage-barn combination and it was here that his motorcar
162
One of the better roads of the day was this one leading to Jeraeyhurst
and Elgin Club, about 1906.
promptu meeting at the country club in which the aforementioned gentlemen; joined by others such as Selfridge, Hutchinson, Beidler and Parker,
formed the Good Roads Association in September, 1902. That very night
$22,500 was pledged as a starter.
The organization purchased its own
road-building equipment and hired its own crews.
Two years later, onethird of the 22-mile lakeshore road had already been completed.
A few
years later it was finished.
163
But one thing always leads to another. Soon further irritations began
to draw the attention of drivers and non-drivers alike. In 1906 the local Herald complained, "There seems to be more reckless driving of autos
indulged in this year than ever before and frequently cars are met on
the country roads running at a 30-50 mile clip.
This speed might do on
a race course, but on a country road with the uncertainty of ruts and
loose gravel, it is a little less than criminal to run at such a speed."
As few of the native population could as yet afford to own such vehicles
---if indeed they even desired to---there was naturally a bit of resentment. After all, wasn't there an eight-mile-per-hour speed limit in Evanston? Shortly there was more, for on August 13, 1913, the city of Lake
Geneva suffered its first traffic jam and the police were required to
unscramble the resulting tangle of cars. No doubt some of the previously mentioned gentlemen, or their sons, were caught in this jam. Reports
note that 165 cars passed one West Main Street corner in 35 minutes!
Mr. Hately undoubtedly was happy to retire to the peace and quiet of his
own front porch or to the deck of the Thelma.
The family remained at Galewood until 1923 when the estate was sold
to Mrs. Jessie Bartlett Hooper.
In March,
1928, the home caught fire
and burned to the ground.
A new 16-room Spanish-influence villa was
built for Mrs. Hooper and, christened Casa del Bueno_. occupied in 1930.
From 1935 to 1952 it was the home of Mildred Ruehl Starck, widow of P. T,
Starck of the Starck Piano Company.
The family had owned a home at the
west end of the lake for many years previously.
Today the property remains a private estate.
Sumachs
Home begun 1894
Property partially subdivided 1960
Private residence 1976
C. C. Boyles (1880-1911)
The train for Lake Geneva began to pick up speed as it left the city
behind and headed out through the countryside toward its first stop at
Des Plaines. After entering the car, the conductor paused for a moment
to adjust to the slight lurching movement, and then continued down the
aisle.
He stopped to speak to a kindly looking gentleman with striking
white hair and beard.
"Good day, Mr. Boyles.
I don't usually see you
this early in the week. Everything all right, I hope?"
"Why yes, Henderson. Good of you to ask. As a matter of fact, things
couldn't be better. I've just settled some business matters and now will
be free to spend more time out at the lake.
"That is good to hear, sir, but we shall miss your company." observed
the conductor.
Charles C. Boyles (1833-1916}
Cas a del Sueno
164
165
Henderson was most sincere, for Charles Carroll Boyles, a successful
partner in the Charles Gossage Company, was held in high esteem by all
who had contact with him.
Boyles' interest in merchandising had begun
at an early age when he worked as a clerk in a dry goods store in Salem,
Massachusetts. Laterheworked for Gossage in Charleston, South Carolina,
where he began highly experienced in the field of merchandising.
Wishing to branch out on his own, he tried a partnership in Davenport, Iowa,
but success eluded him and he soon rejoined Gossage, who was in Cincinnati. Within a short time the latter headed for Chicago and in 1862 sent
for Boyles. Eight years later the two men together founded Charles Gossage and Company.
The firm's reputation as a progressive business is due in the main to
C.C. Boyles' highly innovative ideas. It was he who suggested the mailing of circulars to customers to inform them of stock, special purchases
and prices.
Boyles also invented the duplicate sales slips bound into
books, the forerunner of the type still in use today. Merchandising was
inahighly creative stage during the 1860's and 70's and in Chicago such
men as Boyles, Gossage, Leiter and Field were leaders in that endeavor.
Sumaahs about 1900, residence of C
C. Boyles,
property remained part of the Sumachs tract.
But by 1880 Boyles and his second wife, who preferred country living,
felt the city closing in on their Chicago home. Hoping to build shortly,
Boyles purchased 65 lakeshore acres from General J. W. Boyd.
Unfortunately his partner's illness and subsequent death prevented Boyles from
following through with his plans at the time.
In the spring of 1883 he
sold Gossage and Company to Carson, Pirie Scott, and then retired.
Boyles was then ready to develop his plans for a home and farm at the
lake. C. C. had long been interested in developing a fine herd of cattle
and with that in mind he began at once to construct a tenant's cottage
and a number of large barns. During the next few years he purchased additional farm acreage. He became so engrossed in his herd and farm that
it was a number of years before the work was begun on architect Henry
Lord Gay's plan for a lakeshore home.
By late 1896 however, the Sumachs was completed. It was the scene of
a gala open house for the workmen who had helped to build the home (a
project which took over two years, for it was built by day labor and not
by contract). According to a newspaper report, the highlight of the evening was the unveiling of a piece of statuary depicting Grant, Lincoln
and Stanton in a council of war. Richard Soutar, general contractor, did
the honors.
"In behalf of the workmen who are present here today ... I
take pleasure in presenting you this little token of friendship ... I would
also add that every one of us hope and trust that you and yours may be
long spared to enjoy a life of happiness in this, your new home."
Boyles and his first wife, Martha Shoup of Davenport, Iowa, had one
daughter, Margaret Louise. After Martha's death and his move to Chicago,
he married Hannah, eldest daughter of Albert Dickinson, founder of the
original seed company bearing his name. They had three children, Thomas,
Charles and Katherine.
Ill health forced the couple to sell their property in 1911 and they
moved to Winnetka to live near their son, Charles. Mr. Boyles died five
years later.
H. M. Byllesby purchased the Boyles estate, selling the home and surrounding few acres to W. R. Cox of Chicago.
The remaining property was
offered to those lakeshore residents whose estates abutted and who wished to increase their own holdings.
Boyles greatly enjoyed his fine library and many of his volumes dealt
with farming techniques.
He also delighted in good conversation and
often asked speakers who were giving programs in nearby Chicago, Milwaukee or Racine to visit him at the Sumachs.
It gave him an opportunity
to share ideas and discuss events of the day.
Between 1891 and 1900 Boyles sold parcels of his lakeshore lands to
C. H. Wacker, J. C. Hately and A. W. Brosseau, but the rest of the shore
166
167
Beaawni
Home built 1890
Razed 1960
Property subdivided 1960
J. M. Van Inwagen (1890-1908}
H. M. Byllesby (1908-1939}
"Well, certainly seems like a lot of trouble and expense," Jane observed, displaying her usual "a penny saved is a penny earned" philosophy. "The Byllesbys remodeled only eight years ago when they bought the
place and changed the name then too.
Let's see, they called it Arrowglade, supposedly because of all the arrow heads and other Indian relics
they found on the property. Martha, what was the original name? Sounded
like an Indian chief's.
In fact I always heard that it was originally
named ·for a chief, a cousin or something of Big Foot's.
"Here, let me help you with that heavy pot," Martha offered. "Well,
believe the name you're thinking of is Negawni, the Van Inwagens' name
for the home. They built it, you know, but it wasn't named for an Indian
chief."
"Are you sure ... ?" Jane questioned.
"Definitely.
Negawni is simply Inwagen spelled backwards!"
And indeed that was the truth of the matter.
While for years the
issue was hotly argued in the town, the J. M. Van Inwagens had simply
turned their last name around and called the estate Negawni.
NegCMni about 1902, residence of J
o
Van Inwageno
The Van Inwagens purchased the property from Arthur Kaye in 1889 and
the home was ready for the family the summer of 1890.
It was a fairly
typical summer residence, providing numerous open vernadas that were a
perfect setting for a quiet afternoon of reading or an evening of impromptu musical concerts.
Both were favorite family pastimes.
Henry
Lord Gay was the original architect and the varied roof line provided
for a number of second floor porches or balconies which gave an interesting look from the outside and provided vistas for the occupants of
the second floor bedrooms.
Van Inwagen's business career was varied,
The church was a beehive of activity with the choir busy practicing
for the Christmas program and a group of young Sunday School students
valiantly attempting to recreate the nativity scene with the proper
amount of decorum.
In the kitchen a group of local church women were preparing hot cocoa
and coffee so the industrious choir and "drama" group could relax with
a warming bit of refreshment.
"Martha, I hear the Byllesby remodeling is complete and that you
wouldn't recognize the house now," Jane Peters addressed her good friend
and co-worker, Martha Unsworth, whose husband Harry had been responsible
for the painting and decorating of the horne.
·
"My goodness, yes. Really, if I hadn't stopped out there a number of
times last summer and fall when Richard Soutar was working on it, I
wouldn't be able to tell where the old house left off and the new began.
Not only that," Martha continued, "but, the Byllesbys changed the name
again. The place is to be known as Holly Bush, same as that family place
they visited in England last year."
168
but successful.
Arriving
in Chicago in 1854, he became assistant bookkeeper for Reynolds, Ely and
Company, wholesale grocers.
Three years later he joined Samuel Atwood
in the land insurance business and together they formed Trader's Insurance Company. Atwood retired in the early 1860's and Van Inwagen continued alone, until the business was wiped out in the Great Fire of 1871.
After that he devoted himself to grain trading forming Van Inwagen and
Hammil.
But by 1883 he had retired to travel abroad. Like many who
retire, Van Inwagen found he needed activity, so he formed the Tiffany
Pressed Brick Company, named for his wife, Mary Tiffany Van Inwagen. He
was a great supporter of Central Music Hall and a governing member of
the Art Institute.
Both his sons were graduates of the University of
Michigan and his only surviving daughter, Louise married a Whitney.
However lovely the home and attractive the setting,
were renting Negawni to such later lakeshore residents
and the J. H. Moores by 1887.
the V~n Inwagens
as the Brosseaus
In 1908
H. M. Byllesby purchased the estate and it became known as
A trip to England about 1915 did indeed inspire the couple
to completely remodel the home and to recreate as far as possible the
ancestral Byllesby home in Lincolnshire, England. Fortunately, the house
Arrowgladg.
169
was easily converted and the newer section of deep red brick,
with ivy, blended anonymously with the old main home.
covered
One of the outstanding rooms, a result of the remodeling project, was
the great hall which was considered to be the heart of the newly named
Holly Bush. It was large (about 30 by 40 feet) and had mullioned windows
with small rectangular panes: and an open staircase with the railing and
spindles of plain, but excellent wood, providing a horizontal contrast.
Swinghur:~t
Home completed 1884
Property subdivided 1930's
Private residence 1976
David Swing and heirs (1884-1934)
Throughout the house touches of the English influence were added -mosaic glass windows, rich deep woods and a truly
English library, full of richly bound leather volumes and deep leather
chairs.
casement windows,
Annually the couple entertained the employees of the Chicago-based
Byllesby Company, meeting the special train at Lake Geneva and heading
for a day's outing at the Lake Geneva Country Club.
Tea was served at
their home in the late afternoon and the guests departed by train in the
early evening.
It was an affair enjoyed by the employees and eagerly
looked forward to each year.
Byllesby joined Thomas A. Edison as a draftsman on plans for the Pearl
Street Station in New York, the first commercial electric central station
building built in the U. S. He was with Edison for a number of years in
the construction of lighting plants in various parts of the country. In
1885 he joined Westinghouse as a vice-president and general manager, and
was a principal contributortothe development of the alternating current
system of electric transmission. Under his own name or as an associate,
he received over 40 electrical patents. In 1891 Byllesby joined ThomsonHouston Electric Company and traveled about the nation organizing water
power and utility companies.
Byllesby founded the H. M. Byllesby Company in 1902.
It began primarily as an engineering concern, but, within a short period of time
developed a broader scope. It was soon known for its financing, design
and construction operation, and management of electric light and power
Eventually the business was divided, with one part
and gas companies.
responsible for underwriting and distribution of investments and secruities, and the other performing specialized services for utility companies.
At the time of Byllesby' s death in 1924, he was an officer or director
of no less than 11 electric, gas or power companies.
Highly respected
by his colleagues, Byllesby was also a member of numerous professional
and social organizations throughout the United States.
The couple had
no children.
Mrs. Margaret Stearns Byllesby made Holly Bush her permanent home in
the years between. her husband's death and 1938, the year of her own.
The 33-acre estate was then sold to John Eliot Warner and his wife, the
daughter of the S. J" Llewellyns of Pen-Y-Bryn on the north shore.
The
couple and their two children occupied the home for over a decade before
the estate was sold and subdivided.
The house itself was razed at that
time.
170
Sr.vinghU!'st in 1885, residence of Professor David Swing.
"Father, Father, are you all right?" and without wa1 tlng for a reply,
Marion Swing Ricker breathlessly continued, "I think it's shameful,
simply SHAMEFUL!"
By this time her voice was reaching a rather high
pitch and her father winced slightly as the last "SHAMEFUL" reached his
ears.
Continuing, Marion expounded further, "How can a man like that
accuse you, of all people, of heresy ... and Marion continued sputtering
a bit longer before her father, the Reverend Professor David Swing, was
able to interrupt.
"Now, now Marion, calm yourself.
I am just fine, but I think from
the tone of your voice that I should be concerned for YOU. Now, why don't
you remove your coat and join me in the library.
Here, I'll take the
wrap," and leading the way down the hall to the library, Swing observed,
"Well, now, my dear, the good Reverend Doctor thinks he has grounds for
the charges of heresy he brought against me.
While I believe him to be
a man of sincere character, nevertheless, I do not for a minute believe
his charges to be true.
Nor do I believe the Chicago Presbytery will
either. Ah, but here's your mother. Please do calm yourself or we shall
have another problem on our hands!"
Deciding
to let
the ladies continue
the discussion,
David
Swing,
171
beloved and admired not only by his own congregation, but also by most
who came into contact with him, decided he could indeed use the short
rest his wife had suggested earlier.
As the tall, lank figure ascended the stairs, he mused to himself,
"This will be difficult on Elizabeth and the girls, although Helen is
probably too young to understand much." With a grimace of determination
he thought, "I am not going to let this matter be blown out of perspective."
The 44-year-old minister had faced hardship in life before and
knew that inner strength, which had come to the rescue so many times in
the past, would surface again when called upon.
As a young student at Miami University in Ohio, he had graduated with
honors and was highly regarded by faculty as well as classmates.
Two
years after graduation the University invited him to join the faculty as
an instructor in Latin and Greek. Because of his enthusiasm and natural
eloquence his classes were always well attended.
During this time he
studied for the ministry under Dr. Nathan L. Rice, but found himself at
odds with some of the approaches of the Old School theology, and thus
chose to continue his studies under a local pastor while maintaining his
class load.
Not until 1866, when he was persuaded by a former student to accept
a call to the Westminister Presbyterian Church in Chicago, did he formally enter the field of ministry. His sermons attracted people from all
parts of the city and he became well-known for his simple, yet straightforward approach.
Thus, only a couple of years after his arrival, his
congregation and the North Church merged to form the Fourth Presbyterian
Church. And the crowds continued to come to hear him on Sundays.
The Chicago Fire interrupted normal parish activities, for Professor
Swing lost not only his home, all his possessions, and manuscripts of his
sermons, but his physical church as well.
With determination Swing and
his parishoners hired Standard Hall, but within a few weeks, the fireworn crowds attended in such numbers as to force a move to the larger
McVicker's Theatre, which the church leased for Sunday morning services.
The congregation rebuilt at the corner of Rush and Superior and it was
here that David Swing's greatest challenge would develop.
The young, independent, liberal's firey sermons were evidently misunderstood by some, for in 1874 Reverend Francis L. Patton of the Chicago
Theological Seminary brought charges of heresy against Swing, before the
Chicago Presbytery. The trial reached headlin~ proportions and lasted
two weeks.
Although Swing was acquitted and returned to his congregation, the case was appealed.
Unfortunately, the appeal resulted in the
banning of Swing and, subsequently, those of his congregation who had
pledged their support. With matters at such a peak, Swing resigned with
regret.
It was indeed a trying time for the young minister.
But he had
support of numerous citizens who rented the McVicker's Theatre again
his Sunday sermons.
So well attended were these sermons that the
Central Music Hall was leased for him and eventually part became
Central Church.
172
the
for
new
the
Professor David Swing
(1830~
1894)
As early as that harrowing suwmer of 1874, David Swing, in need of
rest and relaxation, had visited Lake Geneva as a houseguest of the
George Sturges family.
Undoubtedly his love affair with the area began
then for as he himself said, "Lake Geneva grows on one. The more you see
of it, the more you like it."
Swing liked to say that it was while he
was up here that he received the needed refreshment of body and spirit
to return to his busy congregation. The prominent minister later visited
with the Fairbanks and Leiters after the death of his wife in 1879.
In the fall of 1883, he decided to purchase a piece of property for
himself from J. S. Rumsey.
He then built his beloved Six Oaks, a plain
but substantial home on the south shore of the lake. It was large enough
to accommodate his frequent houseguests, but cozy enough to be enjoyed
by himself when he sought peace and solitude. Two of the more interesting features of the home were a staircase that split around the immense
fireplace in the main living room, and a sunken tub.
The doors to the
room containing the huge tub were leaded and beveled, as were most of the
windows throughout the home.
Both his daughters visited with him after their marriages, but it was
Helen Swing Starring and her husband, Mason, and two sons who spent the
most time here.
Unfortunately after Swing's death in 1894, a disagreement arose concerning not only where he would be buried, but the disposition of the Lake Geneva property as well. The two matters were resolved
in a court proceeding.
Swing was buried in Ohio, and Mason B. Starring
and his wife Helen took possession of the property. The young Starring
boys and their many friends kept things lively at Swinghurst, the name
selected by the Starrings for the estate.
The two boys had the Lenal,
purchased by their father at the Columbian Exposition, their father's
car and their sailboat to keep them busy.
They we~e great friends of
young Edward Swift and enjoyed testing the automobiles on back country
roads!
Mason B. Starring, Sr.
had perfected the American system
of baggage
173
G7p11 Lod£1
Home begun 1883
Property subdivided 1940's
Restaurant 1976
Residence after the addition of the tower, about 1893.
J. H. Dow (1884-1892)
J. M. W. Jones (1892-1920)
"Helen, I want you to look over this sketch and lettering. I'd like
to take it into the city with me tomorrow and have one of our engravers
get to work on it right away.
While you're doing that, I want to take
another look about the place, now that it's ours."
With the matter of
engraved stationary for the newly purchased summer place off his mind,
J.M.W. Jones headed out the front entrance into the bright October sunlight and took a deep breath.
He thoroughly enjoyed the brisk fall
breeze sweeping across the lake and rustling the oak and maple leaves
still remaining on the trees.
checking that had been originally invented by his father, Henry J. D.
Starring. Mason was associated with his father in business before studying law and returned to the railroad business in the mid 1880's when he
also began his legal practice.
In 1894, he was made assistant general
counsel of the Chicago City Railway Company, four years later assuming
the position of General Counsel.
Bwinghurst remained in the Starring family until 1934 when it was
subdivided. The mian house remains with the lake frontage.
Gypsy Lodge in 1885, residence of J. H. Dow.
It was 1892 and Jones had just completed the purchase of Gypsy Lodge,
completed in 1884 by J. Hall Dow, president of Union Brass Manufacturing
Company, on property purchased from J. S. Rumsey. Mrs. Dow had left the
lakeshore soon after her husband's untimely death in 1886.
Jones was
indeed pleased with the decision to buy this large rambling home and the
eight-acre parcel which included 600 feetofshoreline. The Jones family
had spent the last three summers at the lake, renting the Dow home the
summer of 1890, then Henry Strong's place across the lake in 1891 and
the Charles Baker place this past summer.
This home and the possibilities it offered seemed to be just perfect for their family.
Jones had reason
and family as well.
174
to be pleased with his purchase, and with himself
A self-educated man, he had arrived in Chicago in
175
1857, buying out Burley and Company, stationers.
The firm had been
founded even before Chicago was incorporated.
After changing the name
to J. M. W. Jones Company, it continued to grow and expand.
Like many
others he had been completely wiped out by the Chicago Fire, but he set
up shop immediately. The fire was not the only tragedy the Joneses were
to suffer, for this close-knit family later lost three children, all of
whom had reached maturity.
This fall the family, now consisting of two daughters and the only
surviving son, were delighted to be thinking about their own home here
on the lake.
Helen Snow Jones was particularly pleased, for her sister
Katherine Snow Isham, was just up the shore and the two families would
have plenty of time for leisurely visits.
One of the many assets of the home was it's commanding view of the
lake.
In the distance to the east, the city of Lake Geneva could be
seen, and a glance across to the north shore provided a view of the Narrows and the points beyond. However lovely the view and the ground~ the
Joneses were contemplating some changes before moving in the following
SWlliuer.
Plans were already drawn for an addition that would double the
size of the original residence. Within a few years another small addition would also be made.
Eventually the home would contain eight bedrooms, an elegant port chochere and numerous fireplaces throughout.
After the death of J.M.W. Jones at Gypsy Lodge in August of 1912, the
property passed to the remaining son, E. Lee Jones and his two sisters,
the Misses Katherine and Helen.
The home was renamed Sunnyoroft> but
few other changes were made.
!d~ha
Home completed 1896
Razed 1916
Part of State park 1976
BuUdina
Celia W. Wallace (1896-1900)
Harry Lawler (1900-1916)
The legends surrounding Mrs. Wallace and the Idaho Building are fascinating and the historian hesitates to destroy the illusion. Yet fact,
too, can be captivating.
Celia Whipple Wallace, reputedly a weal thy Chicago widow, was included
among the prominent guests who registered at the village's fashionable
Whiting House hotel as early as 1880. Passionately fond of costly jewels
and of wearing as many at one time as her somewhat ample facade could
possibly support, she was promptly dubbed the "Diamond Queen" by various
gentlemen of the Chicago press. Another personal characteristic brought
her even further attention---Mrs. Wallace was what is known in today's
vernacular as an "easy mark."
P. T. Barnum made his fortune at the expense of such trusting, big-hearted individuals; others adopted his ways
and succeeded in reducing Mrs. Wallace to poverty status by the time she
died.
She simply couldn't say no!
And this, coupled with a distinct
lack of good financial judgment, was her undoing.
The Joneses sold the estate to Dr. Stephan R. Pietrowicz, a Chicago
physician, in 1920. The main home later became known as
Sunnycroft
Lodge, a restaurant and guest house, and is now the Shore Club,
The
remainder of the estate was subdivided in the 1940rs.
Mrs. Celia Whipple Wallace, the "Diamond Queen".
Gypsey Lodge in 1895 after J. M. W. Jones addition.
176
A tract of bogland at Sand Beach had lain vacant for years when she
purchased it in 1891.
Supposedly she would break her tradition of summering at the Whiting House and would erect a mansion of her own. Henry
177
Lord Gay drew up plans, we're told, but for some reason construction was
never begun.
We can only conjecture that the seasoned architect wisely
refused to have anything more to do with it, once he saw the impossible
intended location.
Or perhaps, the part about the proposed mansion was
all just another rumor---local editors have traditionally been incurable
boosters, building sand castles the minute vacant property passed into
the hands of someone wealthy.
The Idaho Building had stood unwanted on the deserted Chicago grounds
of the Columbian Exposition for 2 years when Mrs. Wallace quite suddenly
purchased it and gave orders to have it reconstructed on her bogland at
Lake Geneva, obstensibly as a summer retreat for orphaned boys. Late in
July, 1896, the gigantic log chalet was completed, but as far as we know
was never used for that purpose, nor as a summer home, by Mrs. Wallace
who, by then, had switched her residence address to the Garrison Hotel,
the Whiting House having burned two years previously.
Yet these were active days for our mysterious Diamond Queen.
In the
dedication program of the local Congregational church dated January, 1897
we find her name listed as donor of the 3-sided Seth Thomas clock and
bell chime. Differing legends attempt to explain why her bank draft was
delayed (although the manufacturer must surely have received satisfaction
as the church was apparently neither dunned nor sued!) The charming stories reason that she had specified a 4-faced clock (a fourth face would
in actuality have been completely invisible behind a peak of the church
roof!) or that she could not hear the chimes from her Idaho Building window (when her window at the time was not on the Sand Beach but rather in
the hotel only half a block from the source of the sound!)
In 1899 she purchased the beautiful chapel designed by Tiffany for
exhibit at the Columbian Exposition and which he had since stored in his
New York studios. This was then installed in the crypt of the Cathedral
of St. John the Divine in New York City and used for all services until
the main choir was completed in 1911. Presumably Tiffany received prompt
payment, but even New Yorkers considered the donor a woman of mystery.
There were further examples of Mrs, Wallace's eccentricities both in
Chicago and New York.
Creditors hounded the door of her suite at the
magnificent new Auditorium in Chicago; the press made much of it all
Our pathetic, frustrated, frantic victim fled the scene.
She was last
seen in 1903 on a Brooklyn trolley car---again bedecked in all her costly
jewels---after which she disappeared until 1916 when she was suddenly
re-discovered, living in a "lonely hut" near New Haven, Connecticut,
devoid of jewelry, fortune, and apparently friends.
Idaho Building at Lake Geneva about 1898.
178
To Mrs. Wallace's credit she did however make one sagacious move: she
unloaded the unused Idaho Building and its water-logged acreage on one
George Thurman in April of 1900 for $15,000. Presumably, the story is
true that a rare Wisconsin River pearl was accepted in lieu of cash. A
year later Atty. Brown of Chicago (either the actual owner or acting as
agent) advertised desparately for a buyer---ANY buyer! No volunteer ap-·
peared. Various groups were said to have occupied the structure from
time to time: Mexican laborers hired by the Good Roads Association which
was then laying out paved access to the large estates, a student class
from the Art Institute, and unauthorized bands of Gypsies. Harry Lawler
the Chicago ice merchant, finally purchased the site for ice storage and
shipping purposes only to lose a lengthly court battle with indignant
lakeshore estate owners, who unanimously objected to their vistas being
marred by an unsightly ice-house. Meanwhile the building itself was neglected by its owner and abused and vandalized by non-owners. Locally it
gained repute as "haunted" and imaginations ran wild.
But in 1911 dismantling began as some of the mammoth logs were sawed into planks for
construction of the new city pier at the foot of Broad street, and by
1916, all that remained of the Idaho Building were the stone foundation
and towering chimney. Ghost-story enthusiasts wept.
179
Ceylon Court
The site of Celia Whipple Wallace's dream mansion has
been a part of Big Foot Beach State Park since 1949.
Horne built 1894
Razed 1958
Property subdivided 1948
F. R. Chandler (1895-1901)
J. J. Mitchell (1901-1928)
September 27, 1913
"Dearest Marna,
How we all missed you at the wedding.
The Mitchells
asked me to send their love to you and Papa and especially
to Grandmere Rice, whom we all hope is feeling much better.
I shan't be able to sleep a wink tonight and besides I
wanted to put everything down on paper so you could enjoy
Gwendolyn and Robert's wedding too.
The Mitchells and everyone have been simply marvelous
to me.
Marietta (Chapin) and I have had such fun, but
we've had little sleep, for we have talked until the wee
hours of the morning.
The Chapins insisted I stay with
them as planned, although many of the Mitchell's friends
offered guest rooms.
You know (and this may sound disloyal) the Coast, even
our beloved Newport, has nothing to compare with Ceylon
I can't quite believe it!
Mrs. Mitchell told me
Court.
that the main part of the home was brought to this country
by the government of Ceylon, as their contribution to the
Columbian Exposition of 1893.
She said F. R. Cha~dler
the Chicago realtor, purchasedthebuilding, carefully dismantled it, and brought it here the following winter in 26
boxcars.
Some of the Loramoor greenhouses, about 1917.
The carvings throughout the homearemagnificent---there
are over 60 hand carved columns inside.
But the most unusual part of the horne is the circular stairway that leads
to the upstairs bedrooms.
There are ornately carved wood
panels in a hexagon shape that enclose the stairs, reaching the full two stories.
Oh dear!
energy before
wedding.
shall most certainly run out of paper or
I've even begun a description of today's
All of our dresses were brought out from Chicago last
week, and the dressmaker arrived a day later for the last
minute adjustments.
Everything fit perfectly, even the
tiny little fur-trimmed hats, which we all wore. Marietta
and I were both in pale pink, the other colors being pale
180
181
green and pale yellow.
pink!
Fortunately, I look much better in
Ah, but I've nearly forgotton to mention the music.
Fifteen rnernbersofthe Chicago Symphony orchestra performed
for the ceremony, which was held in the large living room.
How I wish I could send you pictures!
As if the wedding and reception weren't enough excitement for today, Mildred's parents held a dinner dance at
Harrose Hall, the neighboring estate, after the reception.
The Blairs are leasing the mansion from the Selfridges for
the season.
Mrs. Blair is a lovely person and is Gwen's
favorite aunt.
Young Mildred Rice from New York City must have indeed been exhausted
for the week before the wedding had been filled with activities for the
wedding party and close friends.
The John J. Mitchells were a wellknown and popular couple both in Chicago and on Lake Geneva.
They had
purchased Ceylon Court from the F. R. Chandlers in June of 1901.
As
Mildred had indicated, the Chandlers bought the Singhalese Villa from the
Ceylon government at the close of the Columbian Exposition in 1893 and
had it moved to their property on Mannings Point.
The building was a
reproduction of a Buddhist temple and was constructed of 19 different
woods native to Ceylon.
After the Chandlers' purchase, an addition was
immediately undertaken under the guidance of architect Henry Lord Gay
and Mrs. Chandler, who had a very exacting eye for detail. She insisted
that the new addition be built of material from Ceylon and that the
method of original construction be duplicated.
In spite of my good intentions to include all the details, I simply shall have to close for now, for my eyes
are drooping ...
Your loving daughter,
Mildred
P. S.
Tell young Torn that I saw the famous "Dan Patch"
at the Mitchell stables and he autographed his own picture
with his hoof.
Entrance about 1902, then the home of J. J. Mitchell.
CeyLon Cou:t't about 1898. residence of F. R. Chandler.
182
The newspapers of the day followed the rebuilding and additions with
great gusto and no small eye for detail themselves, as the following
will attest: "The contract for roofing the Chandler building is $7,000.
It is made of the best tile and it is said it will last until time is
tired of waiting for decay.
The tunnel, which is being put in at this
place carries one back to old feudal days.
It starts from the basement
and thru many windings, finds its outlet at the water's edge some 200 to
300 feet from the building.
It is all arched with native boulders
thrown together in a manner seemingly so careless as to look as though
nature had piled them there.
But it is a solid wall of masonry.
This
will be the passage away from the lake to the residence so where the
tunnel enters the basement, an elevator runs to the upper stories,
thereby obliviating the difficulty of climbing the bluffs upon which the
building is situated."
In spite of this involved undertaking, the Chandlers remained at
Ceylon Court only six years, selling to the J. J. Mitchells in 1901. Of
course, the Chandlers were always welcome to visit at the neighboring
estate, Ha~~ose Hall, built by Mrs. Chandler's sister and her husband,
Harry G. Selfridge.
draft horses was attested to by the numerous blue ribbons proudly displayed about the barns.
"Dan Patch," undoubtedly the best loved equine
of the century, was housed in the Ceylon Court barn and many a youngster
thrilled to the view of the "blue ribbon horse."
Horses were a great
passion with both of the Mitchells, and their coach and four, with a
high-stepping team, was a familiar sight about the city and lakeshore.
The estate also was a gathering place for the junior Mitchells and
their friends.
In summer the house hwnmed with the sounds of young
people and their many activities. The steam yacht Louise, with its uniformed captain and steward, was always ready to ferry guests about the
lake.
It's no wonder that young Mildred Rice so enjoyed her visit to
Lake Geneva for the wedding of Gwendolyn Mitchell Hunter.
Recent generations may refer to Ceylon Cou:rt as the Maytag place, for
F. L. Maytag, the washing machine manufacturer, purchased the estate in
1928 following the tragic deaths of the Mitchells in an auto accident.
Mr, Maytag and his family retained the property until 1948, when it was
sold and subsequently subdivided.
The home was razed in 1958 and the
furnishings and trim sold at public auction.
Of the original buildings
west of the lakeshore road, the boathouse and gatehouse remain, both
having been converted to private residences.
Several structures which
were once part of the famed Ceylon Cou:t't Farm are now part of the Lake
Geneva Youth Camp
Under the Maples. the large frame home on the camp
grounds w·as originally built by the Chandlers in 1894 for use while construction of Ceylon Cow>t was underway.
John J. Mitchell, who, for many years, was considered the dean of
Chicago banking, had certainly earned that title.
After starting as a
messenger at the Merchants Loan and Trust Company (later Continental
Illinois National Bank), he rose to the position of President in six
years.
Shortly before Mitchell took office, the bank had seen a drop of
over $600,000 in the value of its capital.
His optimism and powers of
persuasion led the bank's directors to give the 24-year-old Mitchell the
opportunity to recover the losses, rather than to liquidate immediately.
His road to recovery often left bankers of the old school gasping, but
his perserverance paid off and the bank's deposits and capital stock
showed steady improvement. The story is told of a singular request.
A
"hurry call" to the bank for a loan of $100,000 was sent by P. D. Armour
from the floor of the stock exchange.
Young Mitchell refused to grant
the loan without collateral, a most unusual request in those times.
Armour finally acceded to the request, evidently deciding that perhaps
the idea had some merit.
The practice of posting collateral later became an established banking procedure.
Mitchell's time was not devoted completely to banking and civic projects, for it was under his ownership that the estate really blossomed.
Because of the family's desire to share their efforts, Lake Genevans,
guests and friends enjoyed free access to the grounds of the estate.
Visitors were requested to leave their rigs parked outside the entrance,
but were encouraged to walk about enjoying the beautiful American Beauty
roses.
The highlight of any v1s1t was a tour of the horse barn or perhaps,
if one was very fortunate, an exhibition of the champion draft horses in
the ring.
The success of the breeding and purchasing program of these
184
Mrs. John J. MitchelL
Elaborate circular staircase of Ceylon Court.
Central Hall (1958, Milwaukee Jov:rnal photo)
186
Reception room corner> showing the intricate~ hand carved
furnishings and unusual parquet flooring. (1958, M-ilwaukee
Journal photo).
Ceylon Court's last winter, 1957-8.
188
189
H~rro1a
Ha\11
Home built 1898
Partly razed 1923, subdivided
Razed 1975
H. G. Selfridge (1899-1922)
"Boy will ya look at that sight," Ted, age 15, exclaimed as he none
too gently nudged his friend Tommy, who, by his wide-eyed look, was
equally impressed. "Can't wait till the train stops."
"Whaddya say Ted?" Tommy shouted over the sound of the steam whistle
and the clackety-clack of the coach wheels as the train drew up alongside the Williams Bay depot.
Harry G. Selfridge (1858-1947)
"I SAID, LOOK AT ... " Ted toned down his volume, for the accompanying
train sounds were gradually receding, "that big lake and all them steam
yachts! Did ya ever see so many of them, huh?"
By now the entire coach full of young stock boys were peering delightedly out the windows, a few giving cat-calls of pure joy for the
weather, the ride and for all the fun that lay ahead this day.
with the housekeeper ~n last minute details.
A few other friends would
join them in time to greet the boys and to encourage them to take part
in the activities planned.
It was a warm August afternoon and Rosalie Selfridge was pleased that
her husband had arranged to bring the young boys out to the country for
A dapper young department manager attempted to gain the attention of
the boys. "Gentlemen, gentlemen, your attention please. PLEASE."
11 Yes
sir, yes sir. 1 '
The boys managed to tear themselves away from
the windows to listen to the young assistant manager of men's accessories
at Marshall Field and Company where they,
young men, were all employed.
and the other 10 car-loads of
With visible relief the assistant manager launched into the second of
his "major addresses" to the boys.
"I trust that you will remember to
pay your respects to Mr. Selfridge, who, incidentally, is a partner and
And keep in mind that this is
manager of the store, and to his wife.
the first time our annual outing has been held at a private residence,
not a public park,as is usual." He then paused to let the words sink in
and to catch his own breath.
In subdued tones one 14-year· old said to his seat-·mate, "Did ya get a
look at those yachts? Wow! Guess there must be ten or more out there,"
and then with a muffled guffaw, "just waiting for us!
Wonder which one
is Mr. Selfridge's? Guess the rest belong to his friends, huh?"
While the boys were
cially for their trip
transport them down the
completing arrangements
enjoying the luxury of coaches chartered espand of yachts awaiting their arrival, ready to
lake, the Selfridges.were busy at Harrose Hall
for the young lads' entertainment.
Mrs. Selfridge, the former Rosalie Buckingham, was the mother of three
young children. Her sister, Mrs. F. R. Chandler, had come over from her
neighboring estate, Ceylon Cou:rt, to help.
Together they were checking
190
Ha:rrose Hall about 1903, residence of H. G. Selfridge:
191
the day. She smiled briefly, thinking of how Harry greeted each new day
delighting in the challenges that lay ahead.
How many of these young
boys might have the opportunity to do the same?
Rosalie could almost
hear Harry's reply, "As many as wish to work hard and to take the initiative ... to do something! 11
Rosalie was most accurate in her imagined
conversation with her husband, for once, during a more formal interview
Selfridge observed, "Initiative in business, as in nearly everything
else, means the doing of things - the getting started."
Warming up to
the subject, he continued, "Initiative means ... recognizing and grasping
an opportunity.
It means the willingness to assume responsibility and
determination to fit oneself continually ... to carry out that responsibility with the greatest wisdom."
Harry Gordon Selfridge had arrived in Chicago in 1879. With a letter
of recommendation from Leonard Field, a cousin of Marshall, he became a
stock boy at Field, Leiter and Company.
Within four years he requested
a transfer to the retail store and began to shower Field with a series
of innovative ideas, thus earning the nick-name, "mile-a-minute-Harry."
Living up to his title, he sold Field on the basement "budget floor," a
central switchboard, an annual sale, a restaurant, a shoe department and
special children's department. Any one of those ideas should have proved
Selfridge's worth to the store. Selfridge evidently thought so too, for
in 1889 he approached Field stating, "I would like to be made a partner!"
This direct approach was rarely used by subordinates when speaking to
Field himself.
However, shortly after, Selfridge became a partner. By
1904 Selfridge was chaffing a bit under the guiding hand of Marshall
Field. Announcing his intention to enter business for himself, Selfridge
offered to stay on for a period of time.
According to reports, Field,
the man of few words, replied that he could leave tomorrow i f it sui ted
him.
and friendship felt for Selfridge, Lytton welcomed him back "not as the
great London Merchant Prince, but as a good old friend, come home once
more!"
Indeed both the Selfridges were deeply missed when they moved permanently to London.
Rosalie, a great beauty and noted hostess, was an accompl~shed woman.
She spoke a number of languages fluently and was an
excellent harpist, occasionally playing for a charity benefit. Throughout her life she showed a concern and interest in others.
It was in
191~ while working at the convalescent camp for American soldiers near
t~e1r country home, Highcliffe-on-Sea, that she contracted pneumonia and
d1ed.
Harrose Hall, the handsome stone and half-timbered mansion had two
outstanding features. The architect and the Selfridges carefully selected the placement of the home on the property, so that in spite of its
Slze, each window would provide a panoramic vista; it was an attribute
often appreciated by the many guests. The second major highlight was the
staircase which opened from a grand reception hall.
According to the
paper, "The designer has intended the staircase to be the most striking
feature of the edifice. It consists of a right and a left flight rising
and circling toward a common center, which is 10 feet above the place of
starting.
The face of this platform extended between the two flights
A seat is formed at
15 formed into a balcony with elaborate tracery.
this point overlooking the space below.
From this platform are four
broad steps reaching to a large bay window 24 feet wide, which overlooks
So Selfridge bought Schlesinger and Mayer, a Chicago department store.
The challenge fell short of what he had envisioned and he sold out to
Carson, Pirie, Scott just nine months later.
With the handsome profit
from that sale he was free again to, in his own words, "recognize and
grasp the next opportunity that came along."
The next challenge was provided halfway around the world in London,
England, where through a series of purchases and mergers, the great department store, Selfridges, emerged.
·
How did this dapper man, so trim in his expensive frock outfits,
appear to the English?
Selfridge later observed that his British
counterparts had been horrified at first by his full page news advertisements and other of his American innovations in merchandising, store
arrangement and management.
Contrary to the British merchants' dour
predictions, Selfridges of London was known for generations throughout
the British Isles and in many foreign capitals as the outstanding London
department store.
Selfridge was not forgotten by his former business associates in
America, for he was highly respected on both sides of the Atlantic.
In
1939, he and Henry C. Lytton were honored by the Association of State
Street Seniors and the State Street Council. As a measure of the esteem
192
Another view of Harrose Hall. 1905.
193
the lawn and driveway."
Fortunately, although visits by the family were infrequent after 1906,
the horne was carefully maintained until it was sold in 1922.
The next two owners not only subdivided the main grounds, selling
lakeshore lots on both sides of the home, but removed a full one-third
of the original home to make room for another lot,
About 1927 Lawrence
Whiting and his wife, Eleanor Countiss Whiting purchased the remaining
portion of the estate and home, naming it Somerset. In 1975 it was razed
by the family.
P@iDt C@mfort
Horne built 1884
Burned 1933
Property subdivided 1939, 1971
G. C. Walker (1884-1910)
H. A. Stillwell (1910-1921)
"Why not ask George Isham? He' 11 do a fine job. After all, doctors
are noted for their precise, legible handwriting."
The speaker, Julian
M. Rumsey, a close friend and contemporary of Isham, enjoyed his joke
while the others present accepted his suggestion; and George C. Walker,
acting chairman and host of the meeting, appointed Dr. George Isham to
take the minutes of the organizational meeting for the Lake Geneva Golf
Club.
The meeting had not yet been called to order and the men were still
exchanging greetings and getting settled.
"A bit nippy for December
30, I'd say," Wiley McCrea commented as he seated himself next to R. T.
Crane and continued, "Where is N. K. Fairbank?
After all, this golf
business was all his idea."
PlltVJli 'ti-C!f13
tit'!Ll.!A"¥$ BJ.f [;f}lJ,'f/j_
LAU. GtM,!i.iL "WJ.B.
Nodding, Crane observed, "Laying out that five hole course at his
Drew us all like bees
Butternuts this summer certainly did the trick.
to honey!"
"Well, now that we are hooked on the sport, I think Fairbank should
be here to help with the planning. After all, we don't want to have all
the fun," McCrea said with a wide grin.
This statement brought nods of agreement
elegantly appointed office of George Walker.
Walker formally called the meeting to order.
from all seated around the
It was at this point that
"First, Gentlemen, I would like to comment on N. K. 's absence
this
afternoon.
In point of fact, N. K. insisted that I do so. Helen's
parents are holding the annual family holiday gathering this afternoon
and N. K. pointed out that he did not wish to start the New Year with
any higher handicap than necessary.
He deeply regrets his absence."
George smiled and waited a moment for the inevitable reaction.
"And now, Gentlemen, for some specific matters of business.
I would
like to announce that George Isham, Julian Rumsey and myself were able
to arrange a lease on the Hatch property, and Julian completed the lay
out of the course on his last visit to the lake.
Thus we should expect
to be playing on our course late this spring."
The news brought an immediate response.
With a rueful smile and an attempt to look quite serious, George
called, "Order, order.
Your enthusiasm is appreciated.
And now if we
might clear up a few matters necessary for incorporation under the state
laws of Wisconsin ... "
194
The group quickly voted on the few remaining items on the agenda. They
195
would award the building contract to Richard Soutar, whom all agreed was
the best in the Lake Geneva area, and offer John Conicher the position
of club professional.
A few of the men had already talked to this
austere, but kindly Scotsman and felt certain he would accept.
Snow was gently falling as the men bid one another good night and
"Happy New Year." They left the Walker office at 355 North Dearborn and
quickly headed for the warmth and comfort of their homes.
Walker did not depart immediately.
After dismissing his clerk, he
sat for a few minutes at his desk, reflecting on the group of individuals
who had just left ... Samuel A. Allerton, Herbert A. Beidler, Frank R.
Chandler, Richard T. Crane, Dr. George S. Isham, Wiley S. McCrea, Henry
H. Porter, Julian M. Rumsey and Harry G. Selfridge.
"Fine gentlemen
"1895 has
and competitive sportsmen, all of them," George mused aloud.
been a good year, but 1896 will be even better!" George then decided i t
was time to head home and tell Mary and the family about the Lake Geneva
Golf Club which had just been formed.
Mary would
interest for
spacious wood
ed from S. H.
be delighted with the news for it opened another avenue of
them at Lake Geneva.
In 1884 the Walker's had built the
frame summer home Point Comfort on a parcel of land purchas-Wheeler.
(Walker) can look after the interests of the golf grounds in which he is
largely interested." Rumsey descendants recall the Ethe~ Mary regularly
picking up Julian Rumsey and then stopping at the Wheeler pier for young
Nat before heading for the club. All aboard would be in deep discussion
over the upcoming matches.
George Walker's enthusiasm for his steam yacht and for sports were
but two facts of this highly respected gentleman's interests.
Walker's
family business, which he took over from his father, was the forwarding
and commission house, George C. Walker and Company.
This involved him
in many related enterprises as well; these included lumber companies,
barges on the Hudson River and Erie Canal, propeller boats on the Great
Lakes and steamboats on the Mississippi.
Chicago investments also held
this remarkable man's interest, and he was dedicated to Civic planning.
In the 1870's he designed and developed the Morgan Park area, planting
hundreds of trees, building sidewalks and making numerous other improvements. Walker persuaded the Chicago Female College and the Baptist Union
Theological Seminary to move to Morgan Park and he himself contributed
the land and building for the Walker library there.
1902 drawing showing additions.
Point Comfort about 1885, residence of G. C. Walker.
Three years later, George launched his steam yacht, the Ethe~ Mary,
named for two little granddaughters, and for the next 18 years the boat
was a familiar sight on the lake. In the spring of 1896, according to a
local paper, the boat "was steamed up early this season so that he
196
That those in education and business held Walker in great esteem was
evidenced when he was one of only two members of the original Board of
Trustees of the first University of Chicago asked to serve on the new
board when the University was being re-organized in 1889.
Walker gave
197
unstintingly of his time
Walker Musuem in 1893.
and
money
to the University,
donating
Kn~ll
the
After Walker's death in 1905, the family maintained Point Comfort
until lake 1910 when it was sold to H. A. Stillwell of Chicago,
In addition to the many social ties Homer Stillwell and his wife, Ellen,
enjoyed with the lakeshore set, there were numerous business connections
as well.
Stillwell sat on the board of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa
Fe Railroad and had shared many exchanges with the dynamic General Henry
Strong, whose home was across the lake.
He was also a member of the
Merchants Loan and Trust Company where his good friend J. J. Mitchell
was president.
Stillwell himself was president of Butler Brothers, a
wholesale firm, and was very active in civic affairs. Perhaps his greatest personal concern, however, involved the activities of the American
Red Cross, for he served as a member of the executive committee of the
Chicago chapter for many years.
Although Stillwell died in 1918, his widow and sons, Wellesley and
Wellesley and his bride,
Addison, remained at the lake until 1921.
Courtney Letts of Lake Forest, were close friends of the young William
Mitchells of nearby CeyZon Court.
Home built 1884, burned 1905
Second home built 1906
Property subdivided
Priavte residence 1976
S. H. Wheeler and heirs (1885-present)
"Samuel, Samuel!
Oh dear, where indeed has that man gone?"
Dora
Wheeler strode determinedly across the veranda and down the steps of the
newly-built Knoll.
Even as she questioned her husband's whereabouts,
Dora mentally checked off a n\llllber of items that needed attention. "Completion is more like it," she murmured to no one in particular.
Following the shaded path down the high hill to the lake, she continued, "And then we need more towels for the bathrooms.
Imagine letting
Samuel talk me into eight bathrooms!"
Dora neatly side-stepped four
very feminine leghorn bonnets decorating the lawn about the hammock, and
continued down to the pier.
"And oh yes, more shelves. Definitely more shelves for the children's
room on the first floor." Here she paused, mentally envisioning the numerous bedrooms on the second floor and deciding exactly how many shelves
were needed and just where they should be placed.
Where did they get
all those books, she wondered. No matter. All the books were treasured
ones---friends, really.
A later owner was tried for arson following the 1933 fire which completely destroyed Point Comfort.
The estate has since been subdivided
and now includes Lake Geneva East Shores Estates and Vista Del Lago.
The Knoll in 1885, residence of S, H. Wheeler.
Grounds of the Lake Geneva Country Club, before 1914.
198
Smiling once more, Dora stepped onto the pier and out into the sunlight, A burst of giggles from a nearby clump of birch momentarily surprised her. As she turned toward the sound, 15-year-old Ellen and three
of her friends shouted "Surprise! Surprise!" and bounded out onto the
pier.
"Oh Mother, Theodora won't join us for a swim.
She won't do anything
but .... "
"Tut, tut, Ellen. Your sister is concentrating on a reading list she
wants to complete this summer before applying to Vassar. Now girls, do
join me on the porch for a cool glass of lemonade, and see if you can
locate any other thirsty bodies.
And oh yes, do pick up your lovely
bonnets."
An approaching steamer caught her eye as she was finishing her instructions to the girls, and she decided to wait.
It was the Drakes'
Aloha, recently purchased from the Walker estate. Many a happy golf outing had begun on the Walkers' old Ethel Merry, Dora recalled, "but now a
new era has begun and . ... Heavens!
What's this? 1 '
Amid much ribbing, Tracy Drake and his "crew" were attempting to land
the craft themselves without the aid of its usual captain, who was standing by with a noncommittal look on his face---or at least what he HOPED
was a noncommittal look.
"Ahoy there, ahoy! I've brought your men home safe and sound," Tracy
called out, pleased to have an audience for one of his first pier landings. Soon the boat's occupants had been persuaded to join the Wheelers
for some refreshment, and the group trooped up the hill to the veranda.
Samuel H. Wheeler, in addition to his involvement in the Connecticut
family business, Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, had his own inter-
The second Knoll. built in 1906.
200
ests in grain in Minnesota.
Like his father-in-law, he was a member of
Chicago's Board of Trade.
Sam had invested in Lake Geneva property in
the very early days. At one time he had owned everything on either side
of Highway 120 between Stone Manor and Button Brothers, excluding his
father-in-law's Shadow HiZZ holdings, of course.
His first wife, Amelia Rumsey, died in the early 80's, and shortly
after his marriage to her sister Theodora, the first Knoll was erected
in 1885, replacing a tiny cottage of earlier days. This home served the
Wheelers for 20 years before it was destroyed by fire in February, 19Q5.
It was immediately replaced with the second structure---and those copious
bathrooms-·--and the family and salvaged furniture moved right back in.
The home was a busy place.
Not only were there the three Wheeler
children, Theodora, Nathaniel and Ellen, but a constant stream of friends
and relatives, making full use of the numerous bedrooms.
All of this
Dora took in her stride.
Young Theodora graduated from Johns Hopkins
Medical School in 1916 and promptly married a fellow-classmate, William
P. Finney.
The couple could not have honeymooned bere even if they'd
wanted to---the KnoZZ, as usual, was already filled to capacity!
But the story doesn't end here. The Doctors Finney and their children
continued to make this their summer home throughout their distinguished
careers, first in Baltimore, then at Mayo Brothers and lastly in private
practice in Chicago,
Following Dr. W. P. Finney's death in 1955, portions of the property were subdivided,
His widow stayed on in the old
home until 1971 before moving to a new, modern residence immediately
south. Although the Knoll itself passed from family hands at that time,
the majority of the estate and the newer home are still owned by WheelerRtunsey descendants, Ellen Finney Jones and her £ami ly.
Faithfully they
observe a tradition established 103 years ago, the lake record!
Sh1dlow Hill
Home completed 1873
Burned 1928
Property subdivided 1952
J. S. Rumsey (1873-1890)
R. N. Isham (1890-1920)
ribbing good-natuTedly and continued his activities. Julian (Sr.), finishing a conversation with Ed Ayer (whose new boat Emma was competing
this year for the first time), looked over toward the young people,
thinking how good it was to have them back.
Ada and Juliette were at
Vassar, George at Williams, and Julian and John at Racine College.
But attention that day centered on the race. In addition to the Ayer
boat, the Nettie, would have to beat Van Slyck's Clara, Ducat's Geneva
and Bonita, and Napper's Lucy Belle.
It was no secret that the General
was serious about racing.
And yet, hours later, it was not either of
the General's entries which triumphed.
The winner of the 1875 race was
again the Nettie, and as Julian Rumsey accepted the trophy (a silver
replica of his own boat) from General Philip Sheridan, he promised to
make every effort to repeat his success the following year. (Other contestants would be rising to the challenge however, and not until 1891,
when the younger Julian sailed his Expert to victory, would the Rumsey
clan reclaim the prized Sheridan Cup.)
The elder Julian's devotion to competitive sailing was well documented. His daughter Eliza recalled many years later that the summer of the
first boat race in J872 "Father was asked by a townsman to sail the Lillian .. . he took one of Mother's. precious sheets, made a-jib and won the
race .... Father loved boats as if they were almost human .... (he) would
sit up with them during storms."
Sheets were indeed precious that year, for the Rumseys and many other
valiant survivors were struggling to replace household as well as business goods lost in the Chicago Fire the preceeding autumn.
Shado1LI Hill about 1885, residence of J. S. Rumsey.
Some of the local musicians were grouped together warming up their
instruments, although one didn't need a drum and bugle corps to announce
that this was a festive occasion. It was the second annual race for the
Sheridan Cup, and, if one was to believe newspaper reports of the preceeding weeks, it would be a highly competitive race! Friends and families were gathered about the starting point. Crews were milling about,
making last minute preparations and some fierce-sounding challenges were
being exchanged.
It was August 31, 1875, and talk centered on the competition between General Ducat and Julian S. Rumsey.
"Sam, oh Sam! Grab these sails." Twenty-year-old Julian M. Rumsey,
who, along with his brother George and Sam Wheeler would crew for the
Nettie, was busy organizing eveTyone and taking some gentle teasing from
his two older sisters, Amelia and Martha.
"That's right, Julian.
You give the ordeTs," Amelia sang out.
Her
interest in the race was definitely twofold.
Her father's Nettie had
been the winner of the Sheridan Cup Race last yeaT and she was anxious
to cheer him on; however, crew-member Sam Wheeler also held her interest
for they would be married the following summer.
Julian (Jr.) took the
202
Attracted to the area by their good friends, the George Sturgeses,
the Rumseys had spent the summer of 1871 at Mrs. Tamlin's boarding house
in the village of Geneva, returning there only hours after their Chicago
home burned in the Great Fire.
Some of the children were still dressed
in nightclothes.
By the fall of 1872, the Rumseys were ready to build
on their extensive property on the east shore of Geneva Bay.
The gracious Shadow Hill was occupied the following summer.
Julian S. Rumsey had begun his business career in the still .. infant
Chicago in 1841 with his uncle, George W. Dole.
The firm was known as
Dole, Rumsey and Company until 1852 when his uncle withdrew. Thereafter
it became known as Rumsey Brothers and Company, trade commissioners. He
also served a term as mayor of the city (1861-62) and two terms as president of the Board of Trade.
Although he was obviously active in business and community affairs,
his family and their interests occupied a considerable amount of his
time. Ten of the Rumsey children grew to adulthood and they recall Shadow Hill overflowing with children and guests.
They also remember that
their father was quite progressive for his time; the girls, as well as
the boys, were sent away to such citadels of learning as Vassar and
Williams as early as 1867.
After the death of Julian S. in 1886, the
family moved to smaller quarters, and the estate was leased to William
Borden and then to Ralph Isham. The latter purchased it in 1890.
203
He was one of the founders of the Chicago Medical College (later to
be a part of Northwestern University and currently included in Northwestern Memorial Hospitals).
He held the chair of surgery and anatomy
in this college for many years. Isham also served as a contract surgeon
during the early days of the Civil War. In addition to his private practice, he served as chief surgeon of the Chicago &Northwestern Railway;
con~ulting surgeon of Cook County, Presbyterian and Passavant hospitals;
and as surgeon of the Illinois National Guard's first regiment.
Ralph and Katherine Snow were married shortly after his arrival in
Chicago, raising a family of four: Katherine, who married Arthur Farwell;
Ralph, Jr., who married Lucy Keep; Harriet, who married George A. Carpenter; and Dr. George, who married Katherine Porter. Before the family
purchased Shadow Hi~~, they had visited here frequently.
The Sturgeses
were often their hosts for boating and sporting events.
Dr. Ralph Isham (1831··1904)
"Did you read the article on nitrous oxide in the Journal this month?"
George Isham asked, turning to his father who was climbing the steps to
the porch of Shadow Rill.
The estate, under the !shams, continued to be a gathering place for
family and friends. The !shams were active in the early Garden Club activities and in the founding of the Lake Geneva Country Club.
The family maintained the property for 30 years.
"Yes, and I intended to ask for your comments on it," Ralph, the senior doctor in the family, replied as the two men seated themselves in
large wicker chairs. Continuing, Ralph asked, "Wasn't the young author,
Thompson, I believe, in your class at medical school?"
"Same one, and as I recall he was always disturbed
given to nitrous oxide-- -·1 aughing gas."
by the nickname
"Ah well, the name isn't important. Yet, his research shows he has a
fine head on his shoulders.
I've been concerned for quite some time
about the use of this gas resulting in possible brain damage ... "
"Oh, as a result of insufficient oxygenation,
young George.
"Exactly!
you mean," interrupted
You see, I've long believed ... , 1 '
And the conversation continued, becoming deeply specific and scientific (and, as the girls of the family were heard to remark on more than
one occasion, "Much too cerebral! !l)
Dr. Ralph N. Isham was a prominent surgeon and practitioner during
the latter half of the nineteenth century.
Arriving in Chicago about
1855 he was faced with the first of many critical medical decisions he
would eventually have to make.
The case involved the son of a leading
Presbyterian minister, who lay suffering from a severe case of quinsy.
The young doctor performed a tracheotomy!
This hi.ghly progressive procedure was unheard of in Chicago, and further, it was highly suspect by
many of the people of the time.
The complete recovery of the patient
provided a fine foundation on which the youthful physician built his
medical reputation.
204
Shadow Hill in 1902, residence of R. N. Isham.
After selling Shadow Hill- in 1890, Mrs. Rwnsey and her family purchased Willow Landingj at the south edge of the village.
In 1920 the
Isham descendants sold Shadow Hill to Edward C. Waller, a Chicago real
estate dealer, who leased the home to various prominent families before
it burned to the ground in 1928
The property is now Syverstad subdivision.
ljair Oaks
J. S. Norton (1890-1897)
Albert Keep (1897-1915)
E. J. Doering (1916-1924)
Home begun 1889
Private estate 1976
The sounds of a soft summer evening were barely audible to the gentlemen seated on the porch of Fair Oaks, for they were deeply interested in
their host's comments. J.S.Norton turned slightly in his wicker chair to
offer a light to one of his guests before commenting on Tom Henderson's
views on anti-trust legislation.
"Well, as you know, the idea has been discu~ed here in the mid-west,
but I am not prepared to say whether I think our Illinois legislature is
ready to pass such a bill," Norton observed.
Henderson offered another comment that brought a chuckle from a few
of the men and slight frowns from others, "But Wisconsin is a different
story, don't you think?"
Norton reflected a moment, and then predicted, "Undoubtedly the bill
before Congress will pass this session and then the states will have no
choice in the matter."
The conversation continued with one of the men
finally noting, "Well, for lawyers such as Norton and myself, an antitrust law would provide some sure-fire excitement in the courts!"
On that light note
the
ge~lemen
headed back into the house
the ladies and perhaps to overhear the feminine views on the newly opened Auditorium Theatre, which had been the highlight of the fall social
season.
Indeed, the selection of the ladies' ball gowns was still a
prime topic with some Chicagoans.
James Sager Norton, a graduate of Yale and of Columbia Law School,
was in partnership with John Jewett for many years. Later he became a
partner of Norton, Burley and Howell.
Fair Oaks was designed by architect James Silsbee, who was the first
employer of Frank Lloyd Wright.
Norton selected Richard Soutar for the
job of general contractor, and the home was completed in 1890. Norton's
wife, Fanny, was a niece of Julian S. Rumsey, and the family had been
guests at Shadow HiZZ before purchasing the property in 1889 from Samuel
Wheeler, Rumsey's son-in-law.
The two Norton girls enjoyed the proximity of their Rumsey cousins
and visits between the families were frequent. Competition played a part
in the cousins' lives too, for both the families were highly competitive
sailors, and both hoped to bring home the Sheridan Cup after the 1892
season. Rumsey's Expert had won the trophy the previous year, and he
was determined to win again. But Norton's new boat, the TattZer, sailed
to victory.
The prized Sheridan Cup was proudly displayed at Fair Oaks
the ensuing twelve months.
Following Norton's death
in 1896,
the home was sold to Albert Keep.
to join
.. . in 1906, residence of Albert Keep.
Fair Oaks about 1895, residf'nce of J .S. Norton.
206
Albert Keep and Dr. Ralph Isham were enjoying a leisurely lunch together at the Chicago Club in the city, where their discussion centered
on the recent marriage of Albert's daughter, Lucy to Ralph's son, Ralph,
207
Jr.
the community high school, with funds to carry out the project.
"Well, I can't tell you how pleased we are with our young couple.Both
fine youngsters," Albert commented reflectively.
"You know, Albert," Ralph began, "I've been waiting to broach an idea
that c.oncerns you, and I think this is the perfect time.
Many of us
think you ought to consider coming up to the lake and spending your summers there. Especially now that Lucy and Ralph plan to join us.
"Can't say the idea doesn't have appeal, but ... "
"Well, I don't think you have to consider purchase immediately.
not lease a place for a year or two?" Isham suggested.
Why
"That makes more sense,from both a business and personal standpoint,"
observed Keep, president of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway Company.
Both men smiled.
They had been friends for years and Isham served as
chief surgeon for the same railroad line.
Ralph added fuel to his argument by pointing out that Selfridge had
rented the Dow place for two years before building Harrose Hall, and
J.H. Moore had rented the Dunlap place before undertaking the construction of Loramoor.
"I might note as an aside that I have no intention of undertaking anything quite on THAT scale," Keep laughingly observed.
"No, but I happen to know that the Porter cottage will be vacant this
swnmer, and Katherine and George mentioned her parents would be delighted
to see you have it," came the rebuttal.
It took a year for the idea to take root, but in the summer of 1894,
Albert Keep and his wife so thoroughly enjoyed their few weeks at the
Porter cottage that the following summers they rented the H. S. Rich
cottage on Campbell street, the J. R. Wilson's Sunset Ridge and J. S.
Norton's Fair Oaks, before purchasing the latter property in October of
1897.
Albert Keep, originally of Homer, New York, arrived in Chicago, via
Whitewater, Wisconsin, about 1856 to successfully establish a wholesale
dry goods business under the name of Keep and Company.
However, the
field of real estate investment also challenged Keep, and he soon found
himself in charge of purchasing the necessary right-of-way for the
Lakeshore and Michigan Southern and the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific
railroads.
It was an involved job, and his discreet handling of the
matter was noticed and praised by many. In 1873 Keep was elected president of the Chicago and Northwestern, then in a run-down state.
During
the next 15 years he devoted his efforts entirely toward its rebuilding
and development, meeting with enviable success. He served on the boards
of the Merchant's Loan and Trust Company and the Chicago Home for Incurables.
Locally
he was a generous contributor to the YMCA. Mrs. Keep
donated equipment for preserving and mounting butterflies and moths to
208
Although the couple's only daughter, Lucy Keep Isham, died in 1894 at
age 26, she left an infant son, Albert Keep Isham, who was a frequent
visitor as he grew to manhood.
Albert Keep died in 1907 but his widow continued to summer here until
about 1915. At that time Fair Oaks was purchased by E. J, Doering. The
property has changed hands many times, but the home and grounds are still
maintained as a private estate.
"Know the people who owned this house before?"
ask.
Moorings
Home built 1874
Moved 1898
Razed 1938
G. L. Dunlap (1875-1897)
Otto Young (1897-1901)
one workman paused to
"Yep, fine people, the George L. Dunlaps. Built the place in '74 and
every year for awhile added something in the way of improvement to the
property. She was the daughter of Mayor Rice of Chicago, they say, and
he was kinda high up in the Chicago and Northwestern 'bout the time folks
were trying to get it to come to town.
Don't know if the train came
first and the Dunlaps followed, or if he just wanted to have a more comfortable way to get here .... anyway he had something to do with it.
Had
a fine steam yacht,too, called the Gertie that always took people out on
the lake to watch the sailboat races. His old horse "Dandy" was 38 when
she died.
Guess old George started feeling poorly himself right after
that.
Oh, they were fine people, fine people."
Soutar obviously enjoyed sharing his information.
His attention however, was drawn to the
arrival of a coach-in-four, and, noting it contained his employer, he
headed quickly in that direction.
The sight that greeted Otto Young that September day of 1898 was one
of well-directed activity. Groups of men were hauling over-size timbers
toward the house, others were busy putting the cribbing in place. Still
another was setting up jack screws.
The remaining men were placing the
capstan and hitching the horses to it. Thus the Moorings literally gave
way to Yo~~s.
The Moorings in 1885, residence of G. L. Dunlap.
The contractor, Richard Soutar, squinted as he looked up
rough sketches of the house-moving project.
from the
"Yep, this is going to be quite a job," he thought as he shaded his
eyes and glanced at the old, but well maintained, Dunlap home. "Been lots
of people who stayed here.
Guess I built my share of the places they
owned afterwards," and names such as Egan and Moore came to mind.
"But none were better than old George Dunlap and his missis who lived
here at the Moorings," he decided, now talking aloud with only the squirrels as a disinterested audience. "Sure like that name, too."
Being basically a man of action, and noticing the arrival of some of
his men, he immediately. gave directions for the distribution of materials
and tools. Soutar expected Otto Young, who purchased the place the preceeding fall, to appear at any moment.
Mr. Young wanted to observe the
moving of his home from i;ts; lakeside location to its new site some thousand feet east on the opposite side of the main road. Soutar would make
a few repairs and some additions to the 18-room home, for the Youngs expected to live there until their lakefront mansion was completed.
210
lands
Home begun 1899
Property partly subdivided 1939
Restaurant-Condominium 1976
Otto Young and heirs (1901-1939)
The ballroom with its ornate marble fireplace, huge mirrors, $8,000
chandelier and gilt and satin chairs, measured 40 by 30 feet.
Marble
pillars separated the main public rooms and the staircase hall, another
gigantic room by today's standards.
Leading to the dining room, where
up to 100 guests could be seated at the huge hand-carved table, was an
eight-foot-wide corridor lined with elaborately carved satinwood panels.
Here the Youngs displayed their substantial art collection.
The Italian-style palace, designed by Henry Lord Gay, with Richard
Soutar as contractor, would begin to take shape the spring of 1900 and
would finally be completed in May, 1901. What a palace it was! Originally the structure alone was to cost $150,000, but with the many additional elaborations (i.e., gold plated electrical fixtures throughout
the main floor with sterling silver counterparts on the second; ceilings
hand-carved out of mortar and lavishly decorated by imported European
artists with breath-taking oil paintings; profuse use of 18-carat gold
leaf) the cost easily soared to well over a million.
Set off by a 250··foot-wide veranda, the mansion stretched 174 feet as
it faced the lake and was 70 feet deep.
Into the exterior stonework
were carved, among other things, likenesses of the four Young daughters,
Cecilia, Catherine, "Daisy" and Laura, still evident today. Broad steps
led from the veranda to the reception hall.
Ballroom of Young lands.
In addition to the parlor,
library,
billiard room, butler's pantry,
two refrigerating rooms, servant's dining room and vast kitchen, was the
music room.
The latter, by far the favorite of visitors through the
years (and perhaps the Youngs' too), contained three-dimensional panels
of classic musical instruments, each hand-carved and each accentuated by
unbelievable colors and gold leaf. Inlaid in the floor was a large star
design which some thought resembled the Star of David, but in reality it
did not. Lining the walls of the broad, heavily carved staircase, which
rose to the third floor, were rich tapestry panels.
The second floor contained nine bedrooms averaging 20 by 25 feet with
connecting sitting rooms and baths. The main suite opened onto a generous balcony facing the lake.
All rooms were sumptuously decorated in
heavy satin brocades which covered chairs, beds and the giant windows.
On the third floor were seven guest bedrooms and seven servants rooms
(the latter, of course, safely isolated from any contact with the former.)
The fourth floor was designed for recreation and contained a large gymnasium and even a miniature 9-hole golf course! The roof was originally
intended as a garden.
Younglands nearing completion 1900, residence of Otto Young.
212
Even the basement was fabulous. There one found a three-lane bowling
alley, a huge vault for the family valuables, a bicycle storage room,
Plaborate laundry and drying rooms, and a mammoth coal room whose capac213
ity was based on the amount of coal needed to supply the double system
of steam heating boilers. These were designed so that if one boiler was
to fail, the other would surely keep the Youngs warm.
There were over fifty rooms in all to house the family, guests and
staff of 25 to 30 house servants. One would think this more than adequate
and yet, Mrs. Young had a sun parlor added above the dining room during
the year following her husband's death.
But a house, even a mansion the size of this, is more than stone and
mortar, elaborate fixtures and carvings.
The man and family who lived
here are of interest too. Otto Young, arriving in Chicago shortly after
the Great Fire, had wisely foreseen its future development, and selected
real estate as the vehicle on which to build a fortune. His acquisition
of large amounts of business-area property proved most astute, for the
economic boom of the 80's sent property values along State Street sky
high. Those who were already moderately wealthy became millionaires almost overnight if they owned such parcels. While Young is popularly remembered as part-owner of the Fair store at State and Adams, his greatest wealth lay in the earth beneath.
When Otto Young died in late November, 1906, he left an estate conservatively valued at $25 million.
"A quiet, unostentatious man," said
the local editor in eulogy, "and an excellent citizen who will be missed
in Lake Geneva."
This would hardly seem fitting somehow for the owner
of huge, pretentious Stone Manor (as it was more popularly called).
While the description may surprise some, the list of honorary pallbearers at his funeral reads like a register of "Who's Who" in business
and social circles in the early 1900's. Among those serving were Charles
Wacker, A. C. Bartlett, C. C. Kohlsaat, W. J. Chalmers, Albert Keep, H.
H. Kohlsaat, H. A. Beidler, T. J. Lefens, H. G. Selfridge, Samuel Allerton, R. T. Crane, C. L. Hutchinson, J. J. Mitchell, Martin Ryerson, N.W.
Harris and numerous others.
For the most part, however, after his passing Mrs. Young and her
daughters did not involve themselves with the usual round of activities
at the lake.
They rarely spent complete summers here, preferring to be
abroad.
In 1911 the coach barn was closed, the horses and equipment
sold, the furnishings draped. Pinkerton detectives kept a careful watch
over the fabulous estate the family seemingly no longer wanted.
Following the death of Mrs. Young in 1916, the Lake Geneva holdings
were purchased from her estate by her eldest daughter 3 Cecilia Heyworth
deKorwin" Although the home and grounds were carefully maintained, they
were seldom visited by the family during her lifetime.
The estate then
passed to her daughter, Gwendolyn Heyworth Koch, in 1938.
The latter
presented the mansion and about 8 acres of surrounding land to the order
of St, Anne to be used as an Episcopalian private school for girls. The
remaining portions of the huge estate were subsequently sold also.
The
school was discontinued after only a few y"ears. Today the property containing the lovely coach barn and that containing the mansion are owned
by a corporation which operates a gourmet restaurant on the main floor
of the palatial home and proposes condominium use of the rest.
214
Important Dates
1637
1831
1836
1837
1839
1856
.1870
1871
1873
1874
1875
1876
1879
1880
1881
1882
1884
1885
1886
1888
First white men visit site of Chicago (Marquette and Joliet.)
First white men visit Lake Geneva area (Kinzie party,)
First cabin built in Geneva by Christopher Payne.
Big Foot and his tribe evicted, transported to Kansas.
Chicago incorporated as a city (population 4,170.)
First land sale in Walworth County ($1.25 per acre.)
Geneva incorporated as a village (population 1,500.)
First railroad reaches Geneva from Elgin (discontinued 1860.)
Chicago's population at 300,000- Geneva's reaches 1,700.
First summer mansion begun, Shelton Sturges's Maple Lawn.
Forest Glen Park opened.
Camp Collie established.
Lake Geneva Seminary completed its dormitory.
First railroad reaches Geneva from Chicago.
Stanley finds Livingston.
Great Chicago Fire, October 8-9.
General U.S. Grant visits here.
Second summer mansion begun, J. S. Rumsey's Shadow HiU.
Nationwide panic begins, depression follows.
Whiting House hotel opened.
First excursion steamer, Lady of the Lake, launched.
P. T. Barnum opened his Greatest Show on Earth in New York.
Railroad runs increased to four per day.
Kayes Park opened.
First private camp established, Elgin Club.
W. C. T. U. founded.
General Sheridan here; first Sheridan Cup race held.
First private steam yacht launched, George Sturges's Arrow.
Harvard Club established.
Butternuts burned.
Custer's last stand.
Telephone line completed around Geneva Lake,
Railroad now has 10 arrivals and departures per day.
Train tickets changed to "Lake Geneva" to avoid confusion.
Pishcotaqua Park hotel opened.
Thomas Edison's light bulb gaining favor.
Summer estate building boom begins.
Oak Hill Cemetary opened; 40 acres for $2,000.)
Congress Club established on shore of Williams Bay.
Post Office changes name to Lake Geneva to avoid confusion.
YMCA Camp established.
First skyscraper built in Chicago (10 stories.)
First cement sidewalk laid in village.
Village of Geneva becomes City of Lake Geneva, population 2,300.
Haymarket Riot in Chicago.
First commercial use of phonograph.
Railroad spur to Williams Bay completed.
Holiday Home opened.
Beefsteak 10¢ per pound.
1890
1892
1893
1894
1895
1896
1899
1901
1902
1904
1905
1906
1908
1910
1912
1913
1915
1919
1920
Telephone line completed between Lake Geneva and Chicago,
McKinley Tariff, Sherman Anti-Trust Act.
Trend to private ownership gradually closing public resort parks,
Glenwood Springs hotel opened; first subdivision.
Pishcotaqua Park hotel burned.
Columbian Exposition opens in Chicago,
First zipper manufactured.
Pullman Strike.
Nationwide panic, depression follows,
Aspirin comes into use.
Mary D. Sturges gives home and property to city for library.
Government survey reveals 14-foot shortage between lake shore and
north section line. City takes no action. (Main Street "jog"
at Cook Street remains today.)
Whiting House hotel burned.
First auto race in U.S., Chicago to Waukegan, 53 miles at an
average speed of seven and one-half miles per hour,
Construction begun Yerkes Observatory (completed 1897.)
Dispatch flounders in sudden storm, six drowned.
Dynamo arrives for electric power in Lake Geneva.
Lake Level Protection Company buys water-power rights.
Lake Geneva Golf and Country Club opened.
Alaskan gold rush.
Track laid for trolley line between Harvard and Fontana.
Kayes Park closed.
Queen Victoria dead.
Panama Canal begun.
Good Roads Association formed.
First Mid-summer Fair held on Leiter grounds.
New YMCA building dedicated, F. L. Chapman president.
Lake Geneva Yacht Club opened first clubhouse at Cedar Point.
Model-T introduced by Henry Ford.
Halley's Comet.
Geneva Hotel opened, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.
Ice House Oispute settled, Lawler's ice house comes down.
First gas station in U.S.
First Federal Income Tax.
Clubhouse at Lake Geneva Country Club burned.
Federal 8-hour work day established.
Williams Bay incorporated as village.
Chicago's population 2.7 million; Lake Geneva, 2,600;
Williams Bay, 436.
Fontana trolley line discontinued.
Women get to vote.
Prohibition.
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108,118,124,134,142,144,148,159
Wo1fmeyer, Ann 115,203
i
Ebenezer Buckingham
m ?
Dimon Sturges
Sarah Perry
If
Eben P. Sturges
m 1) Amanda Buckingham
2) Jerushra M. Hale
1
•
'
;
Sarah Sturges
~.-Ebenezer Buckingham Jr.
m Eben. Buckingham Jr.-~
!"_ 1) Sarah Sturges
2) Eunice Hale
Solomon Sturges
Lucy Hale
J. Rockefeller Prentice
1
r--
I
Alva Buckingham
Lna
Hale
Eb!n Buckingham I I I •uzs
(1829-1912)
11- - - - - - - - - · - - - · · - - · - !"_ Lucy Sturges
Wi 11 iam Sturges
(1824-1894)
!". 1) Caroline Potwin
Shelton Sturges
(1828-1888)
m Frances Rowena Nye
Lucy Sturges
(1831-1889)
m Eben. Buckingham II I
Buckingham Sturges
(1833-1889)
m Susan R. Benton
m Eliza Graham
Sartell Prentice
m ?
Lily Benton Sturges
(1871-1938)
Nathaniel K. Fairbank
(1829-1903)
m Helen L. Graham
m Wm. F. Durruner
Benjamin Carpenter
(1865-19 )
Marion D. Sturges
(1870-19 )
m Samue 1 Dauchy
m Wrn T. Johnson
Julia Floyd Sturges
(1879-1881)
George Sturges Jr.
(1884-19 )
m Lelia C. Parker
_j
Ralph N. Isham
(1831-1907)
m Kate Snow
Henry H. Porter
(1837-1910)
rn Eliz. T. French
Henry
Ralph N. Isham
Helen Isham
m Helen G" Fairbank
Rosalie Sturges ~
(187 3-1943)
m Hubbard Carpenter
~
Frank Sturges
(1842-1917)
m Janette Lee
Mary Isham Prentice
/!!!..Henry H. Porter Jr
(1834-1912)
m Eliz. Curtis Greene
Albert Sturges
(1865-1882)
Clara D. Sturges
(1878-19 )
••
Geo. Benj . Carpenter
Wallace D. Sturges
(1863-1887)
-
II
I
Kate Benton Sturges
(1869-1955)
He len Sturges
(1876-19 )
m Arthur DuBois
Winthrop Rockefeller
m Alta Rockefeller
Chas . B. Sturges
(1868)
Ethel Sturges
(1866-19 )
Albert Sturges
(1835-1900)
!
Rose Buckingham
(18 -1918)
!"_ Harry G. Selfridge
Benton Sturges
(1866-1944)
Nelson A. Rockefeller
John D. Rockefeller Jr.
m Abby Greene Aldrich
Anna S. Buckingham
(1846-1922)
m Frank R. Chandler
Lucy M. Buckingham
(1870-1920)
Edith Rockefeller
~ Harold F . McCormick
Laurance Rockefeller
Benj. H. Buckingham
m Martha Potwin
Kate Sturges Buckingham
(1858-1937)
Sarah Sturges
(1826-1892)
m Chas. W. Potwin
John D. Rockefeller
(1839-1937)
m Laura Spelman
.....
Clarence Buckingham
(1854-1913
m Abra Cantril!
Alta Rockefeller
m Ezra P. Prentice
.
George A. Carpenter
!"_Harriet Isham ~~
Hubbard Carpenter
(1874-1953)
~ Rosalie Sturges
John Alden Carpenter
m 1) Rue Winterbotham
- 2) Ellen (Waller) Borden
·~
Katherine Isham
m Arthur L. Farwell
Ralph Isham Jr.
!"_Lucy Keep
Mary A. Porter
Harriet Isham
m George A. Carpenter
G:orge Snow Isham
(1859-1926)
m Katherine Porter
I
S. Prentice Porter
/1
Henry H. Porter
George F. Porter
(1881-1927)
m Mirna DeManziarly